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  #16  
Old 11-27-2006, 12:33 AM
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UPDATE: Hoping for a cheap fix, I've run through some "fuel system cleaner" and replaced the fuel filter, but the problem persists. I've gone sthrough several tanks of gas, so have ruled out bad gas.

After installing an A/F gauge, I can see wild swings from 12.5 to 17.5 when the air is cold.


I am starting to think I have an intermittent fuel pump, but from previous forum posts that does not seem to be a part that breaks down easily....
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Last edited by htyei; 11-27-2006 at 12:35 AM.
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  #17  
Old 11-27-2006, 04:07 PM
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I would suspect the MAF, just as many others have said. I had a similar problem with stalling and it turned out to be the MAF.

Let us know what it turns out to be.
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  #18  
Old 11-27-2006, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htyei
UPDATE: Hoping for a cheap fix, I've run through some "fuel system cleaner" and replaced the fuel filter, but the problem persists. I've gone sthrough several tanks of gas, so have ruled out bad gas.

After installing an A/F gauge, I can see wild swings from 12.5 to 17.5 when the air is cold.


I am starting to think I have an intermittent fuel pump, but from previous forum posts that does not seem to be a part that breaks down easily....
Henry, I agree with Bill, and the other guys before. The MAF.

It is possibly caused by a "dry socket" in the wiring in the square upper part of the maf body. The best cure is to buy one off eBay and stick it in. The problems will all go away.

The A/F gauge going all over the place is a giveaway.

Joe
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  #19  
Old 11-27-2006, 04:50 PM
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Oops!

I forgot one other thing. If the MAF is gone bad, do have a check on your air cleaner also. If it has let in some oil on the MAF, this can hasten the demise. Put in a new air cleaner element with your replacement MAF.

Joe
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  #20  
Old 11-28-2006, 12:08 AM
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Did you have an error code concerning the MAF when there was a problem? Or are MAF problems usually not caught by an error code? (on another note, I have a volkswagon dealer hot to sell me a rabbit)
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Last edited by htyei; 11-28-2006 at 12:12 AM.
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  #21  
Old 11-28-2006, 02:24 AM
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No, I didn't. My problem was intermittent. Most of the time it went OK, and seemed to die on me under brakes when approaching a junction after a fast run. Or sometimes just in traffic. Possibly heat played a part in it.

With all the codes you are getting, you may have electrical problems as well. As the guys said, when you get multiple lights on the dash, that is usually a response to a bad alternator giving low voltage and confusing the ECU.

Joe
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  #22  
Old 11-28-2006, 02:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htyei
Yikes, these are the codes I get (and cross indexed with their meanings from svx-iw.
Should I clear out the codes and see if any or all come back?
I haven't cleared out the codes in years.




ECU error codes:


24 By-pass air control solenoid valve By-pass air control solenoid valve inoperative.
(Abnormal signal in monitor circuit.)
32 O2 sensor 1 (RH) O2 sensor 1 inoperative.
34 EGR solenoid valve EGR solenoid valve inoperative.
37 O2 sensor 2 (LH) O2 sensor 2 inoperative.
56 EGR system (CAL.) EGR calve open/close stick, EGR hose disconnect or exhaust pressure valve damaged.
So, did you clear the codes?
Did any come back?

If the code 24 comes back, I would definitely suspect that as being the root cause of your stalling problems.
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  #23  
Old 11-28-2006, 06:54 AM
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When my MAF went bad there were no codes. The stalling problem was intermittent. My best approach to making it stall was to drive the car until it was fully warmed up. Then turn it off for about 20 minutes (preferably on a hot day). Then try to drive it. It would probably stall then.
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Last edited by billb; 11-28-2006 at 07:05 AM.
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  #24  
Old 11-29-2006, 12:32 PM
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runs and dies

had same problem. CHECK THE FUEL PUMP!
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  #25  
Old 11-29-2006, 12:50 PM
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I had the same problems and replaced my maf, twice. It still died at stops.
I still haven't found a cure for this problem anywhere on this board yet.. it must just be the nature of the beast.
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Last edited by Ricochet; 11-29-2006 at 12:56 PM.
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  #26  
Old 12-02-2006, 04:26 PM
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Codes that came back after clearing:


34 EGR solenoid valve EGR solenoid valve inoperative.
37 O2 sensor 2 (LH) O2 sensor 2 inoperative.
23 Air flow sensor Abnormal voltage from air flow sensor.
56 EGR system (CAL.) EGR calve open/close stick, EGR hose disconnect or exhaust pressure valve damaged.
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  #27  
Old 12-02-2006, 05:25 PM
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I had code 37 and 23. I noticed a small hose missing under the intake line, I replaced it, cleaned the MAF and replaced the PCV valve. I cleared the codes and they never came back. You might also have a vacuum leak or an obstruction somewhere.
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  #28  
Old 12-03-2006, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htyei
Codes that came back after clearing:


34 EGR solenoid valve EGR solenoid valve inoperative.
37 O2 sensor 2 (LH) O2 sensor 2 inoperative.
23 Air flow sensor Abnormal voltage from air flow sensor.
56 EGR system (CAL.) EGR calve open/close stick, EGR hose disconnect or exhaust pressure valve damaged.
Henry

All of these indicate that the ECU, the fuel computer, is getting wrong readings and can't control the mix to give the optimum stoichmetric burn.

Worst case scenario, all four are bad and need to be replaced.

However, since you have already been advised that the MAF can give the symptoms you are getting, it's an obvious place to start.

Money for parts might be an issue, but it is unwise to drive what is an expensive car, and do nothing about the trouble codes it gives you.

If you have a friend nearby with an SVX, a non-expensive start would be to borrow the MAF from the good car for 20 minutes. Clear the codes and bolt the good MAF into your car. After a drive if it comes back with some or all of your other 3 codes, then you may need to investigate them and replace what is necessary. I would bet if the MAF readings are primary cause of your trouble, the two O2 codes may go away when the MAF is replaced.

Best of luck checking it.

Joe
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  #29  
Old 12-04-2006, 04:37 AM
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same problem here

I am having the same problem. car stopped in the middle of the road , but restarted without a problem. A few weeks before it was starting on 4 cylinders every day, had that rectified. But the engine light came on yesterday and its in the garage. They say they can't find anything, and asked me if I could show them what happens. I told them to take it for a drive and find out for themselves. As expected nothing happened.
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  #30  
Old 12-04-2006, 05:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoAnn merkur
I am having the same problem. car stopped in the middle of the road , but restarted without a problem. A few weeks before it was starting on 4 cylinders every day, had that rectified. But the engine light came on yesterday and its in the garage. They say they can't find anything, and asked me if I could show them what happens. I told them to take it for a drive and find out for themselves. As expected nothing happened.

JoAnn

You probably read the posts above. My own car, plus another guy's, they had the bad MAF trouble, which could cause this intermittent fault, but give no codes.

Have you any other SVX owner near you in Queensland who would loan you a MAF, or swop MAFs for a week? Or somebody who could loan you a spare one?

This of course presumes it is the MAF, it could be something else. Get garage boys to check the codes, I imagine they know to do that.

The other pretty likely culprit is the one Pete mentioned, but you might expect it to throw a code. This is the slow running jet solenoid. This is a piece of gear on the intake, the throttle body. The computer [ECU] tells it to run rich or lean, depending on a number of conditions. Chief among these would be whether the car engine is cold or warmed up, and whether you are using high-load accessories, such as heater fans, aircon or power steering. It reacts to these and adjusts up the tickover.

If the solenoid valve stops working or the jet gets dirty, some of these things cutting in while you are on low tick-over could cut out the engine.

If you are showing a code 24, this could be your problem.

Joe
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