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#16
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Re: '92 SVX burning out ignition modules?
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Hopefully, there will be an image attached to this post. Thanks again for all your input. |
#17
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Re: '92 SVX burning out ignition modules?
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This has become very confusing but after a lengthy effort things are beginning to make sense. Your car is obviously different to the wiring diagram I have and does not have the plug in the loom which I have referred to and the positive voltage for the coils as you have correctly ascertained, is supplied via the wire you are unable to trace. NOTE: What is more I now find that the connections as shown for the elusive plug/socket connector on the diagram I have (page 6-3 of the 1992 Service Manual, Section 6) are damn and damn it, wrong! It is no wonder that we have become confused as hell :-( In practice the connector has probably not been included for this very good reason! On the basis of your advice I can now make sense of what is the actual correct wiring. :-) Looking at the 7 pin plug fitting into the igniter, pins 1 - 6 are trigger circuits to the coils, pin 7 is ground but only at the igniter socket via wiring from the igniter to a specific remote ground point, so as to prevent a ground loop collecting interference. Therefore, when measuring between any of plug pins 1 - 6 and ground with the plug disconnected from the exciter, you are measuring a virtual open open circuit, as you have correctly suspected. In order measure the resistance of each coil, you will need to measure between each pins 1 - 6 and the positive battery supply connection, which will be the wire which you have been able to identify as going to a positive source. With the plug removed from the igniter stick a needle or pin right through the insulation and with the ignition on check that there is full battery voltage. Then with the ignition off or better still with battery negative disconnected, measure from this same point to each of the six pins connected to the coils in order to read the resistances which will include the connecting wires and meter leads. Make sure you do not hold the needle connection and impose body resistance. If you find anything suspect you can then remove the coils and check them directly as well as the connecting wiring. You are showing that you understand exactly what is involved. Man, oh, man this is taking some sorting as the gods have been against us, but a you are saving money as a Subaru agent would probably have told you, "you need a new engine I'll give you a quote". LOL Patience! Cheers, Trevor. P.S. ---- Testing the Igniter after proving the coils and wiring is OK. You are testing for a square wave output switched in short pulses involving close to 12 volts. The test would best be performed using an oscilloscope or a meter with a bar-graph, as the reaction time inherent in a normal meter will not allow it to properly catch and register very short pulses. However using a normal meter and taking this into account, you should be able to detect a signal while cranking the engine. You must test for voltage between ground and each of the circuits running to the coils and the test must be carried out with the coils connected and in circuit, so that they provide a return path to battery positive. This makes things rather awkward as you have no exposed points of connection and you will probably have to resort to the needle/pin trick. Expect to measure pulses of approximately 12 volts DC, connect the leads between each of the leads and ground and with the engine cranking observe for a pulsating voltage. This may not reach 12 volts due to the inherent delay, but will provide a valuable indication that all is well. You are in fact measuring the switching of the coils on and off ground and voltage arrives via the coil when the solid state switch is open. Test both of the igniters you have and it will not be necessary to bolt them in place as the case ground is not required. For this sort of work test leads with clips rather than prods are near essential and you should acquire or make up a set. Clip leads are really an essential accessory in respect off a multimeter.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! Last edited by Trevor; 10-04-2018 at 01:54 PM. Reason: P.S. Added |
#18
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Re: '92 SVX burning out ignition modules?
Well, I finally got around to measuring the resistance of the new coils - it's easiest just to disconnect them at the color-coded, 2-wire connectors that the coils come with, and I found that they're all in the range of 1.5-1.6 ohms; after subtracting the internal resistance of the meter (0.8 ohms), they all come in at about 0.7-0.8 ohms. I also checked all the old coils, and they are also in that range. I don't have an oscilloscope to measure square wave pulses and stuff like that, but I know someone who does. He's a young fellow who is a Subaru fanatic, goes to school at a local college for an auto tech degree, and owns a WRX-STI. Since I've already spent $1000 on coils and igniters and I'm getting nowhere on a car that's worth about $1500 running (and about $15 not running), I just gave him the car as a project. If he gets it running and doesn't want to keep it, I'll buy it back. If/when I find out the details of what's actually wrong with it, I'll add an update. Thanks everyone for all your hints.
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#19
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Re: '92 SVX burning out ignition modules?
Can someone help me with some guidance on how to get the coil pack unplugged from its mating connector? It is wicked tight in there and I can't get the damn thing to budge. I am trying to get off the top white one on the driver's side (cylinder 2). I see that the three connector pairs are on a bracket of some sort. Do I need to get the connector pair off the bracket or just the coil pack side connector off the wiring harness connector? If I need to get the pair off the bracket, do I need to get the bracket off the engine to make that possible?
On the below pic, there is a tab on the coil pack side connector. It looks like there is a mating tab on the wiring harness side connector that might engage with this tab. I tried pushing the tab on the wiring harness side connector in and pulling on the coil pack connector but it would NOT budge.
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Tony 1996 Polo Green Subaru SVX LSi, 168,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF, Redline 75W90 gear oil, K&N HP-4001 Oil Filter, Mobil 1 5W50 FS (3qt) and 5W30 High Mileage (4qt) Oil Blend, Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid, AC Delco A975C Air Filter, NGK BKR6EIX-11 plugs, Centric Rotors, Power Stop Evolution Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads 2005 Gray Acura RL, 165,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF with Lubegard Platinum Protectant, Mobil 1 5W20 High Mileage Extended Performance Oil 2009 Red Toyota Venza, 123,XXX, Mobil 1 5W30 High Mileage Oil 1992 Red Ferrari 348 ts, 82,XXX, Redline everything |
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