Twin Turbo EG33 Build - cozykat

[cozykat]

This a thread where I can try to document my build with information, images (stored on photobucket), and cost.

The plan: rebuild eg33 - lowering compression to 9:1 and going with forged internals, run standalone ecu (hydra), add twin turbos (something like two T2560), and update exhaust.

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Initially, I was rebuilding my engine because I thought the engine was experiencing rod bearing failure. Once we started taking my engine apart, Shaun noticed that my flex plate had a thin V-shaped crack in the center (noticeable when directly pushing on it). So we think this is most likely the reason for the horrible noise @ 4000rpm instead of bearing failure.

4 reasons I decided to continue with the rebuild:
1. my engine was already out on a stand
2. we weren't 100% sure that the flex plate was problem or just a coincidence and I didn't want to swap engines again only to immediately need to swap for a 3rd time.
3. Shaun's '92, 90k engine runs significantly better than my '93 150k engine in my car which told me my car could run better even with a simple rebuild.
4. the excitement of the rebuild had already got a hold of me.


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Engine Rebuild Projected Costs (your prices may vary):
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Swapping engines (~$230 - Fluids, Gaskets, hoses, clamps)
Subaru Gasket Kit ($250.00)
Eagle-H Rods ($465.00)
Crankshaft ACL Bearings ($200.00)
CP 9:1 Forged Pistons w/ pins and rings ($948.00 / $1896 for Shaun and I together)
ARP Studs (long/short) ($320.00)
Outlaw Phenolic Spacers ($115.00)
GrimSpeed Ported Exhaust ($280.00)
Cometic Head Gasket Set ($190.00)
Hydra + wideband (optional) (~$TBA)
STI injector set (550cc) ($360)
Cams (~$600) - still to do
Walbro Fuel Pump 255lph ($84)
Custom Exhaust (~$TBA)
Machine work: Total w/ misc parts ($870)
Stock Crank - Polish/Balance (~$70.00)
Stock EG33 Block - Bore to 98mm ($140.00)
Heads - Resurfaced/Check Align Bore ($170.00)
Intake/Exhaust Valve Seals (~$105.60)
Valve Job($150)/Replace Valve Guides($50)
Balance Engine (with pistons, rods, crank) ($150.00)

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Current Status:
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2009.01.17.SA/SU: So far, Shaun (YourConfused), Matt and I have removed my engine and swapped in Shaun's spare from his 92 (so I can still drive my SVX while her heart is being worked on).
Swap cost: ~$230 to replace fluids, hoses that broke due to age, etc.

2009.03.14.SA: We've have torn the engine down and are waiting for a slot to open up at the machine shop (3 week waiting period).
Cost: blood, sweat, and cursing

2009.10.09: Got my block back from Duffin Engine Service machine shop. yay! Looks great, except the block isn't as clean as I wanted it so I'm taking it to get soda blasted when I get some free time and $.

lots of time passed...

2014.2.18.TU: I'm back at it.. Picked up STeeL25T's Hydra, cleaned up long block, hard lines, and coated with motor paint (fuel resistant,etc)
Cleaned and assembly restarted

long block assembly complete

more to follow...

[Crazy_pilot]

Go for it!!!

*subscribed*

[Splinter]

Why not go to something a little more boost friendly like an 8 or 8.5 tops?

[longassname]

All sounds very good to me, right down to your turbo choice. You're going a similar route to me. I'm doing the same thing except with m24 garrett turbos and my own engine management with an svx maf stuck on the inlet of each turbo and an hks or hks knock off foam filter on each maf. Water injection, no intercooler.

[tubbstcg]

Sounds great hopefully this idea will come to life. Two thumbs up.

[jakea]

sounds like a dream, be sure to post exhaust routing pictures!!!!

[Crazy_pilot]

With compression numbers and turbo sizes like that, I'm guessing you're aiming more at a nice driveable torque curve than crazy peak power numbers?

[subbieatnz]

Good luck. watching this thread closely

[cozykat]

Originally Posted by Splinter

Why not go to something a little more boost friendly like an 8 or 8.5 tops?

As I understand, 8/8.5:1 compression may be boost friendlier but it will effect my low-end torque more. I think our more technical members could better explain why than myself. I want more power and higher-end torque without sacrificing a lot of my low-end torque. OT, Shaun, and a couple of STI (one EVO) guys seem to agree that dropping to 9:1 is a good medium for our engines. It will only decrease the stock 230bhp by ~4% (or ~9bhp) and I probably will not notice since the block will be bored, have head work, etc to improve flow.

Originally Posted by longassname

All sounds very good to me, right down to your turbo choice. You're going a similar route to me. I'm doing the same thing except with m24 garrett turbos and my own engine management with an svx maf stuck on the inlet of each turbo and an hks or hks knock off foam filter on each maf. Water injection, no intercooler.

Thanks, I have been trying to plan this out carefully so I don't get slapped with too many surprises. The most difficult was deciding what I wanted to ultimately accomplish and then look at how I should go about it. Watching cost has also been important as it sure builds up and it's easy to get carried away - I try to reality-check myself periodically. I will post my costs as they arise to better help others plan their own build. I think what eats my budget the most is the hydra. While conveniently awesome, its a good portion of my projected $6k cost (not including another $2k+ for the turbo setup). I wanted to try and setup my own engine management system but with projects/work, finishing my masters, etc it's like: "what free time? oh you mean sleep!"

I am considering meth injection but am holding off that decision until I am actually in the process of the turbo. Will you also be installing a tank that includes a level sensor, or installing a water pressure gauge?

Originally Posted by Crazy_pilot

With compression numbers and turbo sizes like that, I'm guessing you're aiming more at a nice driveable torque curve than crazy peak power numbers?

Yup, I don't plan on ever making this a track/race car just use as daily driver. My goal is to hit maybe 300whp if I make a little +/-, I don't mind.

[longassname]

i'm driving around on 8.5 compression na right now. It's not so bad. You can feel comfortable going that low if you want. It will certainly give you more cushion to not need charge cooling as much.

[longassname]

I think your turbo choice is good. The installation will be much cleaner this way than trying to fit a bigger turbo or turbos in. I think your car will actually end up being twice the car that a less realistic build would end up producing.

I think you'll find by the time you get to needing to purchase engine management you'll be able to feel comfortable getting a retune of the oe engine management from me instead of the hydra.

[cozykat]

Thanks LAN for your confidence. This build is scary for me as I don't have prior build experience - more learning as I go so I'm trying to make careful decisions.
As I understand your EM systems, they are piggy-back?
So far, I think the Hydra is my best choice not just because its proven that it will communicate well with the SVX but also believe it provides the most tuning options that I know of in a stand-alone system - "end all be all" as some STI guys call it. Having an engineering background makes me want to know the status and have the ability to control the ECU. I think the Hydra will satisfy that. The price is heavy but I take comfort in knowing my STI friends don't get it any cheaper.

[Splinter]

Originally Posted by cozykat

As I understand, 8/8.5:1 compression may be boost friendlier but it will effect my low-end torque more. I think our more technical members could better explain why than myself. I want more power and higher-end torque without sacrificing a lot of my low-end torque. OT, Shaun, and a couple of STI (one EVO) guys seem to agree that dropping to 9:1 is a good medium for our engines. It will only decrease the stock 230bhp by ~4% (or ~9bhp) and I probably will not notice since the block will be bored, have head work, etc to improve flow.

FWIW I'm running 8.5:1 in my 2.2L turbo impreza, and it has more bottom end torque than my 9.5:1 stock RS25, despite having 300cc less displacement.

With your standalone, you'll be able to ramp up ignition timing for low RPM/off boost driving with the low compression, which mostly makes up for it.

[longassname]

The hydra replaces the oe ecu. It's an after market ecu. It's supposed to be a good one.

What I do is change the tuning in the oe ecu. It's not a piggy back. A piggy back is what they call something that fiddles with the signals going into and out of the ecu to modify what the ecu does. I don't make one of those. My memory adaptors are just a means of putting modified firmware into the oe ecu.

The reason to get the hydra is because it's designed to let you do your own tuning. The reson to get a retune of the oe engine management from me is because you want me to do it for you so you don't have to do your own tuning.

I'm going to guess I'll have my turbo system done before you'll have yours done so you'll be able to see the results of mine before you have to shell out any $$ for any engine management no matter which route you go. Speaking of coinciding projects, it sounds like we will both have the same flanges. You can get the turbo flanges ready made off ebay and you can get the eg33 exhaust flanges from smallcar but I'm going to cut some eg33 exhast flanges out of stainless flat bar and not profile the sides and cut a turbine inlet flange with extra material left on the top so I can weld it's edge to the edge of the exhaust manifold flange. I can cut you a set too if you want. This will stop the exhaust system from putting too much stress on the exhaust manifold tubing when the engine torques and hopefully prevent any cracks.

[SVXRide]

Marisa,
Best of luck with your build! Who's pistons are you going with? (CP?)
-Bill