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  #1  
Old 05-13-2006, 03:35 PM
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Killed another crank pulley

As most of you know, I've had a knocking rod for awhile now and recently it got louder and more noticeable. I thought nothing of it figuring it was just about it's time. So I open the hood day before yesterday and take a listen and realize the knock is now in the front of the motor when it was in the back. I couldn't really see at the time, so the next day I checked it out and the crank pulley was loose! I did have loctite on it and it's been fine for about 7 months. But anyway, I tighten it up as best I can at the time including putting the ratchet on it and smacking it with a hammer a few times. It was good for a little while then I got on it on the turnpike and about 2 minutes later all the dash lights come on. I pulled over figuring the belt was just left a little to loose and popped off, But sure enough the pulley came loose again!! Long story and an 80 dollar tow later, I'm in autozones parking lot in austintown buying and borrowing tools to try to piece my car together and just when I think it's fixed, I start it up and all works fine for 5 seconds.
the pulley just stopped turning and started grinding against the crank. I took the pulley off and it is COMPLETELY rounded out inside all the way around. No evidence of a key slot or anything! So I was stranded and said screw it and bought a new battery just in case and drove it home on battery in the dark and rain with no lights or wipers. I made it in 40 minutes on my own battery with no power steering and a cast on one arm. I hope they will take the battery back when I can find a ride to autozone, Cause I am now completely broke due to this. I went to take the crank key out today and only half came out, So instead of even dealing with it and since it knocks and the crank key slot is screwed up, I'll probally have a new to me engine in the next 2 or 3 weeks. Unitl then though......
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  #2  
Old 05-13-2006, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Budfreak
As most of you know, I've had a knocking rod for awhile now and recently it got louder and more noticeable. I thought nothing of it figuring it was just about it's time. So I open the hood day before yesterday and take a listen and realize the knock is now in the front of the motor when it was in the back. I couldn't really see at the time, so the next day I checked it out and the crank pulley was loose! I did have loctite on it and it's been fine for about 7 months. But anyway, I tighten it up as best I can at the time including putting the ratchet on it and smacking it with a hammer a few times. It was good for a little while then I got on it on the turnpike and about 2 minutes later all the dash lights come on. I pulled over figuring the belt was just left a little to loose and popped off, But sure enough the pulley came loose again!! Long story and an 80 dollar tow later, I'm in autozones parking lot in austintown buying and borrowing tools to try to piece my car together and just when I think it's fixed, I start it up and all works fine for 5 seconds.
the pulley just stopped turning and started grinding against the crank. I took the pulley off and it is COMPLETELY rounded out inside all the way around. No evidence of a key slot or anything! So I was stranded and said screw it and bought a new battery just in case and drove it home on battery in the dark and rain with no lights or wipers. I made it in 40 minutes on my own battery with no power steering and a cast on one arm. I hope they will take the battery back when I can find a ride to autozone, Cause I am now completely broke due to this. I went to take the crank key out today and only half came out, So instead of even dealing with it and since it knocks and the crank key slot is screwed up, I'll probally have a new to me engine in the next 2 or 3 weeks. Unitl then though......
if you dont need the old engine for a core can i have it?
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Old 05-13-2006, 06:29 PM
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Keep in mind, it sounds like he had to drive it 40 minutes without a water pump in addition to the other problems it had to begin with.

KuoH

Quote:
Originally Posted by Suby Fan
if you dont need the old engine for a core can i have it?
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  #4  
Old 05-13-2006, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuoh
Keep in mind, it sounds like he had to drive it 40 minutes without a water pump in addition to the other problems it had to begin with.

KuoH
The water pump and oil pump are driven off of the timing belt.
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  #5  
Old 05-13-2006, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hocrest
The water pump and oil pump are driven off of the timing belt.
all i want is a non damaged block to build up with the S/C and 2.2 Turbo pistons and maybe some cams... mmmm.. i love day dreaming
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Old 05-13-2006, 08:06 PM
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Oops...brain fart. It completely slipped my mind since the whole mess is under covers.

KuoH

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hocrest
The water pump and oil pump are driven off of the timing belt.
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  #7  
Old 05-13-2006, 10:17 PM
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How is your engine damaged if your woodruff key was sheared?
I was under the impression your crank pulley just separated (from the shaft), or are you saying the bolt is de-threaded?
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  #8  
Old 05-14-2006, 12:13 AM
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The bolt came loose and eventually after so much beating rounded out the inside of the pulley were it mounts to the crank. The key didn't completely shear off, But it was broke in half when I took it out. The key slot on the crank is spread out and doesn't hold the key properly anymore and rather than deal with it I'm just gonna get a motor since it's got a rod knock anyway. I don't know what the story will be with my old motor after I swap. I'm keeping the intake and accessories just in case, But I may have the short block available. I'll let you all know as it happens.
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  #9  
Old 05-14-2006, 01:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Budfreak
The bolt came loose and eventually after so much beating rounded out the inside of the pulley were it mounts to the crank. The key didn't completely shear off, But it was broke in half when I took it out. The key slot on the crank is spread out and doesn't hold the key properly anymore and rather than deal with it I'm just gonna get a motor since it's got a rod knock anyway. I don't know what the story will be with my old motor after I swap. I'm keeping the intake and accessories just in case, But I may have the short block available. I'll let you all know as it happens.
thats just what i need...
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  #10  
Old 05-14-2006, 12:48 PM
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you do realize that the 2.2l turbo or N/A pistons will drop the CR way too low to be of any use right??

tom
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  #11  
Old 05-14-2006, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsSVX
you do realize that the 2.2l turbo or N/A pistons will drop the CR way too low to be of any use right??

tom
seriously? i thought that they can be swaped out to lower the compression on a heavly blown motor
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  #12  
Old 05-14-2006, 07:20 PM
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I think with all the calculations done correctly the N/A pistons will land youa bout 7.5 or 8 to 1 CR which is way too low for anything you may want to do with the EG33

Tom
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  #13  
Old 05-24-2006, 09:02 PM
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Aluminum underdrive on the way. Back on the road tomorrow.
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  #14  
Old 05-24-2006, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Budfreak
Aluminum underdrive on the way. Back on the road tomorrow.
if its underdriven, i hope it comes with/you have the right sized belt(s) to use with it.
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  #15  
Old 05-24-2006, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landshark
if its underdriven, i hope it comes with/you have the right sized belt(s) to use with it.
I think he is sending the ones that came with it. If not or if they don't fit, Advance is 1 mile down the road.
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