Questions on rear lateral link bolt

CigarJohnny · #1 11-22-2003, 01:10 PM

I am planning to replace the right/rear wheel bearing in my SVX shortly. I checked the instructions in the "HowTo" section and they are very brief and vague. One of my lateral links was apparently bent at one time when my SVX was towed. While I have the hub off (no access to a hub tamer) I plan to straighten out the bend in the link with a few good wacks of a 5lb sledge hammer. The bearing replacement guide says that there is a limit to the torque one should apply to this link bolt when putting the hub back on so you do not deform the hub housing. It makes no mention as to the proper torque specs except to say they are "probably less than you think". I also heard from the shop where I had my car inspected that they have never had luck loosening that link bolt (on other non-svx cars) without it snapping (always seized when they try to remove them). I have never heard from anyone here that there was ever a problem disconnecting the lateral link bolt from the hub assembly.

That said, here are my questions:

1- Has anyone had any problems removing the lateral link bolt?

2- What is the correct torque specs for the bolt so as to not deform the hub housing?

3- Most important spec missing from the bearing replacement howto was the proper torque spec for the hub when putting the beast back together. Correct torque spec?

4- Anyone happen to know the needed socket sizes and tools necessary for the job? I'd like to have all my tools at hand before I begin. I hate the surprises that I usually encounter everytime I try to do some work myself

5- Any advice from those who have done the bearings themselves as to what to look for and avoid? I understand one thing to watch for is that the ABS sensor can be corroded on.

Once I complete the task successfully (provided I do ) I plan on writing a very descriptive instructional listing tools, specs and detailed instructions for the job.

CigarJohnny · #2 11-22-2003, 01:13 PM

I just found all the torque specs posted by Lee in another thread. Still need the rest of the info if anyone can provide answers. Thanks in advance

Landshark · #3 11-22-2003, 01:31 PM

i don't have any info on this, but it can't hurt to soak that bolt in PB Blaster for starters...

lee · #4 11-22-2003, 10:29 PM

PB Blaster is great stuff. On one side, I got the link loose and took the hub off. It was no problem for me, but then my car has spent it's whole life in Florida so not much corrosion. I think the main use of the PB will be getting the ABS sensor loose. There's a bolt on the backside, then it slips out of the housing...while I've not seen one corroded up, I think it's this interference fit in the housing that's the problem most complain about.

I can't remember sizes, but I think 10, 12, 14, 17, and 19 mm is all you need (except for the axle nut). 19 is my guess for the link bolt. You might want old style brake tools as the parking brake is just like old style drum brakes concerning springs, etc. Other than the axle nut it's all pretty straight forward. Also you need to have some industrial strength tools to remove the axle nut, etc. I used a Snap-On air gun in a shop with a compressor servicing 6 racks - had to beat on it a bit to get it to come loose - maybe yours will be easier, just a warning.

mbtoloczko · #5 11-22-2003, 11:33 PM

I also suggest pre-soaking any potentially corroded/rusted nuts with PB Plaster. When I did both the rear wheel bearings on my car, getting the lateral link nuts/bolts loose required a 4 ft long breaker bar. I only soaked the bolts for about 1/2 hour before attempting to remove them. I think an overnight soak would have made it easier.

IMHO, you would be better off buying a used lateral link rather than attempting to straighten yours.

alia176 · #6 11-23-2003, 07:01 AM

interesting you mentioned the lateral link bolt. I "attempted" the wheel bearing job on my wife's car, and her bolt was in fact seized to the bushings. After using a 30" breaker bar plus a 24" pipe at the end of the bar, I was able to break it loose, just barely. I applied heat where the bolt goes through the front (toward the front of the car), and finally I was able to rotate the bolt. Unfortunately, I was noticiing that the bushing was still seized and the inner sleeve of the bushing was rotating with the bolt, thereby, destroying the bushing in the process. At this point, I evaulated the situation and decided that it was time for the hubtamer tool to be ordered. You see, tearing up the bushing ain't a big deal, however, pressing on a new bushing requires the removal of that arm from the vehilce. And guess what, there's another bushing at the other end of that arm and I figured it too is corroded. This is a chicago car so corrosion is rampant. So to add to your list, purchase bushings, and the long bolt/nut just in case you may need them.

Sorry for the long winded note! I was curious about how you were going to perform the work. My plan was to remove the knuckle from the vehicle and use the press to move the bearing in/out. I was able to remove the outer hub by using a slidehammer. When the outer hub came out, it brought with it one of the tapered bearing and a grease seal. You'll also need a needle nose plier to remove the snap ring.

Anyway, good luck and keep us posted. I'm looking for a hubtamer tool as I write this. My question is whether or not it's necessary to remove the axle out of the hub in order for the hubtamer tool to do its thing?

Ali

'92 SVX
'95 Legacy Wagon

CigarJohnny · #7 11-23-2003, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by lee
PB Blaster is great stuff. On one side, I got the link loose and took the hub off. It was no problem for me, but then my car has spent it's whole life in Florida so not much corrosion. I think the main use of the PB will be getting the ABS sensor loose. There's a bolt on the backside, then it slips out of the housing...while I've not seen one corroded up, I think it's this interference fit in the housing that's the problem most complain about.

I can't remember sizes, but I think 10, 12, 14, 17, and 19 mm is all you need (except for the axle nut). 19 is my guess for the link bolt. You might want old style brake tools as the parking brake is just like old style drum brakes concerning springs, etc. Other than the axle nut it's all pretty straight forward. Also you need to have some industrial strength tools to remove the axle nut, etc. I used a Snap-On air gun in a shop with a compressor servicing 6 racks - had to beat on it a bit to get it to come loose - maybe yours will be easier, just a warning.

Thanks for the info, Lee! I think I have all the tools covered. I'm sure I will have to do some digging for certain tools in the rubble that lives in my garage. I should be able to get the axle nut off since I have been known to use 6ft of leverage in the past. The screaching noise from the metal is horrendous when it just doesn't want to let go of it's hold.

CigarJohnny · #8 11-23-2003, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mbtoloczko
I also suggest pre-soaking any potentially corroded/rusted nuts with PB Plaster. When I did both the rear wheel bearings on my car, getting the lateral link nuts/bolts loose required a 4 ft long breaker bar. I only soaked the bolts for about 1/2 hour before attempting to remove them. I think an overnight soak would have made it easier.

IMHO, you would be better off buying a used lateral link rather than attempting to straighten yours.

Sound advice! I will presoak everything the day before I do the work. I will get some PB Blaster on Monday since I've only ever used WD-40 as a penetrating oil. Seems everyone here swears by it. Thanks!

Subafreak · #9 11-23-2003, 08:01 AM

PB blaster sucks. Lawson's non flamable penatrating fluid is like torches in a can, in rocks. Just to let you know.

Anyway, hope it goes smoothly for ya, and try not to hurt yourself.

CigarJohnny · #10 11-23-2003, 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by alia176
interesting you mentioned the lateral link bolt. I "attempted" the wheel bearing job on my wife's car, and her bolt was in fact seized to the bushings. After using a 30" breaker bar plus a 24" pipe at the end of the bar, I was able to break it loose, just barely. I applied heat where the bolt goes through the front (toward the front of the car), and finally I was able to rotate the bolt. Unfortunately, I was noticiing that the bushing was still seized and the inner sleeve of the bushing was rotating with the bolt, thereby, destroying the bushing in the process. At this point, I evaulated the situation and decided that it was time for the hubtamer tool to be ordered. You see, tearing up the bushing ain't a big deal, however, pressing on a new bushing requires the removal of that arm from the vehilce. And guess what, there's another bushing at the other end of that arm and I figured it too is corroded. This is a chicago car so corrosion is rampant. So to add to your list, purchase bushings, and the long bolt/nut just in case you may need them.

Sorry for the long winded note! I was curious about how you were going to perform the work. My plan was to remove the knuckle from the vehicle and use the press to move the bearing in/out. I was able to remove the outer hub by using a slidehammer. When the outer hub came out, it brought with it one of the tapered bearing and a grease seal. You'll also need a needle nose plier to remove the snap ring.

Anyway, good luck and keep us posted. I'm looking for a hubtamer tool as I write this. My question is whether or not it's necessary to remove the axle out of the hub in order for the hubtamer tool to do its thing?

Ali

'92 SVX
'95 Legacy Wagon

I'm hoping I don't need the lateral link bolt since mine looks fairly clean and uncorroded. My Subaru dealer is just up the road in case I end up needing one. Presoakiing a day in advance should help things a bit.

As far as my hub plans go, I plan on getting the housing off and taking it to the local machine shop where they are experienced in pressing them in and out. They will do it for $43. Worth it if it saves me a lot of time and agravation. I was planning on hooking up with svx_commuter and using his bearing puller that he made (sort of a homemade hub-tamer) but have not heard from him yet. Looks like it is time to PM him. I tried calling around at various places locally to see if someone had a hub tamer to rent but either they never heard of one of they don't have it. I will try my local dealer on Monday to see if they have one I can rent or borrow. If the tool is that great and expensive to buy new you would think most rental outfits would have them. My local Autozone has rental tools and one of them is a "bearing puller". They never heard of hub tamer so I think it is just one of those typical pullers you can buy for $15.

As for removing the axle from the hub when using a hub tamer I believe the answer is "no". That is the whole purpose of the tamer. So you can change the bearings with everything still on the car. A very simple tool if you can afford one or know someone with one you can use. Lucky them

At any rate I will let you know how things go. Thanks for the input!

CigarJohnny · #11 11-23-2003, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Subafreak
PB blaster sucks. Lawson's non flamable penatrating fluid is like torches in a can, in rocks. Just to let you know.

Anyway, hope it goes smoothly for ya, and try not to hurt yourself.

LOL! "Lawson's" huh? I will look for it. Available at most auto part stores?

Earthworm · #12 11-27-2003, 07:34 PM

I've had both outside bushings changed on the rear drivers side suspension. The link bolt came out after spraying with penetrating fluid.

Strange that with all the rattling I was getting from the rear suspension it was all being caused by a single bushing.

CigarJohnny · #13 11-28-2003, 05:14 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Earthworm
I've had both outside bushings changed on the rear drivers side suspension. The link bolt came out after spraying with penetrating fluid.

Strange that with all the rattling I was getting from the rear suspension it was all being caused by a single bushing.

Glad to hear it came out that easily for you. I will definitely be straightening or replacing a lower link one day by myself.

Considering the bushing that was bad I can believe that it made a ton of noise.

wawazat?? · #14 11-28-2003, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Subafreak
PB blaster sucks.

No need to sugar coat it Jesse. You're amongst friends, tell us how you really feel.

Todd

Subafreak · #15 11-28-2003, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by CigarJohnny
LOL! "Lawson's" huh? I will look for it. Available at most auto part stores?

I really don't know where to get it "sorry" Lawsons is actually a hardware supplier that restocks the nut and bolt selection at my shop and we get the stuff from them. We have tried all kinds of penatating oils, P.B., Wurths Rostoff, and a few other odd ones and nothing work like the Lawsons stuff, witch seems ood becouse it's nonflammable. Isn't all the good stuff flammable?

On another note: What kinda noise does it make when the rear bushings go bad? I'm getting this increasing kinda "rackity" noise from my right rear that I keep waiting to turn into a bearing noise but it's just not. All my bushings look good and I can't find anything loose but something is making an annoying sound back their. I planned on just changing the bearing anyway, I guess if something else is bad I'll find it then.