Rear wheel bearing install

[TomsSVX]

I am replacing my rear wheel bearings this weekend and need some answers

1. Torque specs for spindle nut

2. Torque specs for any other nuts/bolts removed(I think its an arm or something)

3. any other pointers i will need to know

Thnx guys
tom

[lanciat]

Torque Specs are as follows:

for rear suspension: in Ft Lbs (N m)
Axle Nut .......................................... 123-152 (167-206)
Crossmember Support Bolt ............. 33-54 (44-74)
Crossmember-To-Body Bolt ............. 94-116 (127-157)
Differential-To-Crossmember Bolt.... 94-116 (127-157)
Lateral Link
Inner Bolt ..................................... 61-83 (83-113)
Outer Bolt .................................... 72-101 (98-137)
Rear Stabilizer Link Nut .................... 10-19 (14-25)
Strut Flange Bolt .............................. 98-127 (132-172)
Strut Mount Nut ............................... 10-17 (14-24)
Strut Piston Rod Lock Nut ................ 36-51 (49-69)
Trailing Link Bolt .............................. 101-130 (137-177)
Trailing Link Bushing Bolt ................. 80-101 (108-137)


Having just done my rear bearings, I had to remove both the lateral link bolt (19 mm) and lower trailing arm bolt (17 mm) in order to be able to swing the bearing housing out enough to be able to remove the drive shaft from the bearing housing. You might be able to get away with just the lateral link bolt if you have someone helping you to swing the housing out/remove the drive shaft (or if you are stronger than I ).

All of this assumes that you are going to use a Hub Tamer tool to remove and install the bearings without removing the bearing housing completely from the car. If you are going to remove the housing completely and remove/install bearings with a shop press, just reference the torque specs above in putting everything back together.

There are several descriptions of the process in the "How To" folders on the web site. You'll also find many helpful prior threads on this subject by seaching the Technical Q & A forum of this web site.

I removed all of the packing grease on the new bearings using an aerosol elctrical parts cleaner that I picked up at my local Pep Boys (two cans needed). I then packed the clean bearings by hand using Mobil 1 synthetic bearing grease. Other forum members have used/recommended other grease types.

Remember that bearings can only be removed toward the "outside" of the car (i.e., you're pushing them from the "interior" side of the bearing housing of the car to the "exterior" side of the bearing housing), and that new bearings muct be installed from the "outside" of the car (i.e., you're pushing them from the "exterior" side of the bearing housing to the "interior" side of the bearing housing). Reason: there is a raised ring cast into the "interior" side of the bearing housing to stop lateral bearing travel toward the "interior" of the car. The bearing is held in place on the "exterior" side of the bearing housing by a snap ring.

Good luck!

Joe Fillip
Swarthmore, PA
'95 L AWD ("The Wayback Machine")

[mbtoloczko]

Just a quick comment to go along with Joe's advice: The roller bearing retainers are made from plastic, and electronic parts cleaner is a good item to use to remove the grease from the bearing itself because its safer on plastic than other aerosol style degreasers. Make sure you remove all the grease and allow plenty of time for the degreaser to completely evaporate.

[TomsSVX]

awsome. i am removing the whole hub so i can use a shop press so all the torque specs are greatly apreciated. Also the bit about the clean and which side to press from and to will help greatly. Thank you so much for your info

[TomsSVX]

awsome. thanks to all your help i was able to get wheel bearings done in a couple of hours. thanks again
Tom

[UT_SVX]

Originally posted by tomssvx
awsome. i am removing the whole hub so i can use a shop press so all the torque specs are greatly apreciated. Also the bit about the clean and which side to press from and to will help greatly. Thank you so much for your info

I am going to remove my hubs to do my bearings also, but was wondering how you unhooked the ABS sensor? I was looking and didn't find any connectors or whatever. Thanks Darren

[lanciat]

It's bolted into the leading edge (i.e., towards the front of the car) of the hub backing plate. 12 mm bolt, I believe. With the wheel off, look behind the backing plate and you're certain to see it.

Accululated rust may make it difficult to remove. Search prior threads on this forum for tricks on removing a rusted sensor.

[mbtoloczko]

A sharp low-angle chisel between the bolt tab on the ABS sensor and the hub backing plate works well. Tap in the chisel little-by-little from several different angles. Pre-soak the sensor with PB Blaster.

[UT_SVX]

Thanks all got it done...........Darren