Emergency brake light on??

#1 12-09-2002, 08:56 PM

My e-brake is sometimes on when I turn on my car and drive to school even when the e-brake is not up. I was thinking it might be just a wire loose or something. But after school goes by I get out and the light is off. Could it have something to do with the temperature? Maybe someone can give me advice.

Beav · #2 12-09-2002, 08:58 PM

Check your brake fluid - when it gets cold it contracts and drops a bit, someties enough to turn on the light. BTW - when the fluid drops that far it's a good idea to take a peek at your brakes, it may be time for new pads.

Mr. Pockets · #3 12-09-2002, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Kolombian013X
My e-brake is sometimes on when I turn on my car and drive to school even when the e-brake is not up. I was thinking it might be just a wire loose or something. But after school goes by I get out and the light is off. Could it have something to do with the temperature? Maybe someone can give me advice.

When I drove my SVX in the winter, I think it did this some times. My Justy does it, but only when it's below 20 degF outside.

Just to clarify, I always set the e-brake when I park any of my cars. Anyway, if anybody has an answer, I'd love to hear it.

drivemusicnow · #4 12-09-2002, 09:10 PM

whenever i set the e-brake on my svx my mom ends up driving it and usually gets pissed at me cause she leaves it on for the first few minutes of driving... so I've given up on putting it on... figure its not as bad for the tranni to hold it as it is for the brake to drive with it

Ron Mummert · #5 12-09-2002, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Beav
Check your brake fluid - when it gets cold it contracts and drops a bit, someties enough to turn on the light. BTW - when the fluid drops that far it's a good idea to take a peek at your brakes, it may be time for new pads.

Yep - after following lotsa' posts about this phenomenon, my light came on two weeks ago during a bitter cold snap. I popped the master cylinder cap & it was BARELY below full. Nonetheless I poured a bit of fluid in, (Thanks, Rufus). The fluid even overflowed as I screwed the cap back on. The light's been out ever since. Ain't this site a major help, or what?

Ron.

#6 12-09-2002, 10:57 PM

never ignore your brake lights. Mine was on for about 10 minutes one day before I nearly soiled myself. I had a small hole in a line and was barely able to stop at an intersection once. If it wasn't for the e-brake I may or may not have been able to.

CDG · #7 12-10-2002, 12:28 AM

Not that I'm the expert on the SVX, but this is a common problem with vehicles having a sensor in the master. Brake fluid has charactoristics that make the float decay, so by adding a little more fluid, you bypass the problem. Ya, it can also be a wire.
Answer#1: check the float/sensor sitting in brake fluid, if it looks off, either replace it, or depending on the material, it can be boiled in hot water to remove saturation of brake fluid.
Answer#2: Tempurature is a key factor to the above, but some cars have a residual preassure gauge in the master cylinder, again, no idea about the SVX.
Answer#3, and todays best pick: Hit things and watch the light, that should help pin point the problem.

mohrds · #8 12-10-2002, 05:32 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by drivemusicnow
whenever i set the e-brake on my svx my mom ends up driving it and usually gets pissed at me cause she leaves it on for the first few minutes of driving... so I've given up on putting it on... figure its not as bad for the tranni to hold it as it is for the brake to drive with it

Sounds like your mom needs to have her driving privileges taken away.

Sheesh...How can she not notice that big red light on the dash?

Doug

Beav · #9 12-10-2002, 01:23 PM

To clarify - there isn't a 'residual pressure' switch in any car I'm aware of, however there there is a pressure differential switch that will turn on the same light if there's a difference in pressure between the two braking circuits. Since he didn't mention any noticeable drop in the pedal height I went with the low fluid theory. Not picking nits, just being a bit more accurate. Floats can become saturated, but while it's not unheard of, the vast majority are just in need of pads. As the pads wear the fluid replaces their diminishing thickness by collecting on the other side of the caliper piston.

Nick: If you really don't need to use the parking brake, don't. In the winter below freezing temperatures will cause any water that might be inside the cable housing to freeze and not allow the brake to fully release. (just like the Taurus cruise cable mentioned in the other thread) Until the cable comes completely back to the released position the handle probably won't pull against the switch enough to open the circuit to the lamp.

Aredubjay · #10 12-10-2002, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Beav
In the winter below freezing temperatures will cause any water that might be inside the cable housing to freeze and not allow the brake to fully release.

This is a problem I've had with most of the former cars I've owned. I simply don't set the brake overnight in freezing weather.

As for the brake light, I've had the "Light on in cold conditions" on both my SVXes. A dab of fluid has cured the problem on both.

Mr. Pockets · #11 12-10-2002, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Beav
Nick: If you really don't need to use the parking brake, don't. In the winter below freezing temperatures will cause any water that might be inside the cable housing to freeze and not allow the brake to fully release. (just like the Taurus cruise cable mentioned in the other thread) Until the cable comes completely back to the released position the handle probably won't pull against the switch enough to open the circuit to the lamp.

While that's good advice, and I appreciate it, it's too complicated for me. If I have to think about the rules before I apply the parking brake, then I'm going to forget it when I really need to use it. Right now, it's a reflexive part of parking. Yeah, it's possible that some day I'm going to set the brake and then not be able to get it to release, but that hasn't happened to me yet in nine years, so I'll still take my chances.

Another stupid thing I do:

When I was in driver's ed, believe it or not my driving in structor told me to hold the button down while lifting up on the lever. Why? So it wouldn't wear out the teeth that the little pawl catches on. I'm not kidding. How many times a day would you have to park your car to wear out those friggin' teeth over the lifetime of the car?

And yet, I do it.

I think because I just don't like the 'rccccccchhhhhhh" noise, not because I think I'm wearing anything out. I think I might also do it so I can actually feel cable tension before I let the button go.

mohrds · #12 12-10-2002, 02:50 PM

I use the parking brake every time I park. The cables on the SVX are 100% enclosed from the cabin all the way to the inside of brake drum. The cables stay well greased inside with very little chance of the grease getting washed off.

As opposed to some other cars I have owned which have parking cables going in and out of sleeves under the car just waiting for road rash to remove all the protection...

Doug

Aredubjay · #13 12-10-2002, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mr. Pockets
Another stupid thing I do:

When I was in driver's ed, believe it or not my driving in structor told me to hold the button down while lifting up on the lever. Why? So it wouldn't wear out the teeth that the little pawl catches on. I'm not kidding. How many times a day would you have to park your car to wear out those friggin' teeth over the lifetime of the car?

I don't think that's stupid at all . . . especially since I do it too. I also press the button on my pocketwatch to close it, so I don't wear out the catch and on my transnote computer.

mohrds · #14 12-10-2002, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Aredubjay
I also press the button on my pocketwatch to close it, so I don't wear out the catch.

I do that too. However I do it because the jeweler TOLD me to press it when closing, after paying to have it fixed.

Doug

Beav · #15 12-10-2002, 05:49 PM

My driver's ed teacher told us to make sure that we parked the wipers before turning the car off as they would lose their spring tension if left midway across the windshield. I guess that explains why they bounce up and down when they're in the park position...

If the cables are enclosed from front to rear maybe someone has spilled a coke, etc. in the console and when cold, thick and sticky the switch is reluctant to open. Unfortunately you wouldn't be the first, I've had to clean a few with that problem and it sucks - yuck!