HELP! 430 miles from home... - Page 4

SoCal LS-L · #46 03-05-2009, 08:44 AM

Ok sounds good, congratulations on the anniversary man. I was thinking of having it towed to lithia subaru and paying them the $109 to diag it, then fixing whatever they find myself

As far as their diag goes..... do they have specialized equipment that can help them pinpoint the problem? I keep hearing about the select monitor thing..... The other subaru specialists around here charge around $95 hour and say diags could be as much as 2 or 3 hours..... bleep that compared to the dealers $109..... I hitting desperation mode here.

Conn SVX · #47 03-05-2009, 09:24 AM

any luck getting it going. I am 3,000 miles away wish I could help. Mine did it but after doing a ( to the floor start ) like the old choke cars it started up.

SoCal LS-L · #48 03-05-2009, 09:34 AM

Ill try that this morning.... its wierd every morning it almost kicks over then sputters and then doesnt even do that again until the next morning..... Im yanking the crank pos sensors today.... the ECU is behind the pass kick panel right?? I want to check that too.

SoCal LS-L · #49 03-05-2009, 11:15 AM

So I pulled both my crankshaft sensors, and the wiring to them and the harness itself are extremely brittle. When removing the harness the wires actually cracked open exposing the wires. Also further back the insulation around the steel braiding has cracked off exposing the outer braid..... I would like to rewire the harness, but it looks like it is connected to a bunch of other stuff that branches off that line before going to the main harness pack, so I cant remove it. Im going to clean with brakekleen and wrap with electrical tape for now. The sensors themselves are covered in grease on the magnetic tip, so im going to clean that off and hopefully thats the trick. Crossing fingers since this is the last step before dealership and brokesville.

SoCal LS-L · #50 03-05-2009, 02:11 PM

Ok all the crank and cam sensors jump in voltage when metal is passed in front of them. I reinstalled everything in my engine.... and since its been sitting a day and a half instead of overnight, it almost started!!! I cranked and it sputtered to life for a couple of seconds this time before slowly dying out.

Am I correct in assuming that it may be flooded?? I mean would sitting overnight be enough time to for it to un-flood?? It seems the longer it sits, the better it fires the next time I try it.

What can I do now to get it running.... would starting fluid help it kick over and clear the fuel out of the combustion chambers?? I would rather not have to pull the plugs since that will be hell from where my car is parked.

Any tips on what this symptom is and how to clear it out will be appreciated!! Im so close!!

Conn SVX · #51 03-05-2009, 02:17 PM

Try the old hold it to the Floor trick what you got to loose.

oab_au · #52 03-05-2009, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoCal LS-L

Ok all the crank and cam sensors jump in voltage when metal is passed in front of them. I reinstalled everything in my engine.... and since its been sitting a day and a half instead of overnight, it almost started!!! I cranked and it sputtered to life for a couple of seconds this time before slowly dying out.

Am I correct in assuming that it may be flooded?? I mean would sitting overnight be enough time to for it to un-flood?? It seems the longer it sits, the better it fires the next time I try it.

What can I do now to get it running.... would starting fluid help it kick over and clear the fuel out of the combustion chambers?? I would rather not have to pull the plugs since that will be hell from where my car is parked.

Any tips on what this symptom is and how to clear it out will be appreciated!! Im so close!!

From what you are saying, it looks like it is loading up with fuel. when it did run for a second, did it blow a lot of black smoke out the back. If it was flooded it would.

Harvey.

SoCal LS-L · #53 03-05-2009, 03:47 PM

Starting fluid had ZERO effect.... the car is apparently getting no spark. Im going to try and go with Tom on this one.... even though my Cam sensor appeared to function normally.... im going to call Autozone and see what their return policy is on it....

SoCal LS-L · #54 03-05-2009, 07:50 PM

So the battery has been cranking slower, even fully charged...... I looked at the manufacture date.... 11/07, and it has a 2 year free replacement. the only place in Reno I could find with Energizer batteries was Pep Boys

I take it in to them reluctantly... and was helped by a chick with a mustache... who asked me to leave it for 40 minutes to charge fully (even though it was already) before load testing it. So I come back after an hour...she says "It tested good" I ask what the CCA was, she said she didnt know. So I asked for her to test it again... and after she gives some attitude about it, she tests again. Tests a 453 CCA, on a 600 CCA battery..... but since the display reads "good battery", she says no to the warranty.

WHAT!!!!! A battery thats 150 CCA below rating is BAD, correct?? I think she doesnt know how to use the tester, or couldnt see the buttons under her huge mustache.... so now tomorrow since I dont have a ride then I have to carry this battery by hand a mile and a half to retest when the manager is there. As if this whole ordeal wasnt frustrating enough..... Now since some he/she that was irritated I interrupted her texting w a friend (the store was empty), I get the attitude and the pleasure of marathon battery toting tomorrow before I can get my warranty honored

Are all the pep boys elsewhere like this...or is Reno special??

kwren · #55 03-05-2009, 08:52 PM

Won't help now but the next time you need a battery, go to Costco.

Keith

an959 · #56 03-05-2009, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoCal LS-L

What can I do now to get it running.... would starting fluid help it kick over and clear the fuel out of the combustion chambers?? I would rather not have to pull the plugs since that will be hell from where my car is parked.

Any tips on what this symptom is and how to clear it out will be appreciated!! Im so close!!

starting fluid is just gas + air. disconnect your fuel pump fuse and crank the engine. some time that will help if not too much gas in it.

SoCal LS-L · #57 03-05-2009, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by an959

starting fluid is just gas + air. disconnect your fuel pump fuse and crank the engine. some time that will help if not too much gas in it.

Ill try that, thanks. Im praying that it is the cam sensor like Tom says.... luckily Sperry will be coming out to let me try his before i drop the $139 for the autozone one. I really appreciate all the help you guys have offered, its really said a lot about the caliber of persons on this forum

sperry · #58 03-05-2009, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by an959

starting fluid is just gas + air. disconnect your fuel pump fuse and crank the engine. some time that will help if not too much gas in it.

I dunno about the svx, but newer subarus will clear a flood if you floor it while cranking the starter. Not only are you starting with the intake wide open, the ecu also turns off the injectors. It pretty quickly dries up any fuel in the cylinders.

stiguy · #59 03-05-2009, 10:48 PM

have you taken out a spark plug and ground it and see if it sparks??

SoCal LS-L · #60 03-06-2009, 09:38 AM

No I should though.... i was relying on the fact im getting fuel but the starting fluid doesnt kick it over to show im not getting spark after the momentary kick over. It starts roughly for a second then dies.... the cam sensor will be switched out today or tomorrow, if that doesnt work then its anyones guess..... and off to the dealer