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#1
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O.K., I'm about to get serious here...
...and start actually looking for a car. I know the trannys suck. Rotors/brakes, drive axles, wheel bearings, etc. are small problems for me. I remember what a pain the alarm system was. What I get concerned about is 'dealer only' parts and rust.
Questions: Are there any typical rust areas in these cars to watch out for? Body leaks? Door/window seals? ECU/TCU problems? Sensors? Wiring? Climate controls? Any parts that seem to be way out of line in price? BTW - at most places I've worked at around the country drive axles typically cost the shop $55 - $60. Normally takes a decent tech 15 - 20 minutes to change one. Maybe we should make a check-off list of items for each year and cost to repair and put in a database. Anybody got a few extra minutes on their hands? If anyone has an idea of something to watch for that I didn't think of please make a note of it. Currently I'm thinking of limiting my search to southern and western states (no rust.) If it turns out that rust isn't a problem with these cars I may consider stretching search area to the east also. Tanx in advance, Beav |
#2
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beav.
i have never heard any complaints of rust on the svx. the only major components that i have ever had problems with are rear wheel bearings, tranny, cv axles, alternator, teflon guide piece on automatic window, water pump, brakes, struts, camshaft seals (not replaced when my timing belt was changed), air conditioner refrigerant seal, idle air control valve, tranny mount, and really that is it.
i am sure every svx has its quirks. besides the tranny everything else has been some what reasonable. i paid a lot to get the window guide piece fixed and the camshaft seals because of the labor involved. the 60,000 and 120,000 miles services are expensive because to the timing belt change. they way i look at is every sports car is expensive so it really comes down to if you love the car or not. i have put up with this cars problems because i can not imagine driving anything else. that is the bottomline.
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1994 SVX, true dual Magnaflow exhaust, K&N filter, 17" Enkei RS6 wheels, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 225/45/17 rubber, zinc plated cross-drilled rotors with yellow painted brake calipers. B&M tranny cooler rated at 19,000 GVW. GC springs and Koni strut inserts installed and the car is lowered two inches all the way around!! "Too much fun to drive!" |
#3
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Hmmm...
Maybe I should investigate prices on those few parts then and see what I can come up with.
Barring the a/t and the wheel bearings, struts and a/c the repairs really aren't that difficult. Obviously the first thing I'll have to do is get a car first but I'd be happy to do some how-to stuff with pics. Just give me some time, I'm still doing my Uncle Joe impersonation... |
#4
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Re: O.K., I'm about to get serious here...
Quote:
Okay, now for the exception, because there is always an exception. If an SVX is involved in an accident, and the damaged sheetmetal is straightened, the rust inhibitor can be compromised. Example? My car. I have a few paint bubbles starting. In order to restore the car, including the rust inhibitor, to its original condition, I'm looking into having the entire quarter panel replaced with a new one. So, for the answer I should have provided, instead of the above, look below: Rust is not a problem on the SVX.
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2005 RX-8 Grand Touring 2005 Outback 2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 wagon END OF LINE |
#5
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I pretty much echo what Leo said. I have never heard ANY complaints about rust on the SVX, even from all the members in "salt country". In fact, I have heard the Subaru went to excessive measures with the SVX to prevent rust. Someone with the Road and Track Guide could probably get more in depth on that. I guess looking to the West and South couldn't hurt if you are willing to do that though.
As for everything else, you already know the big ones, tranny and wheel bearings. Most of those other things you listed I've never even seen mentioned on this site before as problems. I'm sure everyone will chime in here with their own advice and problem list. Good luck! Here's my list of past problems to go with Leo's - One replaced tranny under warranty (meaning that it is the 2nd replacement ) Right rear wheel bearing replaced. That's it. Previous owner had 1st tranny replacement done and also a new radiator put in. That's all the records show. FYI, my car is a 92 LSL with 132,000 miles and been in the Seattle area all its life.
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Troy 1992 SVX LSL "Serenity" 250,000 miles! I don't care, I'm still free, You can't take the sky from me... |
#6
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Rust?
I have seen rust on my SVX on 5 different places. On every rotor -- that's 4 places and on my driver side door where the plastic meets with the metal body -- There was a tiny dent and a small rust -- which I have to take care of.
If you are in my area, I'll take you go SVX shopping. I love car shopping and making the dealers/owners feel bad about items they have no clue about. Lwin
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Lwin M. Maung (Member # 147) Current SVX: • NONE Previous SVXes: •1994 LE Barcelona Red 107k • 1992 LS-L Pearl White 143k • 1994 LSi Bordeaux Pearl 220k • 1992 LS-L Ebony Pearl 184k • 1992 LS-L Liquid Silver 145k • 1992 LS-L Liquid Silver 102k • 1992 LS-L Ebony Pearl 123k Other current cars:•2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Black If at first you don't succeed, CHEAT!
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#7
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alright beav.....
now you are fully aware of the problems you will face as an svx owner. now get out there and buy one!! you know although we have tranny problems we are not the only ones.......ask 3000gt owners. i think with a good aftermarket tranny cooler installed the life of your tranny will be greatly extended. (but i bet you already knew that so why am i even taking the time to write it....ok now i am rambling....good bye!)
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1994 SVX, true dual Magnaflow exhaust, K&N filter, 17" Enkei RS6 wheels, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 225/45/17 rubber, zinc plated cross-drilled rotors with yellow painted brake calipers. B&M tranny cooler rated at 19,000 GVW. GC springs and Koni strut inserts installed and the car is lowered two inches all the way around!! "Too much fun to drive!" |
#8
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Quote:
have. Reason #1 The replacement quarter panel might not be zinc plated. Reason #2 Cutting off and preparing the surrounding metal to weld on the new quarter panel will remove more of the plating and possibly cause rust to appear at more places. My 2 cents
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Mike 92 LSL Teal 103k 00 RS 2.5 Silverthorn Metallic 36k 68 Chevy Camaro 07 Forester XT Sport |
#9
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Quote:
Still, it makes me wonder. I'm talking to a guy who is parting out his SVX and owns a yard. He's looking into having the panel cut out for me, but neither of us know what that will do to the all-important zinc plating. So I'm still working on it.
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2005 RX-8 Grand Touring 2005 Outback 2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 wagon END OF LINE |
#10
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I had the misfortune of having a lr quarter mangled years ago and I insisted that it was repaired rather than replaced. It's kinda like surgery, the least intrusive method is generally the better. Then again, not being a professional body man I would seek out his opinion...
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#11
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<<but I have also been working on the assumption that Subaru replacement panels have the same rust-inhibiting qualities that the original car did>>
Bad Assumption. The car is galvanized as an entire assembly prior to painting. Replacement panels are hot dipped in a self etching primer that is supposed to keep them from rusting during storage and shipping. However, most good body shops will seal the entire weld area and new panel in epoxy prior to painting. The really good shops will spray the hidden part of the repair with a zinc rich, weld-through rust proofer before they weld on the new panel. The zinc rich primer if alowed to cure, supposedly gives the backside of the panel and backside of weld area a coating as good as the original zinc plating. bargain shops and insurance company approved shops will weld on, wipe down, spray, and send it down the road. Doug
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1992 LS Touring (6/91) - Currently undergoing a five speed swap Black over Claret with spoiler; 235,000 miles; Mods: 2002 Legacy 5 speed, ACT Pressure Plate, Excedy Clutch, Short Throw Shifter, Aussie Powerchip 1992 LS Touring (6/91) Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler 1994 LSi (4/93) Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction. 1969 Mustang GT Convertible 1970 Mustang Convertible 2000 Ford Excursion Sola lingua bona est lingua mortua. My Locker |
#12
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Hi Beav,
I have seen rust in the door checker. The rear upper strut mount is a real road dirt collector and these might rust out after 8 years in the salt belt. The emergency brake cable bracket on my car looks rusty and the tranny mount has some rust on it near the ends. Body panels as stated above do not rust. The insides of my doors look brand new. Not bad for a 8 1/2 year old car! They also put bees wax inside the frame. The service manual has a whole section on the rust proofing that was done: Galvanized Sheet Metal Application Cation Electrocoating Sealer and adhesive application Polyvinyl Chloride Aopplication Anti Chip coatingHot wax application Rust proof parts (Plastic side panels) Anti-rust Wax Application(bottom of car) It goes from page 11 to 38 in the SVXSM section 5-1. Everytime I look at this I realize how much money they must have lost to make these cars. With the extensive rust proofing and elves, the car is more than "Priceless" |
#13
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If your looking I am selling. Need to put my money into my flight tranning. God knows if it wasent for needing the money for school I would keep her.
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#14
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Looks another AeroTech candidate. Just think of the international friends you could make if you went to Embry-Riddle or Flight Safety... I used to live in capitol hill, Writer's Center, then near 36 & I-25 and in Evergreen. My daughter graduated HS in Broomfield several years ago.
Enough home-townin'. I'll be more active in looking around in early December. Kinda thinking that waiting to see how I handle going back to work will be the prudent thing to do. If that works out then I'll be on it. I did see Phil Long had a red one for sale until yesterday. Ain't the internet great? Beav Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time. I think I've forgotten this before. |
#15
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Strut mount?
Are you referring to the portion of the body that the strut mount bolts to or the strut mount itself? If you mean the body of the car that would certainly suck to have it punch through from rust.
I remember when punks would run the air shocks on their Camaros all the way up and punch the shocks through the trunk...heheheh...no great loss there though Beav |
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