Slow starting - Page 2

huck369 · #16 12-20-2006, 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by msvx95

How hard is it to remove it? Anything I should remove...hoses, etc. to get to the starter...it's a PITA to get to right? I think its located down under the brake booster near the firewall. I know the dealership will charge a pretty penny, so I would rather have it checked and rebuilt if I need to.

It is a bit of a pain on the SVX due to all the hoses and cables that run through that area, but it is doable, remove the "H-6" cover from the throttle body, and the cables/wires from the starter, then there is only a bolt on the top of it, and a nut on the bottom of it holding it on....(dissconnect the battery first

)

dannmarr · #17 12-20-2006, 06:07 AM

Did you check the the battery voltage first? I wouldn't jump and change parts without check the obvious first. Check the voltage on the battery and on the cables and on the starter solenoid.

msvx95 · #18 12-20-2006, 06:31 AM

I checked the voltage and was 11.45 with car off and somewhere in between 13-14 with car on.
Shouldn't I check the amperage with an amp meter?...I think the battery is okay since I also had the same symptoms when I jumped it to a new battery.

huck369 · #19 12-20-2006, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by msvx95

I checked the voltage and was 11.45 with car off and somewhere in between 13-14 with car on.
Shouldn't I check the amperage with an amp meter?...I think the battery is okay since I also had the same symptoms when I jumped it to a new battery.

Check the amperage on the small trigger wire on the starter, pop it off , then someone will have turn the key to the "start" position while you check it

Dessertrunner · #20 12-20-2006, 07:06 AM

You have to leave the wire on the starter so it is under load other wise you won't get a reading with full current load. IT is important to check it this way as I fell into the same trap and had full voltage with no load but 7-8V when still connected to the soliniod.
Tony

msvx95 · #21 12-21-2006, 04:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by huck369

It is a bit of a pain on the SVX due to all the hoses and cables that run through that area, but it is doable, remove the "H-6" cover from the throttle body, and the cables/wires from the starter, then there is only a bolt on the top of it, and a nut on the bottom of it holding it on....(dissconnect the battery first

)

I am having trouble getting my wrenches in there.....that high pressure hose is the one that is really in the way...I disconnected the wires except for the ground that's attached to the top bolt bracket.. I tried freeing up those bolts, but they are on there good!.... Is the other one your talking about under the starter...it's a larger nut right? I don't know how to get in there with a wrench....or is it better to use a socket...I really am having trouble.
Also, the part of the starter that attaches to the wires, is that the solenoid? and can that be removed only with two screws? Or is it better to remove the whole starter.

Dessertrunner · #22 12-21-2006, 04:37 AM

Matt do the test I suggested before you go to all the effort of removing the starter. What happens if you do all this work and it isn't the starter. As my suggestion are falling on deaf ear I will offer no further suggestions.
Tony

msvx95 · #23 12-21-2006, 05:00 AM

you are right...it does seem crazy to replace a starter...if infact it is an electrical issue. Sorry I'm not ignoring you Dessertrunner.

huck369 · #24 12-21-2006, 05:27 AM

I usually use a socket and an extension to get the lower nut (and the top bolt) It's actually easier to get the lower nut from under the car, but can be gotten from the top.

msvx95 · #25 03-19-2007, 10:49 AM

So I had been having good luck with the starter since I replaced it, but now I notice slow starts still again and this happens sometimes with the engine cold or warm.
I took the car to autozone to have the charging system checked and a good battery I'm told runs at 14.8 volts, while mine is running at 14.2. I thought I needed a new battery, but the worker there told me battery is fine.
I wish I knew how to fix this prob, but it's intermittent...I figure it's not the ignition switch because the starter will start up every time, just sometimes slower than others.
What could it be still? I have a new starter solenoid installed on the rebuilt starter too.

budbaer · #26 03-19-2007, 11:16 AM

I am not sure of your problem but I will tell you it's not the ignition switch, I have a bad one in my SVX and when it won't start as a result of the switch, there is no clicking. I had a simmilar problem with my RX-7. The guys at Autozone told me the battery was good, I put a new starter in the car and it did OK for a while and then started doing the same thing again, so I changed the battery and that fixed [I]my[I] problem. I don't want to tell you to get a new battery because I am not 100% this is your problem.

msvx95 · #27 03-20-2007, 05:38 AM

I understand what you are saying...Def. not the ign. switch because it will turn over every time the key is turned. I was really still thinking about replacing the battery anyways..the battery has been in the car for about 3 or 4 years I think...as the car is running, I'm sure the battery is being recharged by the alternator with no problems...as checked by the autozone guy.
I'm just wondering if I need that extra startup power from a new fresh battery.
Maybe one with higher CCA's...

ItsPeteReally · #28 03-20-2007, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by msvx95

I understand what you are saying...Def. not the ign. switch because it will turn over every time the key is turned. I was really still thinking about replacing the battery anyways..the battery has been in the car for about 3 or 4 years I think...as the car is running, I'm sure the battery is being recharged by the alternator with no problems...as checked by the autozone guy.
I'm just wondering if I need that extra startup power from a new fresh battery.
Maybe one with higher CCA's...

If your battery shows 11.45 volts off charge it's only fit for the recycling plant, a fully charged healthy battery should be at least 12.8 volts. Deep discharges (and 11.45 volts is a very deep discharge) kill an automotive battery's charge capacity very quickly indeed, they are designed to supply just a few seconds of high current to start the car before the alternator recharges them, storage batteries are a different beast, and are very much more expensive and much heavier too.

Frequent deep discharges can kill an automotive battery in less than a week, on the other hand, treated properly, they can last ten years or more. There's no point in buying a battery with high cold cranking amperage capacity if you are going to destroy it in a week by deep discharges.

rayford · #29 10-27-2015, 05:02 PM

I just got this SVX about a month ago, it is doing somewhat like what is being discussed here. it always starts, the engine turns over fine, just doesn't fire right up. Sometimes I push down on the gas peddle and it seems to start faster that way.. it seems to me that with my other SVX that I had something like this and I added a solenoid between the hot wire and the starter but I can't remember just why or how I did that. any ideas will be helpful. thanks,, Vernon

huck369 · #30 10-28-2015, 05:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rayford

I just got this SVX about a month ago, it is doing somewhat like what is being discussed here. it always starts, the engine turns over fine, just doesn't fire right up. Sometimes I push down on the gas peddle and it seems to start faster that way.. it seems to me that with my other SVX that I had something like this and I added a solenoid between the hot wire and the starter but I can't remember just why or how I did that. any ideas will be helpful. thanks,, Vernon

Sounds like you have a bad Temp sensor (the one for the ECU, not the one for the gauge)