Alignment specs for the SVX

[Chiketkd]

Looking for someone with a service manual to post the alignment specs for an awd SVX - camber, caster & toe. I scheduled an appointment today with my local tire shop to have a 4 wheel alignment done on Friday morning at 8am.

Thanks!

-Chike

[freak customs]

SVX
Camber (1)
Front ................... -0.42 ............ -1.17 To 0.33
Rear .................... -0.67 ............ -1.42 To 0.08
Caster (1) ............... 4.83 .............. 4.08 To 5.58
Toe-In (2)
Front ................... 0 (0) ............ -0.12 To 0.12
(-3 To 3)
Rear ................... 0 (0) ............. -0.12 To 0.12
(-3 To 3)
Toe-In (1)
Front ..................... 0 .............. -0.24 To 0.24
Rear ...................... 0 .............. -0.24 To 0.24

[Chiketkd]

Thanks for the quick response! I was talking with Svxfiles tonight and he mentioned that you definitely want to make sure they zero-out toe front & rear on an awd car. The above factory specs confirm that...

My rear passenger-side tire seems to have a good deal of toe-in which is causing the plastic cover in my wheel housing to rub aginst the inside of that tire in sharp left hand turns. Luckily the rubbing isn't that bad, and I should be able to make it to the Fall before needing to replace this set of summer tires.

-Chike

[mbtoloczko]

You could try to get a little extra grip in the front by making the front wheel camber a little more negative than the rear wheels. BTW, do you have camber bolts installed at the rear?

[SVXRide]

Chike,
The front will handle up to -1.5 degrees of camber with the stock bolts. As Mychailo has noted, you'll have to add aftermarket camber bolts to get any camber adjustment in the rear. Zero toe front and rear is a good for straightline stability and helps keep tire wear to a minimum.
-Bill

[nordique14]

Originally Posted by freak customs

SVX
Camber (1)
Front ................... -0.42 ............ -1.17 To 0.33
Rear .................... -0.67 ............ -1.42 To 0.08

Am I reading this right were the acceptable front camber range is -1.17 to 0.33? I can't imagine having positive camber on a car. If you go to a crappy alignment place, be careful that the numbers balance side to side. I have heard of (very crappy) places that will make sure each wheel is in spec, but don't car about balancing out the car side to side. Which means you can end up with 0.33 on one side and -1.17 on the other and still be "in spec". I would hate to drive that car.

If you drive insanely around the corners go with more negative camber and more caster. That will give you better grip in the corners and prevent you from rolling onto the sidewall. Of course, more negative caster will wear out the inside tread faster if you do a lot of highway driving. I need to get an alignment myself soon. If the car can handle -1.5 with the stock bolts, that's what I'm going to do.

-Matt

[mbtoloczko]

Originally Posted by nordique14

...

If you drive insanely around the corners go with more negative camber and more caster...

-Matt

Caster is not meant to be adjustable on the SVX. The only way to adjust it is to remove the front struts and slot the strut mounting holes in the strut tower. Has to be done before the car goes into an alignment shop. On an SVX at OEM ride height, its not necessary to adjust the caster. The SVX already has a generous amount of caster. If the front of the car is lowered, then it might be worth doing to get back some of the caster that is lost by lowering the front of the car.

[SVXRide]

Yes, the front bolts will provide -1.5 degrees of camber
Yes, definitely go to a shop that has an experienced alignment mechanic - I actually found one that is a true artist - he adjusts each wheel separately and actually goes back and forth between the front and rear wheels to make sure everything is perfect (camber, caster, and toe). When I first started autocrossing I tried going to a local tire place and had no idea how bad a job they had done until I took the car to the guy I use now and he showed me what the "before" setting were (example = -1.0 degrees of camber was -1.2 on one wheel and +.2 degrees on the other!!).
-Bill

[benebob]

Originally Posted by SVXRide

Yes, the front bolts will provide -1.5 degrees of camber
Yes, definitely go to a shop that has an experienced alignment mechanic - I actually found one that is a true artist - he adjusts each wheel separately and actually goes back and forth between the front and rear wheels to make sure everything is perfect (camber, caster, and toe). When I first started autocrossing I tried going to a local tire place and had no idea how bad a job they had done until I took the car to the guy I use now and he showed me what the "before" setting were (example = -1.0 degrees of camber was -1.2 on one wheel and +.2 degrees on the other!!).
-Bill

What? You don't do it yourself? Just turn that front camber bolt untill you have the bottom sticking out as far as it will. I'm actually thinking of lowering the front again, just to increase the neg camber a bit.
Since the back won't come around at all maybe we can get the front to come up to speed.

[Chiketkd]

Originally Posted by mbtoloczko

You could try to get a little extra grip in the front by making the front wheel camber a little more negative than the rear wheels. BTW, do you have camber bolts installed at the rear?

Mychailo,

No camber bolts installed on the rear at this time. Due to unexpected expenses of replacing both rear wheel bearings, a transmission and buying a house, it doesn't look like I'll be autoXing my car this season - only drag racing.

-Chike

P.S. I'll have them dial in some extra -ve camber in the front (probably -1.0??) and zero out the toe front & rear. Thanks for the input guys! :-)

[mbtoloczko]

The aftermarket camber bolts are very inexpensive. Should be able to find a set for less than $30.

[SVXRide]

Originally Posted by benebob

What? You don't do it yourself? Just turn that front camber bolt untill you have the bottom sticking out as far as it will. I'm actually thinking of lowering the front again, just to increase the neg camber a bit.
Since the back won't come around at all maybe we can get the front to come up to speed.

-Bill

[Chiketkd]

Originally Posted by mbtoloczko

The aftermarket camber bolts are very inexpensive. Should be able to find a set for less than $30.

Hmmm...I'll see if they have any. I won't be able to order any on-line and get them by Friday am at this point.

-Chike

[newsvx]

Originally Posted by Chiketkd

Hmmm...I'll see if they have any. I won't be able to order any on-line and get them by Friday am at this point.

-Chike

Chike,
A good alignment shop will have these bolts. Another point too, as SVXRIDE mentioned. A good alignment shop will also provide you a before and after spec on the alignment.

Also, more negative camber will wear on the inside of the tire tread. I current have 1.5 degees (for autocross) and plan to go back to the Subaru spec, as the tires are now worn VERY badly (cupped on the inside edge) on the inside. And I have not driven that much on the street - at autocross, of course, there are the race tires. So my recommendation (if you drive on the street a significant bit) is to go with the factory spec, which again, a good shop will have on file.
Good luck!!

Harry

[Chiketkd]

Originally Posted by newsvx

Chike,
A good alignment shop will have these bolts. Another point too, as SVXRIDE mentioned. A good alignment shop will also provide you a before and after spec on the alignment.

Also, more negative camber will wear on the inside of the tire tread. I current have 1.5 degees (for autocross) and plan to go back to the Subaru spec, as the tires are now worn VERY badly (cupped on the inside edge) on the inside. And I have not driven that much on the street - at autocross, of course, there are the race tires. So my recommendation (if you drive on the street a significant bit) is to go with the factory spec, which again, a good shop will have on file.
Good luck!!

Harry

Great advice. Thanks Harry!

-Chike