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  #61  
Old 10-24-2006, 01:00 AM
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OK, So I'm 99% sure I just fixed my shift kit. I'll find out tomorrow when I put it back on the car and go for a drive. I found chikes old thread about his shift kit install, And when I saw the shift kit he had I immediately realized what the problem was and how to fix it. For some reason, the wrong terminal was broken off of my shift kit and the resistor was soldered between the wrong 2 terminals. I melted the plastic around the broken terminal and snipped the resistor off of the incorrect terminal that it was attached to, then hot glued and electrical taped on the resistor and a chunk of spare wire to the broken(and correct) terminal. I put a connector on the end of the chunk of wire so it will plug right into my connectors I have on my snipped resistor wire in the car. Now when I test I get the readings I should be, Which is 0 OHMs WITH vacuum and 670 OHMs WITHOUT vacuum. I can't wait to test it out tomorrow and see how it goes, But I'm confident it is going to now work as intended. I'll update how it goes tomorrow.
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  #62  
Old 10-24-2006, 02:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Budfreak
OK, So I'm 99% sure I just fixed my shift kit. I'll find out tomorrow when I put it back on the car and go for a drive. I found chikes old thread about his shift kit install, And when I saw the shift kit he had I immediately realized what the problem was and how to fix it. For some reason, the wrong terminal was broken off of my shift kit and the resistor was soldered between the wrong 2 terminals. I melted the plastic around the broken terminal and snipped the resistor off of the incorrect terminal that it was attached to, then hot glued and electrical taped on the resistor and a chunk of spare wire to the broken(and correct) terminal. I put a connector on the end of the chunk of wire so it will plug right into my connectors I have on my snipped resistor wire in the car. Now when I test I get the readings I should be, Which is 0 OHMs WITH vacuum and 670 OHMs WITHOUT vacuum. I can't wait to test it out tomorrow and see how it goes, But I'm confident it is going to now work as intended. I'll update how it goes tomorrow.
It is rather is disapointing to find that after expending a great deal of time and effort providing detailed descriptions covering every aspect of your problem, this was to no avail. My post no. 43 dated 10/12/06 exactly covering what you now describe must have been ignored.

The information provided, if taken into account, should have resulted in the fault being easily located much earlier.

N.B. Quote :-

**** Has Small Car by any chance cut off the wrong terminal and or wrongly attached the 670 ohms ? By logically using the details I have posted you should be able to sort this out.

What is annoying is the complete lack of any interest by the supplier.
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  #63  
Old 10-24-2006, 01:11 PM
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Well, It works. I still have the blinking power light, But I have 3rd gear engine braking and it shifts butter smooth when I want it to and very firm when I get on it. That's all I wanted it to do and I'll live with the blinking power light. Thanks for everybodies help.
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  #64  
Old 10-24-2006, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oab_au
Yes I have related the current flow that is operating in that circuit. The other feed operates independent, of the throttle pressure circuit.

I'll write some on it when I get a chance.

Harvey.
Not holding my breath. Nor is Mr. Ohm.
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  #65  
Old 10-24-2006, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor
Not holding my breath. Nor is Mr. Ohm.
I see a new zealand mud fight starting here.
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  #66  
Old 10-25-2006, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Budfreak
I see a new zealand mud fight starting here.
Not at all, simply clarification regarding statements which added to a frustrating and endlessly convoluted thread.
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  #67  
Old 11-07-2006, 04:43 AM
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I took a picture of mine after I just replaced the stock resistor yesterday.
I believe I have the correct configuration on the shift kit resistor.

I'll drive my car tomorrow to see if I see the blinky light still.
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  #68  
Old 11-07-2006, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msvx95
I took a picture of mine after I just replaced the stock resistor yesterday.
I believe I have the correct configuration on the shift kit resistor.

I'll drive my car tomorrow to see if I see the blinky light still.
Yep, that's the correct setup, But don't count on having no blinky power light. Mine is still blinking, But everything is working fine(3rd gear engine braking and so on).
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  #69  
Old 11-07-2006, 12:26 PM
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I know....I drove my truck today, so I will take the car tomorrow...I still have a feeling I'll get a blinker Although I did start the car up (engine warm) last night and no blinky lighty.
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  #70  
Old 11-07-2006, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Budfreak
Yep, that's the correct setup, But don't count on having no blinky power light. Mine is still blinking, But everything is working fine(3rd gear engine braking and so on).
Try reducing the value of the auxiliary resistor to approximately say 400 ohms and a minimum of one watt rating. Smallcar experimented before deciding on a value, but there will be discrepancies with individual cars. The OEM specs for instance, quote a quite wide tolerance in respect of the dropping resistor.

Edit P.S. First check the actual resistance across the pressure switch terminals in the open position, by way of proof that the auxiliary resistor and its connections are in fact sound. A dry soldered joint at a switch terminal is very possible.
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Last edited by Trevor; 11-07-2006 at 03:10 PM.
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  #71  
Old 11-07-2006, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor
Try reducing the value of the auxiliary resistor to approximately say 400 ohms and a minimum of one watt rating. Smallcar experimented before deciding on a value, but there will be discrepancies with individual cars. The OEM specs for instance, quote a quite wide tolerance in respect of the dropping resistor.
I was considering doing this, I just haven't gotten around to the electronics store yet to pick up a resistor. I'll try starting at 400 as you recommended.
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  #72  
Old 11-07-2006, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Budfreak
I was considering doing this, I just haven't gotten around to the electronics store yet to pick up a resistor. I'll try starting at 400 as you recommended.
Good one. You obviously understand what is involved. Note the P.S. I have added to my post, but I am sure you have taken this into account.

You will appreciate that as you reduce the value, the resistor will pass more current, therefore keep an eye out for it overheating of the added component calling for an increase in wattage rating. There is no way of calculating the exact rating required, as no specifications on actual effective signal currents and time constants are available. In any case the unlikely burning out of a resistor in the course of experiment is no big deal.
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  #73  
Old 11-07-2006, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor
Good one. You obviously understand what is involved. Note the P.S. I have added to my post, but I am sure you have taken this into account.

You will appreciate that as you reduce the value, the resistor will pass more current, therefore keep an eye out for it overheating of the added component calling for an increase in wattage rating. There is no way of calculating the exact rating required, as no specifications on actual effective signal currents and time constants are available. In any case the unlikely burning out of a resistor in the course of experiment is no big deal.
Agreed. As soon as I get time to play with it I'll post up what I do and how it goes.

And yes, I have taken your P.S. into account. If anything were actually disconnected though then I'd have no 3rd gear engine braking because anytime that circuit becomes open it sets the computer into a fault mode that kills 3rd gear engine braking and makes for harsh shifts.

Last edited by Budfreak; 11-07-2006 at 05:10 PM.
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  #74  
Old 11-07-2006, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Budfreak
Agreed. As soon as I get time to play with it I'll post up what I do and how it goes.

And yes, I have taken your P.S. into account. If anything were actually disconnected though then I'd have no 3rd gear engine braking because anytime that circuit becomes open it sets the computer into a fault mode that kills 3rd gear engine braking and makes for harsh shifts.
I was drawing attention to the fact that the auxiliary resistor, as a separate item, could have a faulty connection or be inherently faulty, even though all other connections were sound.

It is interesting that in your case it would appear that disconnecting the OEM dropping resistor circuit, sets the computer into a fault mode and kills third gear engine braking. This has not been previously reported as far as I am aware. Or is it that this occurs if only the auxiliary resistor is out of circuit, again even more strange? This aspect could warrant further investigation.
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  #75  
Old 11-07-2006, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor
I was drawing attention to the fact that the auxiliary resistor, as a separate item, could have a faulty connection or be inherently faulty, even though all other connections were sound.

It is interesting that in your case it would appear that disconnecting the OEM dropping resistor circuit, sets the computer into a fault mode and kills third gear engine braking. This has not been previously reported as far as I am aware. Or is it that this occurs if only the auxiliary resistor is out of circuit, again even more strange? This aspect could warrant further investigation.
Last time I tested the kit I had the exact readings I should have had, So I believe it to all be in working order. What happens with my computer is:
Back when the shift kit would just become an open circuit without vacuum, It would go into a fault mode and I would lose 3rd gear engine braking until I shut the car down and restarted it twice. If I was very light on the pedal all would remain fine, But once I hammered it and made the shift kit go to the high side(which at the time was an open) it would fault again and need reset once more.

Now that the resistor and everything is hooked up properly everything works fine, But I still have the occasional blinky light. I did notice that at the dragstrip when I had the vacuum line disconnected to the shift kit(meaning the resistance was at 670 OHMs constantly) that I had no third gear engine braking again.

It would seem the 670 OHM resistor is adequate to keep the computer from going into fault mode for as long as it returns to normal(stock resistance) when you let off the throttle, But if at anytime it goes to an open circuit(or if the resistance remains too high) the computer will go to fault mode(stops using the resistance in the circuit) and causes the transmission to act as if no resistor is present at all(like it's unplugged).
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