Transmission Code 16? - Page 2

dwd1985 · #16 10-22-2005, 07:58 PM

Does anyone have any info on this problem at all? When I drive at first, the shifts from 1-2 are little rough, but not horribly so. After a minute or two of driving, it shifts just fine. The main thing is when I back out of a parking spot, and then put it in drive from reverse, there is a nice, solid clunk, that wasnt there before I got the transmission code. I would really like to check my wires and hoses running to the duty solenoid, but still cant find where to look for it at. Also, another question about the solenoids, are A,B and C all essentially the same part, but have control over different functions? In other words, is a duty solenoid just a duty solenoid, period? Or is duty solenoid A actually a different part from duty solenoid B?

thundering02 · #17 10-22-2005, 11:13 PM

Sounds like line pressure is up each of the sol's are differnet in diff locations sol a and the resistor controling it control line pressure.

oab_au · #18 10-23-2005, 04:54 PM

The 1/2 shift a bit rough, and the clunk, when shifting into D, sound like the line pressure is staying high. This could be caused by a faulty dropping resistor, or the A solenoid is faulty. You say that it stops doing it when it warms up. May be the A solenoid is sticking when cold to cause the high line pressure. The solenoids are mounted on the valve body, they can be replaced without removing the box.

Harvey.

#19 10-23-2005, 05:30 PM

I found this thread by chance, and am very interested
as my car is experiencing the same exact symptoms.
I continue to drive it while I save up some cash,
as well as deciding whether or not to go to my local
mechanic or take it to the Subaru dealer. (Which
is directly proportional to the amount of cash needed!)

kuoh · #20 10-23-2005, 09:57 PM

If the clunk sounds like it's coming more from the rear of the car than the center, then you may want to check the rear differential bushings.

KuoH

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwd1985

The main thing is when I back out of a parking spot, and then put it in drive from reverse, there is a nice, solid clunk, that wasnt there before I got the transmission code.

#21 10-24-2005, 04:18 PM

OK, I'm an idiot, I'll admit that upfront. When attempting to pull error codes from the TCU, one of the steps is to turn the key off, then put the gear selector in D. Well, umm, you can't move the gear selector with the ignition off can you? I couldn't!

kuoh · #22 10-24-2005, 04:30 PM

Well since yours is a 92, there is a button on the shifter console, just fore and left of the stick, that release the shift lock when pressed down.

KuoH

#23 10-24-2005, 05:20 PM

Thanks, that's what I figgered'

#24 10-24-2005, 05:27 PM

"If the clunk sounds like it's coming more from the rear of the car than the center, then you may want to check the rear differential bushings."

I don't have the clunk, just hard shifts 1-2, and of course the blinking power light. Also, in all the rain today, I noticed that I could spin the front wheels
seemingly more easily than previous. The tires are pretty worn, but I'm not about to find some gravel road to find out if indeed the AWD is not working,
like I've read to do on this forum. Snow will be here soon enough.
Like, maybe tomorrow. (I guess a jack will tell me the same thing though, right?)

sperry · #25 10-24-2005, 05:39 PM

I'm in the exact same boat!

I thought I pulled a code 12 from the ECU when I checked a while ago, but that's Solinoid B, and I don't believe Solinoid B has anything to do with the shifting... maybe I miss-read the code?

I'm getting the heavy clunk from R to D and the hard shifts, especially when the car's cold. In addtion, I'm also noticing more torque steer, which seems to imply I'm not getting power transfered to the rear wheels properly. And finally, if I'm in 3rd coasting down a long hill, I'm noticing the car seems to seek for 3rd... i.e. the rpms come up and the engine starts braking the car, then the tranny unlocks and it coasts for a bit at a lower rpm, then the tranny trys again to lockup... which *does* sound like a Solinoid B issue.

The only thing I'm pretty sure it's not is Solinoid C, since I got that replaced last year, along w/ a rebuild of the rear clutch pack thingy that transfers power to the rear, which resolved the binding issues the car had when I got it.

I was just going to ignore the problem, since I've got a WRX 5-speed sitting on the shop floor waiting to get installed, but I'd rather wait till the spring to do the swap, so I'm gonna keep an eye on this thread to see if there's a cheap fix for my issue to get me through the winter. Does anyone have a good explanation or diagram on what to check/replace?

sperry · #26 10-24-2005, 06:35 PM

Okay, I just got home from work, and re-pulled my TCU code, it's code 11, aka Duty Solinoid A... anyone have advice on further diagnosis of the issue and/or replacement of that solinoid?

#27 10-24-2005, 07:08 PM

The duty solenoids are very easy to replace. A is probably the hardest though. You remove the pan, drop the valve body, remove solenoid A, replace solenoid A, reinstall the valve body, reinstall the pan, fill with ATF, drive away.

Earthworm · #28 10-27-2005, 11:11 AM

Always check the resistance of the resistor between the battery and the fender for tranny code 11. 99% of the time that's the problem. It also causes the weird coasting issues in 3rd.

dwd1985 · #29 10-27-2005, 11:31 AM

So theoretically, if you were getting a code 11, and some hard shifts from 1-2, and you disconnected the resistor, then the code 11 would still be there, but your shifts would return to normal...right? Because I tried disconnecting the resistor, thinking that if it were bad, then the car would operate like normal again, because alot of people who dont have the shift kit installed just leave their resistors unplugged. But if I unplugged it, and still got hard shifts, then it must be duty solenoid A, as the code stated. Does that make sense? Because if by some chance it does happen to be the resistor and not the solenoid, that would be amazingly awesome.

#30 10-27-2005, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwd1985

So theoretically, if you were getting a code 11, and some hard shifts from 1-2, and you disconnected the resistor, then the code 11 would still be there, but your shifts would return to normal...right? Because I tried disconnecting the resistor, thinking that if it were bad, then the car would operate like normal again, because alot of people who dont have the shift kit installed just leave their resistors unplugged. But if I unplugged it, and still got hard shifts, then it must be duty solenoid A, as the code stated. Does that make sense? Because if by some chance it does happen to be the resistor and not the solenoid, that would be amazingly awesome.

No because some people unplug it because they want that hard shift.
Anyone have the part # for said tranny resistor?