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  #1  
Old 07-23-2006, 09:14 AM
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tow hooks as jacking points

Is it ok to use the tow hooks when jacking up the car? And then when its in the air just put the stands in the normal spots?
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  #2  
Old 07-23-2006, 10:04 AM
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I wouldn't. I'd jack up the rear first (using the diff as your jack point) and put two jack stands under the rear swaybar frame mounts. Then I'd jack on the front of the car (engine crossmember?) and just use the jack to hold the car up.
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(8/23/07-Present) 1995 Subaru SVX LSi (197k) Polo Green (#1102) 03/95
Mods: DDM Tuning 4500k 35w Low Beam HID, 100w H3 Bulbs, Extra Ground Cables, 15 minute $12.96 mod,
svxfiles designed transmission mount (), sporting a "new" tail light bar,
silver BBS rims, custom power steering cooler (one that doesn't dump ATF constantly), new negative lead cable, no more third or fourth gear
(1977-Present) 1977 Chevrolet Corvette (81k) Silver
(12/01/2011-Present) 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT (97k)
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  #3  
Old 07-23-2006, 10:56 AM
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Reason I'm asking is because the jack that I have...the handle isn't long enough for me to put the jack under the car too much and get the car lifted...I originally wanted to use the subframe. I was just looking for other ways. The little indent in the rail on each side of the car is where you place the stands right? That can also be used to jack the car up?
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  #4  
Old 07-23-2006, 11:10 AM
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Manarius Manarius is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b on demand
Reason I'm asking is because the jack that I have...the handle isn't long enough for me to put the jack under the car too much and get the car lifted...I originally wanted to use the subframe. I was just looking for other ways. The little indent in the rail on each side of the car is where you place the stands right? That can also be used to jack the car up?
I guess you could. Just put a piece of wood or something on the top of the jack so that you don't knick up your body work or bend the metal flange around the bottom of the car.
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-Jason
(8/23/07-Present) 1995 Subaru SVX LSi (197k) Polo Green (#1102) 03/95
Mods: DDM Tuning 4500k 35w Low Beam HID, 100w H3 Bulbs, Extra Ground Cables, 15 minute $12.96 mod,
svxfiles designed transmission mount (), sporting a "new" tail light bar,
silver BBS rims, custom power steering cooler (one that doesn't dump ATF constantly), new negative lead cable, no more third or fourth gear
(1977-Present) 1977 Chevrolet Corvette (81k) Silver
(12/01/2011-Present) 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT (97k)
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  #5  
Old 07-23-2006, 12:48 PM
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NO! Tow hooks are not designed for that.
I'll go find the jacking thread, the swaybar mounts are also not a good place.
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  #6  
Old 07-23-2006, 12:51 PM
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Here are two...
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...ht=jack+points
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...ht=jack+points

Some people say tow hooks are okay, It just doesn't seem safe to me

What type of jack are you using anyway? The first jack I ever bought and still use is the worst ever, and it only has like a 1 ft handle and that is still plenty.
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ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic
Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165

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Last edited by Speedklix; 07-23-2006 at 12:55 PM.
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  #7  
Old 07-23-2006, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedklix
NO! Tow hooks are not designed for that.
I'll go find the jacking thread, the swaybar mounts are also not a good place.
I wasn't saying to jack on the swaybar mounts, but they seem to be very useful for placement of jackstands.
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-Jason
(8/23/07-Present) 1995 Subaru SVX LSi (197k) Polo Green (#1102) 03/95
Mods: DDM Tuning 4500k 35w Low Beam HID, 100w H3 Bulbs, Extra Ground Cables, 15 minute $12.96 mod,
svxfiles designed transmission mount (), sporting a "new" tail light bar,
silver BBS rims, custom power steering cooler (one that doesn't dump ATF constantly), new negative lead cable, no more third or fourth gear
(1977-Present) 1977 Chevrolet Corvette (81k) Silver
(12/01/2011-Present) 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT (97k)
I have a bad feeling about this.
-Obi Wan Kenobi
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  #8  
Old 07-23-2006, 04:37 PM
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I'm using a 2 ton floor jack from sears. I tried to shove the jack under the car and tried to use the subframe to jack it up but you cant pump the handle because it keeps hitting the bumper.
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  #9  
Old 07-23-2006, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b on demand
I'm using a 2 ton floor jack from sears. I tried to shove the jack under the car and tried to use the subframe to jack it up but you cant pump the handle because it keeps hitting the bumper.
I have a 2 ton from Sears as well . If you turn the handle all the way to the right and just crank really shallow cranks, you will probably make some progess. Or, you could get creative on where you place the handle so that you have some clearance. I know that my mom's grand prix has a very low front, and I have to get creative to jack that car up.
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(8/23/07-Present) 1995 Subaru SVX LSi (197k) Polo Green (#1102) 03/95
Mods: DDM Tuning 4500k 35w Low Beam HID, 100w H3 Bulbs, Extra Ground Cables, 15 minute $12.96 mod,
svxfiles designed transmission mount (), sporting a "new" tail light bar,
silver BBS rims, custom power steering cooler (one that doesn't dump ATF constantly), new negative lead cable, no more third or fourth gear
(1977-Present) 1977 Chevrolet Corvette (81k) Silver
(12/01/2011-Present) 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT (97k)
I have a bad feeling about this.
-Obi Wan Kenobi
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  #10  
Old 07-23-2006, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b on demand
Reason I'm asking is because the jack that I have...the handle isn't long enough for me to put the jack under the car too much and get the car lifted...I originally wanted to use the subframe. I was just looking for other ways. The little indent in the rail on each side of the car is where you place the stands right? That can also be used to jack the car up?
The indent in the rail is there for the OEM jack. This vertical welded seam is very stiff vertically as you will appreciate. Make a saw cut in a piece of hefty timber a foot or so long to fit the seam, this will spread the load and you can then safely use any jack anywhere along this seam, but the ends are to be preferred. If you wish to lift the whole side of the car at the centre point away from the door pillars, obviously the longer and stronger the timber the better.

A piece of flat timber in between jack or stand and any jacking point is always a good idea. The soft material provides good grip/friction and prevents loading over a small point, as occurs with a hard to hard contact. N.B. A block with a deep cross section could tip over if the contact areas are small or the jack head pivots.

Sorry if I am appearing to tell how to suck eggs, but have included detail as I do not wish to feel responsible for lack of same, in an issue involving safety.
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  #11  
Old 07-23-2006, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b on demand
Reason I'm asking is because the jack that I have...the handle isn't long enough for me to put the jack under the car too much and get the car lifted...I originally wanted to use the subframe. I was just looking for other ways. The little indent in the rail on each side of the car is where you place the stands right? That can also be used to jack the car up?
The indent in the rail is there for the OEM jack. This vertical welded seam is very stiff vertically as you will appreciate. Make a saw cut in a piece of hefty timber a foot or so long to fit the seam, this will spread the load and you can then safely use any jack anywhere along this seam, but the ends are to be preferred. If you wish to lift the whole side of the car at the centre point away from the door pillars, obviously the longer and stronger the timber the better.

A piece of flat timber in between jack or stand and any jacking point is always a good idea. The soft material provides good grip/friction and prevents loading over a small point, as occurs with a hard to hard contact. N.B. A block with a deep cross section could tip over if the contact areas are small or the jack head pivots.

Sorry if I am appearing to tell how to suck eggs, but have included detail as I do not wish to feel responsible for lack of same, in an issue involving safety.
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  #12  
Old 07-23-2006, 09:00 PM
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If you are just lifting the front, use ramps (unless you are working on the wheels). You can also use jackstands and a chock behind the rear wheels for safety. You can also try using some pieces of lumber (2x8 etc.) under the front wheels to raise it up a little so the garage jack can clear the bumper.

Last edited by dannmarr; 07-23-2006 at 09:38 PM.
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  #13  
Old 07-23-2006, 09:34 PM
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Those small jacks you can ussually turn the handle upsidedown, just ignore the rib on the end. or you could get a small pipe to use instead and just keep the original to release the pressure. If you have a larger prybar around or a rachet with a large enough handle, you could try that too. Hope that helps a little.

My small jack used to lift the SVX front end just fine if I turn the handle over. Now in most situations i just pump it, no handle at all, until it lifts about an inch then use the handle for the real lifting.
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ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic
Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165

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  #14  
Old 07-23-2006, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manarius
I wouldn't. I'd jack up the rear first (using the diff as your jack point) and put two jack stands under the rear swaybar frame mounts. Then I'd jack on the front of the car (engine crossmember?) and just use the jack to hold the car up.
You're kidding, right? Please tell me you don't actually get under a car supported only by a jack.

Either way, I want to make one thing clear: do not get under a car supported by a jack. Make sure that anything propped up (front, back, both, whatever) has a stand under it.
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  #15  
Old 07-23-2006, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Pockets
You're kidding, right? Please tell me you don't actually get under a car supported only by a jack.

Either way, I want to make one thing clear: do not get under a car supported by a jack. Make sure that anything propped up (front, back, both, whatever) has a stand under it.
Uhh..not usually. I only use the aforementioned method when swapping tires. Although, occasionally I pop under there to look at something.

I know you're not supposed to do that, but I bet more cars have fallen off of 'real' lifts than off of floor jacks (by either failing or rocking).
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(8/23/07-Present) 1995 Subaru SVX LSi (197k) Polo Green (#1102) 03/95
Mods: DDM Tuning 4500k 35w Low Beam HID, 100w H3 Bulbs, Extra Ground Cables, 15 minute $12.96 mod,
svxfiles designed transmission mount (), sporting a "new" tail light bar,
silver BBS rims, custom power steering cooler (one that doesn't dump ATF constantly), new negative lead cable, no more third or fourth gear
(1977-Present) 1977 Chevrolet Corvette (81k) Silver
(12/01/2011-Present) 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT (97k)
I have a bad feeling about this.
-Obi Wan Kenobi
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