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  #1  
Old 06-23-2005, 07:21 PM
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svxcess svxcess is offline
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Electrical Gremlin

My 96 LSi has had an electrical system which was operating FLAWLESSLY. Every bulb works, all switches operate as designed, alternator cranks out 14 V and I never had an electrical problem of any sort.

Last week I took my car to the Subaru dealer. I had a "check engine" light and it turned out to be Knock Sensor #1. I know the tech had to pull the alternator to get to it and whetever else was in the way. He replaced it, cleared the codes and all seemed to be well...

BUT

About 2 hours later I tried to use the front wipers and they didn't work. I figured somehow I blew a fuse and replaced it. Every time I put a 15amp fuse in the #2 slot (front wiper) in the fuse panel under the dash and turn on the ignition, it blows. I have no idea if there is a relationship between this and whatever the dealer did. I also have no idea where to start in trying to diagnose this problem. Currently, my rear wiper/washer and front wipers/washer don't work.

As I said earlier, I never had an electrical problem ever. My wipers, front and rear, always worked perfectly. It wasn't until I tried to use the washer that I discovered the problem.

Any help, insight or suggestions are truly appreciated.
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1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD

JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan

In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



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HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler.


R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.


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Last edited by svxcess; 07-10-2005 at 06:59 PM.
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  #2  
Old 06-26-2005, 05:46 PM
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svxxx26 svxxx26 is offline
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Any luck finding your electrical gremlins?
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  #3  
Old 06-26-2005, 07:18 PM
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thundering02 thundering02 is offline
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Take it back and make the dealer fix it cause they did it. And did you figure it out?
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  #4  
Old 06-26-2005, 07:48 PM
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svxcess svxcess is offline
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I just cannot figure out what they did that would cause ONLY that one circuit to fail. Every other switch and light works normally. I thought that if they caused the problem I would have a lot more going on.

I don't think that switches normally fail, so I don't think it is in my wiper switch. Plus the wiper fuse blows when I turn the ignition switch to the on position (I see it arc in the fuse panel) This is when the wiper switch on the column is turned off.

Its going in tomorrow so we shall see. I thought someone here might have insight on what to check.
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Subaru Ambassador

1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD

JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan

In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



"The Pristine Green Polo Machine”
First Polo Green on the Network
First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000)
First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007)
First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013)

HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler.


R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.


4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001

My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX .

.
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  #5  
Old 06-26-2005, 08:09 PM
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SubaSteevo SubaSteevo is offline
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  #6  
Old 06-26-2005, 08:17 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svxcess
I just cannot figure out what they did that would cause ONLY that one circuit to fail. Every other switch and light works normally. I thought that if they caused the problem I would have a lot more going on.

I don't think that switches normally fail, so I don't think it is in my wiper switch. Plus the wiper fuse blows when I turn the ignition switch to the on position (I see it arc in the fuse panel) This is when the wiper switch on the column is turned off.

Its going in tomorrow so we shall see. I thought someone here might have insight on what to check.
Bit of a curly one John. The only thing that I can see, is the rear wiper relay, it has a diode in it, across the winding. If it was shorted it would cause a short to blow the fuse. Pull the relay, see if it still blows the fuse. Can't see anything else, see what the Dealer finds.

Harvey.
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  #7  
Old 06-26-2005, 09:20 PM
lee lee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oab_au
Bit of a curly one John. The only thing that I can see, is the rear wiper relay, it has a diode in it, across the winding. If it was shorted it would cause a short to blow the fuse. Pull the relay, see if it still blows the fuse. Can't see anything else, see what the Dealer finds.

Harvey.
to add to Harvey's idea, you might try unplugging the rear wiper/wash pump motor - according to the wiring diagram I have only two things are hooked to #2, the relay and the pump.
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