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#1
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Getting engine ready for 100 shot
My engine currently has 194k miles on it. It had a sticky lifter that was resolved with MMO and it has an oil leak that needs to be fixed. Id like to install a 100 shot this summer. With an engine with these kind of miles what would you gurus recommend be done to the engine to make it safe to run nitrous and stay running for many more miles?
Should I replace the headgasket? replace piston rings and hone the bores?
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] STi BBS wheels,legacy gt 4.44, 3" catback exhaust, Stance GR+ 7k/5k, QS Teflon adjustable endlinks, Hankook EVO 245/40/17, 95-LS escaine seats, GC8 V7 steering wheel, JDM clear corners, small car clear lenses, Alcyone badge, JDM rear taillight, 97 grille, stevesby bumper, PWR radiator, Perrin Crank pulley, Urethane Swaybar bushings, urethane diff bushings, DDM 6k 55watt lows and 4500k 35watt fog lights; $15/15min mod, Motorsport whs 22mm rear swaybar, QC shift kit, ToMyx intake, z32 aluminum calipers 13" rotors, nitrous express proton + wet kit. |
#2
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don't use a 100 shot... 75dry has been the safetly limit for most without reducing timing. If you are going wet... 100 shot should be ok but make sure the engine is in good running condition
Tom |
#3
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I was planning on a wet shot. I know these engines have been known to go 250k+ but what areas should I look to replace just to make sure it lasts for many more miles. What usually goes on these engines first?
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] STi BBS wheels,legacy gt 4.44, 3" catback exhaust, Stance GR+ 7k/5k, QS Teflon adjustable endlinks, Hankook EVO 245/40/17, 95-LS escaine seats, GC8 V7 steering wheel, JDM clear corners, small car clear lenses, Alcyone badge, JDM rear taillight, 97 grille, stevesby bumper, PWR radiator, Perrin Crank pulley, Urethane Swaybar bushings, urethane diff bushings, DDM 6k 55watt lows and 4500k 35watt fog lights; $15/15min mod, Motorsport whs 22mm rear swaybar, QC shift kit, ToMyx intake, z32 aluminum calipers 13" rotors, nitrous express proton + wet kit. |
#4
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If you want your motor to last longer, do not put nitrous in it
Tom |
#5
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Unless you plan on replacing your tranny with the police special platinum edition, I wouldn't go there.
__________________
Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#6
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i was kinda hoping to offset the decrease in life from nitrous by replacing the parts that see the most wear from age. But im not sure if i should reconsider.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] STi BBS wheels,legacy gt 4.44, 3" catback exhaust, Stance GR+ 7k/5k, QS Teflon adjustable endlinks, Hankook EVO 245/40/17, 95-LS escaine seats, GC8 V7 steering wheel, JDM clear corners, small car clear lenses, Alcyone badge, JDM rear taillight, 97 grille, stevesby bumper, PWR radiator, Perrin Crank pulley, Urethane Swaybar bushings, urethane diff bushings, DDM 6k 55watt lows and 4500k 35watt fog lights; $15/15min mod, Motorsport whs 22mm rear swaybar, QC shift kit, ToMyx intake, z32 aluminum calipers 13" rotors, nitrous express proton + wet kit. |
#7
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Quote:
__________________
Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#8
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Quote:
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] STi BBS wheels,legacy gt 4.44, 3" catback exhaust, Stance GR+ 7k/5k, QS Teflon adjustable endlinks, Hankook EVO 245/40/17, 95-LS escaine seats, GC8 V7 steering wheel, JDM clear corners, small car clear lenses, Alcyone badge, JDM rear taillight, 97 grille, stevesby bumper, PWR radiator, Perrin Crank pulley, Urethane Swaybar bushings, urethane diff bushings, DDM 6k 55watt lows and 4500k 35watt fog lights; $15/15min mod, Motorsport whs 22mm rear swaybar, QC shift kit, ToMyx intake, z32 aluminum calipers 13" rotors, nitrous express proton + wet kit. |
#9
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Quote:
Throw a 5mt in there first.
__________________
Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#10
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financially and time wise a 5spd isnt really an option. And with a 100 shot an svx shouldnt put out much more that 350tq. And due to drivetrain shock and the fact that modded wrx have alot of transmission trouble id think that a 5spd would wear just as fast with nitrous.
I also know SVX files has a 4eat SCed car so i would think that vouches for the strength
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] STi BBS wheels,legacy gt 4.44, 3" catback exhaust, Stance GR+ 7k/5k, QS Teflon adjustable endlinks, Hankook EVO 245/40/17, 95-LS escaine seats, GC8 V7 steering wheel, JDM clear corners, small car clear lenses, Alcyone badge, JDM rear taillight, 97 grille, stevesby bumper, PWR radiator, Perrin Crank pulley, Urethane Swaybar bushings, urethane diff bushings, DDM 6k 55watt lows and 4500k 35watt fog lights; $15/15min mod, Motorsport whs 22mm rear swaybar, QC shift kit, ToMyx intake, z32 aluminum calipers 13" rotors, nitrous express proton + wet kit. |
#11
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#12
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Which is actually weaker than the SVX 4eat... Listen, the trans is the least of your worries. The stock trans will hold it no problem but it's the motor you need to worry about. Nitrous in good working order is just more horsepower when you want it. The thing is, it will hasten the demise of your engine due to simple breakdown of parts. Extra Tq will cause extra stress on things like rod bearings which will wear out much quicker if the hp is increased be it nitrous or FI. It's simple, if you need your car as a daily driver and want to keep the engine ticking as long as possible, do not use nitrous Tom |
#13
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Quote:
Stephen |
#14
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I may just save my money and buy a used motor if the current one blows. I know the blocks on these motors must be split to reach the main bearings, does this require a special tool?
I was considering doing a fresh rebuild of all seals, head gaskets, rod and main bearings, piston rings, and maybe having the rods shotpeened.
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] STi BBS wheels,legacy gt 4.44, 3" catback exhaust, Stance GR+ 7k/5k, QS Teflon adjustable endlinks, Hankook EVO 245/40/17, 95-LS escaine seats, GC8 V7 steering wheel, JDM clear corners, small car clear lenses, Alcyone badge, JDM rear taillight, 97 grille, stevesby bumper, PWR radiator, Perrin Crank pulley, Urethane Swaybar bushings, urethane diff bushings, DDM 6k 55watt lows and 4500k 35watt fog lights; $15/15min mod, Motorsport whs 22mm rear swaybar, QC shift kit, ToMyx intake, z32 aluminum calipers 13" rotors, nitrous express proton + wet kit. |
#15
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not to be a dick... but do you know what that will take to do?? Do you know how much parts alone will cost?? Might make u reconsider
Tom |
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