Autoseatbelts Fixed! - Page 4

#46 02-12-2004, 02:29 PM

Aloha gang,

I have been dealing with the same problems with my 92 LS L. Suddenly, the drivers side cut out all togther -- it stays in the open position -- I bet it is the ECU. I hope that I can get another one, FHI has to keep us in parts until 2007 -- after that we are on our own. Alia176 and 96svxer thanks for posting all the great tech info.

Nick

#47 02-13-2004, 05:58 AM

Well subaru stopped making the autoseatbelts in 94 (i think) so parts are scarce. Actually I would assume your problem isn't the ECU. I would assume it's a bad rear locked limit switch in your case. I would manually crank the seatbelt back to it's rear locked limit switch and open the door, if it fires...I would start at the switch. I had the same problem. (basically just have had bad luck with the seatbelts all together, but everything has been working fine for a few months now.) In stead of buying a new limit switch assembly I just opened mine up replaced both limits switches (both were bad) and sottered them in. Has worked great and only cost me $5. If you need help shoot me off some questions. I know the seatbelt system by heart.

michael · #48 07-29-2005, 05:38 PM

This thread has been a great read guys, nice work. I'm still wondering tho, why can't you change out the relays. If it was put together can't it be taken apart? What if you cut the housing off the relay and glued it back when you are done. It is the relays right? not the ECU itself.

kuoh · #49 07-29-2005, 06:17 PM

That's generally the case. The SVX is pretty old, so I doubt that they used or needed multi layered PCB, in which case, it's a simple matter to use a solder wick or sucker and remove the existing solder on the relay pins. Finding exact replacement relays might not be as easy, but one can probably rig a similar relay in place.

One thing I didn't see in the thread is whether they tested the relays. While it's not as easy as doing it out of circuit, it is still possible. Simply measure the trigger and output pins on the PCB and see if they change states as expected. If the trigger pin doesn't change state when it's supposed to, then it may be the relay driver components that need looked at.

KuoH

Quote:

Originally Posted by michael

If it was put together can't it be taken apart?

#50 07-31-2005, 08:18 AM

Wow this thread is a blast from the past. Alot of people seem to be reading it. It's helped out lots of people. Too bad it's not a sticky yet.
I work with relays everyday. Every relay has a switching rating to them. (how many times they can cycle withough burning up). No relay lives forever. It makes sense that the problem is the relay, and not something else, because the driver side door is opened far more times then the passanger door (thats why the drivers side seatbelt stops working, and not the passanger side.) But again I have no definant proof.
Although I have not actually tested the relays (I still have my old module if any body is interested in testing it), I feel very comfortable that it is indeed the relays.
Again I dont believe the relays can be removed. It is on a printed board, no real sotter to mention of, if I remember right. Also I did a web search on the relays model and could find nothing. It must have been a subaru part only. I looked to find relay drawings to show the internal switchings of the relay but couldn't find anything. I did find similar looking relays, made by the same manufacture, but in the long run is it really worth it? Even if there was some way to get the relays out, and find a replacement one that would fit, had the exact same pin spacing, pin layout, life expectancy, voltage, somehow managed to sotter it in, it somehow it didn't come loose during the cold winter months, and hot summer days. I just bought a new one, and couldn't be happier. It's been years and no problems.

kuoh · #51 07-31-2005, 10:12 AM

It depends on whether we're talking a difference of a few tens of dollars or several hundred dollars. If you could pick up a new module for under $50, then sure, it probably would be simpler to just replace it. But if it's going to cost $250 when it's only a $5 part, then I wouldn't be so willing to give up. It should simple enough to find a replacement relay that has a similar coil spec as the original, the pin spacing isn't crucial, as one could easily put the relay elsewhere and run wires, it just won't look as pretty. As for it coming loose in changing weather conditions, that shouldn't happen with proper solder connections which are not being strained on a regular basis.

KuoH

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96svxer

I did find similar looking relays, made by the same manufacture, but in the long run is it really worth it? Even if there was some way to get the relays out, and find a replacement one that would fit, had the exact same pin spacing, pin layout, life expectancy, voltage, somehow managed to sotter it in, it somehow it didn't come loose during the cold winter months, and hot summer days.

michael · #52 07-31-2005, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96svxer

Wow this thread is a blast from the past. Alot of people seem to be reading it. It's helped out lots of people. Too bad it's not a sticky yet.
I work with relays everyday. Every relay has a switching rating to them. (how many times they can cycle withough burning up). No relay lives forever. It makes sense that the problem is the relay, and not something else, because the driver side door is opened far more times then the passanger door (thats why the drivers side seatbelt stops working, and not the passanger side.) But again I have no definant proof.
Although I have not actually tested the relays (I still have my old module if any body is interested in testing it), I feel very comfortable that it is indeed the relays.
Again I dont believe the relays can be removed. It is on a printed board, no real sotter to mention of, if I remember right. Also I did a web search on the relays model and could find nothing. It must have been a subaru part only. I looked to find relay drawings to show the internal switchings of the relay but couldn't find anything. I did find similar looking relays, made by the same manufacture, but in the long run is it really worth it? Even if there was some way to get the relays out, and find a replacement one that would fit, had the exact same pin spacing, pin layout, life expectancy, voltage, somehow managed to sotter it in, it somehow it didn't come loose during the cold winter months, and hot summer days. I just bought a new one, and couldn't be happier. It's been years and no problems.

I'd be interested in your old one if you have no use for it. Mabey I could find a way to use the passenger relays of mine in the driver relay of yours. It is so unfair that subaru can charge us these prices for a seatbelt ECU if it were a GM it would be about $20. It's not a guided missle for god sake! And a new steering wheel, Don't get me started.

dannmarr · #53 07-31-2005, 06:23 PM

I read in some old threads that someone used the rear window switch to control the seatbelts, bypassing all the relays etc. Does anyone know how to do this or has done it?

#54 08-01-2005, 10:59 PM

PM me your mailing address and when I get back from California I will mail it out to you. I'm not sure people understand how tight of a space there is to deal with. But I wish everybody luck in trying to repair it.

PS Pics of it in my locker, you can read the part number of the Relays (kinda) It will give you an idea of what you have to work with

kuoh · #55 08-02-2005, 06:39 AM

That's not bad at all, there's plenty of room for a mini relay. In case you didn't know, the relay soldering happens from the bottom side of the board. All you have to do is measure the relay's dimensions and the pin centers, and I'll bet you can easily find a replacement from Digikey or even Radio Shack if it's a popular size.

KuoH

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96svxer

I'm not sure people understand how tight of a space there is to deal with. But I wish everybody luck in trying to repair it.

billb · #56 08-03-2005, 05:39 AM

I have this annoying problem too. I've been watching with interest and I hope that you guys figure this thing out. I'd love to just replace a couple of relays on a PWB. I have access to solder suckers and skilled people. If someone can find the part, I'm sure I can replace it.

dannmarr · #57 10-06-2005, 08:34 PM

I got word from SVX JAZZ in how to fix the seatbelt problem.
This is the cheapest alternate fix, try it!
Basically all you are doing is disconnecting the rear window switches and using them to control the seatbelts.
Step one; Remove the back seats
Step two; remove the screw with the washer holding the side panel
Step three; pull back and slightly lift side panel (just enough to reach behind)
Step four; unplug connectors to the rear window(green) and the seatbelt motor(white)
Step five; switch the connections (make sure the feed end is connected to the motor)
Remember, the connectors are the same type for both the window and the seatbelt motor so you can’t make a mistake
try the switches before you close up everything.
You’re all done!
I've included photos with the directions.

alia176 · #58 10-07-2005, 05:45 AM

Most excellent writeup. Thanks for taking the time to do this!

I am going in a different direction finally! Found a '94 SVX with manual belts so I'll be switching the automatic to manual in the next few weeks. I was never a big fan of auto seat belt and have been waiting for this opportunity. I still need to fix the door limit switch as per the instruction layed out in this thread

I'll post a writeup with pics shortly in the future.

Regards,

Ali
'92

michael · #59 10-07-2005, 06:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billb

I have this annoying problem too. I've been watching with interest and I hope that you guys figure this thing out. I'd love to just replace a couple of relays on a PWB. I have access to solder suckers and skilled people. If someone can find the part, I'm sure I can replace it.

The part no longer is produced, I contacted the mfgr. and was told they "went out with the do-do". However it is aparently one of 4 relays that go bad, if some one could find out which relay does what we could get a used one and replace the bad one with another.

kuoh · #60 10-07-2005, 05:29 PM

Cool, I always wanted automatic rear windows!

KuoH

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannmarr

Step five; switch the connections (make sure the feed end is connected to the motor)
Remember, the connectors are the same type for both the window and the seatbelt motor so you can’t make a mistake