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#91
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http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=GRT
Just to give you guys a teaser of what I've got in mind for when I pick up the SVX next month...and no, I don't mean one. In the interest of cost, I may end up using a pair of e16Gs to start with...they can be had for $400 or so each and make a little more power than the GT30Rs (at the expense of spool time obviously). Methinks an SVX needs two of those to be happy. I intend to have it done by the time the track opens, and I plan on breaking something (and it probably won't be a record) I go to pick up the car from my Uncle in about a month (soonest I can get off work for long enough...holidays at the post office suck!), lots of pictures of the build will be provided. Goal: 500awhp (which should happen with relatively low boost with turbos that big...15psi or less I would think considering that around 19psi does that on my 8:1 3.0L in the VR-4). I will definitely break something at those power levels, but I don't think the engine will be the weakest link (considering it will likely still be rockin' the stock auto tranny for a bit). Yeah, I know I'm insane...but at least you guys will get to laugh at me and marvel at all the pictures of the utter destruction of various stock parts. |
#92
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In all seriousness go for it, but do not get discouraged. You sound like you are up for stuff breaking so I think you are prepared. Good luck....
I guess we should start a race for 400whp. See who gets there first. Then set a race for 500whp...
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Former: 1994 Barcelona Red(x2), 1995 Brilliant Red, 1992 Liquid Silver, 1992 Ebony(x2), 1992 Pearl White (x2) Current: 2017 Ford Raptor 2017 Kawasaki KLR 1995 Guards Red Carrera 1995 Spec-ish Miata - track car 1957 CJ-5 |
#93
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I am always amused by how well some parts that should have disintegrated long ago amazingly hold up to abuse over and over again...I'm also amused when the new, uber-expensive extra strong replacement parts end up breaking easier than the stock stuff.
I like to thrust greatness upon various cars and see how they react to it. That usually involves giving otherwise "normal" cars ridiculous amounts of horsepower. Most of the cars I mess with are on their last leg to begin with, so I like to push their limits a bit first if I'm going to be rebuilding them anyway. |
#94
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I think YT and OT have proven that the piston ring lands will be the first to go...next appears to be main bearings...we'll have to see what happens with the "built" engines. My guess is that HGs will be dropping like flies (once folks get past ~25psi), even with the ARP head studs
-Bill
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Retired NASA Rocket Scientist Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023 Center Network Member #989 '92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33 '92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension '92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place) My Locker |
#95
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How many miles do you have on your turbo? Not many if I remember correctly. Also, we were pushing this on older engines. If the engine is newer, I'm sure the pistons will last longer. I think these are important points to mention to anyone who is planning FI mods, that there could be the future cost of motor work involved. Not every engine is the same exactly. So you could go for very long without having a problem while the other 80% do. That said, I hope you do not have trouble. I'm sure your intercooler probably helps too. That is the one difference between you everyone else who has had problems. I would really like to see you get back on the road and log more miles with your setup, to see if that is the issue. It might be interesting to get some more intercooled datapoints on the stock motor before jumping to the conclusion that I just made.
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Chuck D. 1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - Heavily modded turbo 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX- Turboxs stg3 & Susp. Mods |
#96
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That is backyard tuning though. You get my point though. Turbo = no on my SVX without at least a good sized intercooler.
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Kevin Thomas 1997 2.2ltr Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Wagon (AWD/Auto) 13.03@100mph 1989 2.7ltr Subaru XT6 (AWD/Auto) 15.912@85.93mph 1996 3.3ltr SVX (AWD/Auto) 15.070@91.38mph ***R.I.P*** 2010 RAV4 AWD Sport (13.717 @ 99.19mph ) 2015 Honda Fit LX CVT (15.2 @ 90mph) |
#97
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Chuck D. 1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - Heavily modded turbo 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX- Turboxs stg3 & Susp. Mods |
#98
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Chuck D. 1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - Heavily modded turbo 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX- Turboxs stg3 & Susp. Mods |
#99
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Yes he sounds ready to deal with the car and I am not trying to discourage anyone either from pushing the stock motor. I just don't want some young person with limited funds, who needs the car to get back and forth to school, to go out and blow up his engine based on what I told them. As long as folks have the engine build contingency in mind, have the money and a daily driver to do it, I say go for it.
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Chuck D. 1992 Subaru SVX LS-L - Heavily modded turbo 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX- Turboxs stg3 & Susp. Mods |
#100
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I am indeed a young person with limited funds, but this is by no means a car that I NEED to be running, nor are my funds THAT limited (considering I do everything, and I do mean everything by myself it doesn't really take all that much money even for a complete rebuild). And WTF, mates? No intercoolers? Maybe you don't realize just how hot the air gets. Hell, even my supercharged Camaro WITH a huge intercooler was still blowing pretty damn hot air (and superchargers are generally more efficient in that department than turbos).
I've got a calculator for estimated temps based on turbo efficiency and pressure...and also one for estimating how much an intercooler can cool. With 80F degree under the hood temps, on a turbo of "average" efficiency, 2000ft above sea level, you are looking at turbo outlet temperatures of around 190F. A sufficient intercooler will bring that back down to about 100F. Tell me again you don't need an intercooler at 7psi? We're talking about nearly 375 degrees at the amount of boost I'm planning on running. You can bet each turbo is going to have it's own intercooler in my setup...plus a few other little cooling tricks I've got up my sleeves. |
#101
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Hell, plugged in the math again and even at 4psi in that same scenario you'd be looking at over 150 degrees F...that's not exactly a friendly intake temperature if you ask me.
I would agree that there is a break even point, but that point most likely occurs less than 1psi into boost in most cases. Most intercoolers result in 1 or maybe a couple psi of pressure drop, but some of that is attributed to the drop in temperature...not just the slight restriction it causes, which is negligible really. Last edited by ZephTheChef; 12-18-2007 at 11:08 AM. |
#102
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Yeah the intake temps are nasty with the stage 3. It was estimtated that our intake temps on 12psi are about 225 degrees...
__________________
Former: 1994 Barcelona Red(x2), 1995 Brilliant Red, 1992 Liquid Silver, 1992 Ebony(x2), 1992 Pearl White (x2) Current: 2017 Ford Raptor 2017 Kawasaki KLR 1995 Guards Red Carrera 1995 Spec-ish Miata - track car 1957 CJ-5 |
#103
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In the 3/S world we had a "9-second grand prize fund" which is consequently now the "8-second grand prize fund" which we're a whole 2 hundredths of a second away from at the moment (due to the fact none of the big boys could seem to get a clean pass before the tracks closed). Should we start some sort of prize here...maybe an 11 second fund (or 400whp) to start with? Not that we'd probably have very many donations but it would at least be something to shoot for.
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#104
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sounds about right, I get between 210 and 250 based on a few different ambient temps.
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#105
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Chuck,
I currently have 76XX miles on my car with the turbo system over 2 1/2 years. All very hard miles, if anyone knows me(or has seen my vidoes ) I do not get the SVX out for a saturday stroll to get groceries. I do however as you stated have a lower milage motor in my car. a perfectly running car should be the first step in anyones plunge to FI. You will have ghosts in the closet on a 150K mile motor for almost certainty. Best bet is to at the very least make sure PCV valves, compression, and all of the vacuum system is copesetic. Irreguardless of mileage we are all working with something 12 or so years old, so like Chuck said be sure you are not working from behind the line of scrimmage. When an intercooler becomes a neccestity has EVERYTHING to do with the temperate in the engine as stated below and nothing to do with a set boost level. You and I are both running to small of a compressor housing (yours looks to be a hybrid ~.50 trim impeller housing on a .63 a/r turbine) for peak temperates in the combustion chamber at any boost level. As you stated, the intercooler does not care how much pressure you are running. If you were blowing 5psi of 250 degree air at 30,000 shaft RPMS into the engine(high heat energy, low density), the intercooler will drop that temp substantially and will drop the charge pressure slightly, but increase the charge density greatly. I can touch my intercooler piping after a beat run, anywhere after and even right next to the motor. I am almost certain that would be a third degree burn on an un-intercooled charge pipe, say a boost tube a foot down stream of the impeller. Heat broke the ring lands on your motor. above 7 or so psi of properlly dense air, you begin to work outside of the tensile pressure offsets that a pressurized charge benefits the bottom end. But i think i have rambled enough. Anyway around it, the built motor would be the best bet for anyone wanting to make big reliable power. Isnt it always I will the drive the car as is with maybe a bit larger turbo, but I will not be dumping into the built motor. Its not worth the amount of time and money to me.
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~Phil Teal 1992 Subaru SVX Turbo - Sold in May 2011 to peace-frog. |
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