idle control motor

What and where is the idle control motor ? I cleaned the throttle body sensor (i think that is what i cleaned) On rear of TB on drivers side. Now i see in another post about a idle control motor. Still rough idle. I pulled code this morning and got 21- 34- and 23. I know that the temp sensor is 21. and 34 is EGR solenoid but what is 23? Thanks....Jim

[svx_commuter]

The idle control motor (solenoid) opens and closes the idle air valve (IAR). This allows air to by pass the throttle plates when they are closed. The IAR controls the air entering the engine. It is sort of under the intake manifold on the right side (Px usa). There is a large black hose that goes to it from the larger intake pipe between the air filter and TB. Make sure all the hoses are connected. Have you tried injector cleaner and dry gas if you live in a cold place?

Originally posted by svx_commuter
The idle control motor (solenoid) opens and closes the idle air valve (IAR). This allows air to by pass the throttle plates when they are closed. The IAR controls the air entering the engine. It is sort of under the intake manifold on the right side (Px usa). There is a large black hose that goes to it from the larger intake pipe between the air filter and TB. Make sure all the hoses are connected. Have you tried injector cleaner and dry gas if you live in a cold place?

Yes, i have tried cleaner, and i live in a warm dry area.( Mesa, Az ). I am going to add octane booost and see what happens... Thanks for the help.... Jim

[Reaper450128]

Depending on how mechanically capable you are, you could try doing what I did:

1. Dissasemble and remove the intake from the TBs
2. Take off the TBs, being careful to unplug the wiring harness from the solenoid on the bottom.
3. VERY IMPORTANT: make very accurate and distinct marks on the IAV casing and the screws on the solenoid so you can put it back on with the EXACT same orientation it originally had (trust me, tuning it is very annoying, my idle still isn't quite perfect.
4. Remove the solenoid from the IAV. Its sitting on a magnetized shaft coming out of the IAV.
5. Remove the IAV from the TBs.

Once all this is apart, you can see the valve on the bottom of the IAV. Try turning the shaft, see how hard it is to turn (it should be entirely free moving, mine wasn't). If its sticking, a good dose of PB Blaster inside the valve and on the shaft should fix it right up. It may take a few mintues to break down any rust and gunk thats making the valve stick. If you feel so inclined, now is a good time to clean all the EGR by-products (the black stuff) inside the TBs and such. For example, in case you can't tell, the valve plate on the IAV is actually supposed to be green, mine was almost entirely black. After you've done all you want in there, put the solenoid back on the shaft and try turning it. The valve should open and close fairly smoothly. If not, there's still crap making it stick that needs to be cleaned up. When all is moving smoothly again, its time to check the solenoid itself. Look in this file for the test procedure for the BACV (IAV), and make sure you're looking at the one for the Legacy/SVX. If all checks out ok, put it all back together, making sure the solenoid is perfectly aligned again (the alignment of the solenoid sets the base idle by the amount of air the valve allows in, you can screw-up your idle entirely by moving it even a few degrees, as I found out the hard way). If all this doesn't clear your CE light, the solenoid may be bad, try replacing it.

[oab_au]

A very helpfull post, should be in the "how to" bin.

Harvey.

These pics of the IAV may also be helpful.

VERY IMPORTANT: make very accurate and distinct marks on the IAV casing and the screws on the solenoid so you can put it back on with the EXACT same orientation it originally had (trust me, tuning it is very annoying, my idle still isn't quite perfect.

Not sure what you mean. I'm pulling mine off tomorrow, so do you mean the 4 bolts that hold it to the TB ? Why would that matter ?

He's refering to these two screws that attach the solenoid. I would just leave it on unless you're wanting to hand turn the valve as you are cleaning it.

Understood and thanx webdevil...

How far should that green slot open up. I currently have my IAV in the fridge to get it cold and it stays only 1/2 open. Thus, I can see 1/2 green and 1/2 into the unit.
I put back and turned the key, but still no movement. The green valve does vibrate sllightly, but that's it. It is very free moving when I spin it around.

Also, there is NO bi-metal spring. Just a shaft out of the IAV that goes into the solenoid ? Somehow the magnetic field must turn that shaft... Not sure if its working or not but seems like it should turn someway.

[oab_au]

Originally posted by RobSVX
Understood and thanx webdevil...

How far should that green slot open up. I currently have my IAV in the fridge to get it cold and it stays only 1/2 open. Thus, I can see 1/2 green and 1/2 into the unit.
I put back and turned the key, but still no movement. The green valve does vibrate sllightly, but that's it. It is very free moving when I spin it around.

Also, there is NO bi-metal spring. Just a shaft out of the IAV that goes into the solenoid ? Somehow the magnetic field must turn that shaft... Not sure if its working or not but seems like it should turn someway.

You are confusing the two valves. The one that you are working on is the Idle air valve, it operates from the ECU signal to control the idle speed, to compensate for things like, the air con, and power steering, going on and off, to keep the idle speed right.

The other is the Auxilary Air valve with the bi-metal spring, that is temp controlled. It is under the LHS of the inlet manifold, it only works for the few minuits after a cold start, then it closes and the Idle air valve takes over, to control the idle speed.

The vibrating is the ECU controling the valve. It is a process that the ECU will take to stablise the idle speed. It should take a few starts to get to the right idle speed.

Harvey.

The other is the Auxilary Air valve with the bi-metal spring, that is temp controlled. It is under the LHS of the inlet manifold, it only works for the few minuits after a cold start, then it closes and the Idle air valve takes over, to control the idle speed.

Ohhh... Then I guess the IAC was wondering why it was sitting in the fridge

I think I found the Aux Air Valve. Its got a hose coming into the front, a hose in the rear, and an electrical connection towards the rear of the car that kindof sits on an extension. It sits under the next to the IRIS and doubt it can be obtained without pulling the Intake.

Any way to test the Aux Air Valve ? See if it works or not ?
My car craps out, when cold, if started unless I feather the gas pedal. Also, can be a hard cold start.


BTW: Thanks oab_au. I know there's lots of folks have assisted me, but I guess I got confused. I got it now...

[Landshark]

ok, got the IAC valve out. kind of a PITA, but not too bad. now, i guess i spray some carb cleaner liberally into the places marked with the green arrows, right?




now after reading oab_au's more detailed explaination, it seems my problem may be due to the *Auxiliary Air valve*. i guess my IAC and throttlebody could use a good cleaning anyway, but my trouble only occurs during the first few minutes of a cold start, pretty much as oab_au has stated.

if you don't mind, do you have a pic of the Aux Air valve and where its located? part #?

thanks to everyone for their help! greatly appreciated!

[oab_au]

I did post this somewhere.
Anyway, the easy way to test it is to pull the large hose off the black air box, in front of the throttle bodies, that runs to the valve under the manifold.
When the engine is cold, you should be able to blow through it, as it should be open. Then turn the ignition on, without starting the engine. After a few minuits the element should heat up to close the valve, and you should not be able to blow through it.

If it is sticking, you can spray some carb cleaner into the hose, while the engine is running. The spray probable has a hydocarbon in it, so the engine will run rough till it clears.

Harvey.

[Landshark]

Originally posted by oab_au
I did post this somewhere.
Anyway, the easy way to test it is to pull the large hose off the black air box, in front of the throttle bodies, that runs to the valve under the manifold.
When the engine is cold, you should be able to blow through it, as it should be open. Then turn the ignition on, without starting the engine. After a few minuits the element should heat up to close the valve, and you should not be able to blow through it.

If it is sticking, you can spray some carb cleaner into the hose, while the engine is running. The spray probable has a hydocarbon in it, so the engine will run rough till it clears.

Harvey.

thanks again, Harvey!
when i'm done and get a chance, i'll condense all this good info about the IAC and Aux Air valves that is scattered among several threads into one nice write-up - with much credit to you!

Anyway, the easy way to test it is to pull the large hose off the black air box, in front of the throttle bodies, that runs to the valve under the manifold. When the engine is cold, you should be able to blow through it, as it should be open. Then turn the ignition on, without starting the engine. After a few minuits the element should heat up to close the valve, and you should not be able to blow through it.

OK, got it ! See, I thought this was the test for the IAC that bolts under the TB. Mmmph. I hope its not bad because no way I'm getting that out of there.