ECUtune Stage III development - Page 48

TomsSVX · #**706** 11-26-2007, 10:21 AM

i am not going to bother. This kit is ideal for a stock motor on no more than 9psi. On my motor is doing more bad than good. I am so fed up with it I want it off

Tom

svxistentialist · #**707** 11-26-2007, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

i am not going to bother. This kit is ideal for a stock motor on no more than 9psi. On my motor is doing more bad than good. I am so fed up with it I want it off

Tom

Why are you fed up with it Tom? Any specific problems?

Joe

TomsSVX · #**708** 11-26-2007, 03:34 PM

well it pulls timing regardless of the pulley size now. I have put the 9psi pulley back on my built motor and it is still picking up knock. i need to take some time and install the "new" software Mike sent me but I am not crossing my fingers for this one. I have had the system for over a year and with the level of effort and income placed into making big power with this, it is just not performing to 1/2 my expectations. I am severely disappointed in this right now.

Tom

porschekiller · #**709** 11-26-2007, 03:46 PM

All the more reason to run nitrous on a low compression ccrengine.

TomsSVX · #**710** 11-26-2007, 04:21 PM

I plan on running a single turbo. Not nitrous

Tom

jman050 · #**711** 11-26-2007, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

I plan on running a single turbo. Not nitrous

Tom

good luck....large single turbo ej25s have been proven 600-mid 700 wheel hp already....so if the eg33 heads were able to flow enough i don't see any reason we cant see similar numbers

TomsSVX · #**712** 11-26-2007, 04:31 PM

well thats why I am selling my stage III. Like I have said before, it is great on a stock motored SVX. But for my wants and desires for the money I have spent thus far, this is not cutting it like I was told it would

Tom

svxistentialist · #**713** 11-26-2007, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

well it pulls timing regardless of the pulley size now. I have put the 9psi pulley back on my built motor and it is still picking up knock. i need to take some time and install the "new" software Mike sent me but I am not crossing my fingers for this one. I have had the system for over a year and with the level of effort and income placed into making big power with this, it is just not performing to 1/2 my expectations. I am severely disappointed in this right now.

Tom

Tom, did you read the other thread where Tony [desertrunner] from Oz was discussing knock sensors?

It's possible the meshing of the rotors or the geared drives are putting out a sound that the knock sensor circuits interpret as detonation.

To work properly it may require a change to a different type of knock sensor. Another possible fix I conjectured was to move the knock sensors to the underside of the block, away from the "noise"

You won't get this type of audio interference from a turbo, as it revs way too high to give a signal close in amplitude to detonation sounds, which will run simultaneous to engine revs.

There has to be a simple solution to this, it is a fairly simple problem.

Joe

TomsSVX · #**714** 11-26-2007, 07:09 PM

I am fairly confident this is the issue as well. But it is still not going to help me push the envelope power wise. I need to get some time to tinker and with graduation a little over a week away and moving the shop and moving from my apartment I don't have a ton of free time. So once again, I am left to figure out the issues... which is part of my problem

Tom

svxistentialist · #**715** 11-26-2007, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

I am fairly confident this is the issue as well. But it is still not going to help me push the envelope power wise. I need to get some time to tinker and with graduation a little over a week away and moving the shop and moving from my apartment I don't have a ton of free time. So once again, I am left to figure out the issues... which is part of my problem

Tom

Here is a suggestion; Use a standalone knock sensor, probably on the lower side of the block, and do away with the two on topside.

By "do away with" I mean take out of use. Leave the circuit in place to keep the ecu happy, but insulate them from the block.

Get the standalone one underneath to control timing using a piggyback. If it is done properly [and using Trevor's idea of an audio circuit to identify detonation conditions to ensure that the stand-alone knock sensor is hearing them also] it will safeguard the engine, while allowing for higher boost.

I think.

Joe

sicksubie · #**716** 11-26-2007, 07:21 PM

Even if we corrected the "knock" issue we still will not be making the desired power level. The blower is too small plain and simple...

TomsSVX · #**717** 11-26-2007, 07:22 PM

well I know audible knock is no way to tune an engine but I plan on doing something similar. I am want to tie the knock sensor off the intake while still plugged in with an insulated wire attached to a bolt. This wire will lead to the engine to supply the ground I believe it needs to operate properly. This should give me a better idea of whats happening without spending even more on the car just to troubleshoot.

More importantly I bought a kit because I wouldn't have to make things myself. Granted there was a lot of work behind this kit, but to have it on the car for over a year running numerous different test and even blowing up a motor doing it... I would say the "kit" aspect that drew me to this system is gone and I would rather start over and do it myself.

Tom

svxistentialist · #**718** 11-26-2007, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sicksubie

Even if we corrected the "knock" issue we still will not be making the desired power level. The blower is too small plain and simple...

I know I asked you about this before. Which blower is in use? Is it the Whipple 1600?

If so, the theoretical power output with either water/alcohol injection, or excellent charge cooling maxes at 400-420 hp, which I think is plenty. It won't do 440 crank.

This is using my famous spreadsheet.

The twin screw runs cool, but at high boost [14-15 in this case for these horsepowers] it needs good cooling to deliver all the power.

You guys know this is the way to big power with turbos. It is no different with a PD pump.

Don't let the fact that it runs cooler than a Roots fool you into the notion that it does not need charge cooling. Because it does.

Joe

TomsSVX · #**719** 11-26-2007, 07:50 PM

Yes but it really should not need cooling at 9psi to avoid knock. The only solution provided was when i had suggested noise from the blower causing the sensors to pull timing.

Tom

sicksubie · #**720** 11-26-2007, 08:17 PM

There is no way to cool the stage 3 either. Methanol is a possibility, but all this work and dumping a lot of meth into my car for what? 400whp? The blower is still way beyond it's efficiency range. If I cannot sell it I will put it on my red car on 9psi with cams and methanol and that car will be a 270-300whp fun car. For my silver I want more than fun. The stage 3 will not get me to that level without dumping insane amounts of methanol into the motor along with a LOT of tuning and writing new software.

PS it is a 1600 blower