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  #16  
Old 07-07-2007, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannmarr
CHECK ENGINE light with 16 flashes is injector #3, NOT the POWER light.

Oh? I'm certain it was the power light because it flashed POWER 16 times...Maybe theres something cock-eyed with the wiring that I don't know? Either way I don't know if I should take #3 out and replace it because I'm not totally familiar with it. How much should a new/used injector cost me?
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  #17  
Old 07-08-2007, 04:49 AM
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Whoa!

Power light 16 times means there's a transmission code waiting for you.

Good luck!
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  #18  
Old 07-08-2007, 06:57 AM
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I agree, it's a transmission code.
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  #19  
Old 07-08-2007, 10:18 AM
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Ok I found a diagram of codes that I'm going to try today

http://svx-iw.com/svxiw/article/?article=79
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  #20  
Old 07-08-2007, 06:41 PM
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look for

Look for a garage/mechanic who has terraclean or moto vac ..it's about $100

IT WORKS
Ian
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  #21  
Old 07-08-2007, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SVX
Look for a garage/mechanic who has terraclean or moto vac ..it's about $100

IT WORKS
Ian

What exactly is that? I'm guessing it cleans out the exhaust?
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  #22  
Old 07-09-2007, 05:15 AM
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I have had Motor Vac done on a few of my cars. I think it is “Snap-On” product. This is the most expensive in my area. The fuel supply line to the injector manifold is disconnected and a tee is added. Injector cleaner is pumped into the line and the injectors get cleaned with the engine running. Well I am not really sure how it’s done but it is similar to that. There are posts on this subject. It also cleans out the combustion chamber and gets rid of carbon build up. I think I paid about $300 for this. Every garage that does it charges the same price.

There is a $100 version were a vacuum line to the intake is disconnected and chemicals are added thru the port. Don't forget the intake on the SVX is split one for each side of the engine. Choose the correct vacuum line which the one from the Evaporative canister. I think some garages do this before the throttle plates also into the air intake hose.

Since I have tried all of this over the years I am not impressed and I think I will not spend money on it again.

An old time mechanic has since told me that carbon can be easily removed by spraying water into the running engine. That is how he does it. He gets a hand pump spray bottle and sprays it into the air intake. I am not sure about spraying over the MAF. The boiling water cleans out the carbon. I also have been told that anytime an engine with a bad head gasket leak is rebuilt the cylinder with leak is always clean. No carbon inside that baby! I have used a pressurized garden sprayer and distilled water into the intake after the throttle plates on a few engines.


I tend to follow this now
Injector cleaner every time the oil is changed
Good name brand gas burns cleaner and keep the combustion chamber cleaner Why? Less "stuff" in the gas that the refineries what to get rid of.
Stomping on the gas from about 30 to 80 on every fill-up Not only is it fun but it also blows out the carbon that builds up in the intake valves. You can see this in the exhaust if it is real bad. When it is real bad it will go away after a few more stomps.

The PVC should be checked or replaced if you don't know the condition of it. Beav has told us many time about how import this item is. Mine stay pretty clean. I have not found a stuck one yet. Checking the hoses from the valve covers and inside intake air hose before the throttle plates for black oily dirt will give you some idea. If you find a bunch of black sludgy oil all over in there it is a sign of too much engine blow by past the piston rings. This will usually gunk up the PCV. In this case a product "ring free" from Xcel.com Lubiron will be helpful.

Take care of that SVX,
John
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  #23  
Old 07-27-2007, 11:08 PM
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I bought "Guarenteed to Pass" today not knowing that it was the same thing redsvx posted about. From what he says it works so hopefully I'll get it re-inspected next weekend.(I'm going on vacation in NY for most of next week) I'll post again later.
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  #24  
Old 07-28-2007, 01:56 PM
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tips on using 'guaranteed to pass'

I put a full bottle in a half a tank of gas and drive about 10 miles or so.
I add it the day before I make the appointment.
make sure the car is good and hot when you take it in for the test and keep it running when you get there.
Good luck
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  #25  
Old 07-28-2007, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redsvx
tips on using 'guaranteed to pass'

I put a full bottle in a half a tank of gas and drive about 10 miles or so.
I add it the day before I make the appointment.
make sure the car is good and hot when you take it in for the test and keep it running when you get there.
Good luck
key is "good and hot" -- you want to make sure the cats are up to temp and the engine at full operating temp.
-Bill
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  #26  
Old 07-28-2007, 08:20 PM
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**Mental Note** Make sure car is Good and Hot before inspection


Why would i need to have everything up to temp and hot? Does that reduce the emissions too?
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  #27  
Old 07-28-2007, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94SubieSVX
**Mental Note** Make sure car is Good and Hot before inspection


Why would i need to have everything up to temp and hot? Does that reduce the emissions too?

The engine is going to be most efficient in terms of burning the gas-air mixture when it's fully warmed up. So, "yes" to your question
-Bill
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  #28  
Old 07-29-2007, 12:00 AM
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Oh...i never knew that, it's a kinda "duh" question lol
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  #29  
Old 07-29-2007, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Oh...i never knew that, it's a kinda "duh" question lol
That trick of keeping it running when you are waiting for the test is important too ... (especially if it's more than a 5 min. wait)
it keeps everything in there working non stop to clean the system
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  #30  
Old 08-01-2007, 06:04 PM
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I suppose I'll be the buzzkill here, and say that the emissions tests are there for a reason.

If you're reading > 200% legal limits on emissions, no CEL, and you drive it often, use name brand gasoline, keep up with oil changes, etc. then there's probably something wrong with your car that an additive will likely mask and not fix. Sometimes this can lead to costly repairs down the road.

I'd suggest going through the usual tuneup procedures, do a compression test, an air/fuel monitoring, ensure all your t's are crossed and i's are dotted.

Worst case scenario, bring it to a dealership. Most dealerships can troubleshoot the issue, fix it, and then run you an inspection test afterwards to pass.

-Sz
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