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  #1  
Old 08-21-2001, 07:37 PM
uconnscott
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Unhappy Check Engine Light Stays on Periodicly

Finally got the SVX out of the shop (went from a troubled $7k car to a really cool 11.5k black '92 Ls-L) Now it is out of the shop. I unfortunatly have 2 new problems.

1. My Check engine light has for the past 3 days come on each morning I drive my car, and stay for around 20-60 minutes. It will then shut off for the rest of the night.

2. My Security System/Keyless entry isn't working, the remotes do nothing. They were both working before the car was at the shops (mechanic then auto body) and now neither remote works. I did put a new battery in one, but to no avail.

I have called the local Subaru dealer (Suburban Subaru in Vernon, CT) and I set up an appointment to them to at least diagnos each problem (at a $68 charge each!) Anyway, I am wondering if any fellow SVXers have had similar problems or have any Idea what may be causing them.

I have spent so much money on this car already that there is no turning back now and I just want to get it right! It is a great ride and the looks I get in this car are worth the cash and then some! Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 08-21-2001, 07:49 PM
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Seraph Seraph is offline
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spending so much money on the SVX? are you kidding? Join the group. SVX does cost some money to fix. It's the cost you have to pay for owning a nice sweet ride.

Lwin
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  #3  
Old 08-21-2001, 10:02 PM
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vkykam vkykam is offline
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Re: Check Engine Light Stays on Periodicly

There are instructions on how to pull the check engine codes from a pre-OBDII SVX. Do a search on the forum or the message archive to find it. But here's the condensed version:

- Remove the driver side kick panel (panel next to the left foot rest, where the fuse box lives)
- Find blue wire, and plug into black connector, top row (top row being side with notch), 2nd hole from left to right
- Turn key to on position (without starting the car)
- Count blinks on dash board check engine light. Long blinks is 10, short blinks is 1, add them up to get code. CE light may display multiple codes
- Look around the forum for the definition for the codes.

Pic of the black connector is available courtesy of Aredubjay at http://briefcase.yahoo.com/aredubjay.

I should make the whole procedure into an mpg and post it up here. Just don't have the time.

As for the security system, what was the car in the mechanic/body shop for? Maybe they disconnected something and forgot to plug it back in?

VK

Quote:
Originally posted by uconnscott
Finally got the SVX out of the shop (went from a troubled $7k car to a really cool 11.5k black '92 Ls-L) Now it is out of the shop. I unfortunatly have 2 new problems.

1. My Check engine light has for the past 3 days come on each morning I drive my car, and stay for around 20-60 minutes. It will then shut off for the rest of the night.

2. My Security System/Keyless entry isn't working, the remotes do nothing. They were both working before the car was at the shops (mechanic then auto body) and now neither remote works. I did put a new battery in one, but to no avail.

I have called the local Subaru dealer (Suburban Subaru in Vernon, CT) and I set up an appointment to them to at least diagnos each problem (at a $68 charge each!) Anyway, I am wondering if any fellow SVXers have had similar problems or have any Idea what may be causing them.

I have spent so much money on this car already that there is no turning back now and I just want to get it right! It is a great ride and the looks I get in this car are worth the cash and then some! Thanks.
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  #4  
Old 08-21-2001, 11:08 PM
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Aredubjay Aredubjay is offline
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Looks like victor has taken care of the one question. More than likely, you've got a faulty oxygen sensor. That's what the CE problem usually is, but, run the codes to make sure.

As for the security system, sometimes when the battery has been disconnected for a long period of time, it will lose programming. Get in the car, turn the security system off (no blinking in security switch) and turn the ignition on (don't start the car, just turn the switch to the "on" position, and then, off). Immediately begin to push the security rapidly until you hear a couple of quick blips from the horn and a clicking coming from the glove box. Press the button on one remote twice (the horn will sound with each press to confirm receipt of the codes), then, press the button on the second remote three times (again, the horn will beep to confirm signal receipt), then, turn the ignition switch to the on position and off again to remove the system from "program" mode. Pretty simple, huh?
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  #5  
Old 08-21-2001, 11:15 PM
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vkykam vkykam is offline
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Dood, maybe it's just me, and you know what my car repair history has been, but I've had O2 Sensors (left and right), knock sensors (left and right), IAC valve, and others showing up at some time in the past. Best to pull codes and see what it may RELATE to. For example, my IAC valve code was actually caused by an air leak going to the airbox above the throttle body.

The only things I've replaced relating to it is 1 O2 sensor and 1 knock sensor.

As for the security system, I've had the battery disconnected overnight, and it still seems to hold. But I guess it's possible.

I think I need to make an .mpg file for the remote programming too. Quite a few were confused by the posted instructions, and it's one of those things where a picture is worth a thousand words.

VK


Quote:
Originally posted by Aredubjay
Looks like victor has taken care of the one question. More than likely, you've got a faulty oxygen sensor. That's what the CE problem usually is, but, run the codes to make sure.

As for the security system, sometimes when the battery has been disconnected for a long period of time, it will lose programming. Get in the car, turn the security system off (no blinking in security switch) and turn the ignition on (don't start the car, just turn the switch to the "on" position, and then, off). Immediately begin to push the security rapidly until you hear a couple of quick blips from the horn and a clicking coming from the glove box. Press the button on one remote twice (the horn will sound with each press to confirm receipt of the codes), then, press the button on the second remote three times (again, the horn will beep to confirm signal receipt), then, turn the ignition switch to the on position and off again to remove the system from "program" mode. Pretty simple, huh?
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  #6  
Old 08-21-2001, 11:24 PM
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Aredubjay Aredubjay is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by vkykam
Dood, maybe it's just me, and you know what my car repair history has been, but I've had O2 Sensors (left and right), knock sensors (left and right), IAC valve, and others showing up at some time in the past. Best to pull codes and see what it may RELATE to. For example, my IAC valve code was actually caused by an air leak going to the airbox above the throttle body.

The only things I've replaced relating to it is 1 O2 sensor and 1 knock sensor.

As for the security system, I've had the battery disconnected overnight, and it still seems to hold. But I guess it's possible.

I think I need to make an .mpg file for the remote programming too. Quite a few were confused by the posted instructions, and it's one of those things where a picture is worth a thousand words.

VK


Yes, that's why I said to pull the codes to make sure. But, for the past two years that I've been following this silly obsession, the majority of the time, people have gotten an O2 sensor code. But, YES, pull the codes to make sure.

I've had my battery disconnected for DAYS at a time and not lost programming, but, SOMETIMES, it happens. Especially if, perhaps, a latent wire was grounded during repair. Plus, trying to reprogram doesn't cost 68.00 -- go cheap first before you pays your money.
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1992 SVX PPG Pace Car Replica 110+k
1993 White Impreza L 240+K miles
2001 Legacy Outback Limited Sedan 250+K miles
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  #7  
Old 08-23-2001, 01:16 PM
uconnscott
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I tried securtiy fix

I tried the security programming method suggested by the moderator to no avail..........I put the car on.....then off, and quickley pushed the security butten (on dash left of stearing wheel) rapidly for a long time (30 seconds at most), but no horn beeping or cliking was present.....I then tried to hit the buttons on both my remotes as suggested, but nothing happend.

There was never any short beeps or cliks. I tried differnt variations Aredubjay's fix for over 30 minutes to no avail. I am schedualed to take the car in tomarrow to have the dealer look at it. Any clarification from anybody on how to get to programming mode would be very helpful.

As far as the CE light goes, I drove it all day and it didn't go on once.........It did yesterday and the day before though.......I am wondering if is is due to being at the shops for so long and now it will be all set.

Anyway I really appreciate all of the feedback. This site is outstanding. (having graduated with an MIS degree at UCONN I can really appreciate it). Unless I hear anything further I will drop the $140 and hopefully get things straight (then I have to attack that darned visor, it is sagging BAD). Also putting in all new speakers and CD/MP3 player Saturday, had to be done. I love the ride so much that I know it is worth all the money and effort.

Thanks again for the support!
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  #8  
Old 08-23-2001, 01:30 PM
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Re: I tried securtiy fix

Quote:
Originally posted by uconnscott
I tried the security programming method suggested by the moderator to no avail..........I put the car on.....then off, and quickley pushed the security butten (on dash left of stearing wheel) rapidly for a long time (30 seconds at most), but no horn beeping or cliking was present.....I then tried to hit the buttons on both my remotes as suggested, but nothing happend.

There was never any short beeps or cliks. I tried differnt variations Aredubjay's fix for over 30 minutes to no avail. I am schedualed to take the car in tomarrow to have the dealer look at it. Any clarification from anybody on how to get to programming mode would be very helpful.

As far as the CE light goes, I drove it all day and it didn't go on once.........It did yesterday and the day before though.......I am wondering if is is due to being at the shops for so long and now it will be all set.

Anyway I really appreciate all of the feedback. This site is outstanding. (having graduated with an MIS degree at UCONN I can really appreciate it). Unless I hear anything further I will drop the $140 and hopefully get things straight (then I have to attack that darned visor, it is sagging BAD). Also putting in all new speakers and CD/MP3 player Saturday, had to be done. I love the ride so much that I know it is worth all the money and effort.

Thanks again for the support!
Oh well, that's the only way to get into the programming mode. Now, you did make sure the security switch was in the OFF position before turning the car on/off -- right? Is the security button blinking at all?

This has actually been an all too common problem with the security system on this car. Mine went by the wayside in the same manner -- I wound up installing a used replacment unit and haven't had trouble since.

The problem also seems to occur after a visit to the shop. I don't know what that might have to do with it, but, this has happened more than a couple of times, as I recall.

Whatever has caused it (if your shop can figure it out), please be sure to post here. I think Colin Riley (montypython, aka criley) had the same difficulty . . . and there are probably others. Please let us know what you find out.
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3rd Registered Member 02-21-2001
First Member to Reach 10,000 Posts
First to arrive at the very first Reading Meet
Subaru Ambassador

1992 SVX PPG Pace Car Replica 110+k
1993 White Impreza L 240+K miles
2001 Legacy Outback Limited Sedan 250+K miles
2013 Deep Indigo Pearl Legacy 3.6R 49+K miles

"Reading is my favorite Holiday"
Mike Davis -- at Reading VI
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  #9  
Old 08-23-2001, 02:55 PM
uconnscott
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Thumbs up

yep, security was off.

goin in the shop first thing tomarrow, will let you all know.....and I will mention the drooping visor to see if it gets me anywhere.....
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