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#1
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pulling the transaxle
getting ready to pull my transaxle out (for the first time).
Alldata says to pop out the ball joint (among other things) Chilton doesn't mention the ball joint but says to pull the pins, then turn the wheels and withdraw the axles The Chilton way sounds easier. Why do I have to pull the ball joint out if Alldata has it right. I've looked under there and just can't seem to visualize what's what when it starts to come apart. tia, lee |
#2
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I did mine a month ago and using beav's advice pulled out the 3 bolts below the ball joint instead of separating the ball joint itself. It worked like a charm.
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Matt Locker Link 2015 BRZ Limited 6MT 92 Ebony LS-L ECUtune Stage2av1, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, TomsSVX intake, BontragerWorks 22mm RSB #003, HID Hi and Lo beams, OT endlink and bushing mods, PWR Aluminum radiator, Harvey's QC shift kit, 2.5" flowmaster 80 exhaust, 17" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, Poly sway bar bushings, Slotted Bradi rotors, AFBeefcake powdercoated calipers, 97 grill, and a huge set of air horns. 300,000 miles and counting 92 Ebony LS-L. ecutune stage1v4, motorsport 1pc pulley. Garage Queen - sold to Dad in upstate NY 155,000 miles 19 Subaru Ascent Premium - -Hers !. 89 DL 4x4 little red wagon - a.k.a. The immortal suby. 275k R.I.P. |
#3
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pulling the ball joint.
I saw Beav's post and have always valued his input.
My question is why Alldata says to pull the joint and Chilton's does not - especially since Chilton's method seems easier on the surface. Lee |
#4
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There's always a variety of ways to do a job. Add in the fact that most service books are just a copy or a re-hash of the factory manual(s). Some are based on a similar model rather than a specific vehicle (saves the editor time and money.)
Just pulling the pins leaves the axles in the car and they could get in the way. Or you could pull the pins then take the big nuts off from the other end of the axle and remove them, but that's probably more difficult than just removing the three nuts and having a lot more room to work. It's all just a matter of personal preference. Good Luck!
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#5
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it's out and now????
Beav, ended up doing it your way - much more room to get the axles out of the way after the three bolts release the ball joint.
Pulled the differential off the tranny. Seems a small section of the case cracked, then flung itself into the teeth between the ring and pinion. Both are chewed up beyond use (and of course the case is toast). I've only put a thousand miles on this puppy - to bad a private party sale and no warranty - oh well...off to find a diff. |
#6
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Re: it's out and now????
Quote:
Huck can give you the details on the gear swap. Give it a go. we are all waiting for somebody to do it. Harvey.
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One Arm Bloke. Tell it like it is! 95 Lsi. Bordeaux Pearl, Aust. RHD.149,000Kls Subaru BBS wheels. 97 Liberty GX Auto sedan. 320,000Kls. 04 Liberty 30R Auto Premium. 92.000kls. |
#7
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legacy swap
oab_au,
Actually, based on an archive search and posts about use of a Legacy unit, I looked for front & rear legacy diffs and couldn't find a site west of the Mississippi that had both in stock - closest was in Colorado (or maybe I just don't know how to do an effective used parts search - I only tried mypartshop.com and a phone call to a local yard claiming computer searches - they didn't have anything I could physically touch). I was a bit reluctant to take on two different suppliers (neither of which I knew) and an experiment at the same time. I have some mechanical apptitude, but I'm new to the SVX (only got 1000 miles on mine before this happened), the nearest Suby dealer is over 75 miles away and none to friendly, and it just seemed like too much uncertainty. Sorry. I found a close-by SVX transaxle complete, so I guess I'm going that route and will have a spare tranny to work up (just in case). |
#8
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Hmmmmm
I'm in very much the same boat as Lee is (or was). My front diff is very toasted. I would be interested in doing the legacy swap but I have 2 problems with that.
1. Since the pinion gear is a part of a long shaft that runs through to the rear of the transmission, would a legacy pinion have the same dimentions for the shaft? The other end of the shaft has a gear bolted on it that is driven by the other shaft in the transmission (the main shaft). The other gear drives the clutch pack that powers the rear wheels. ( a lot of info I know) My point is if the pinion gear/shaft isn't just right, there could be problems. 2. I need better instructions on how to align the ring and pinion to each other. I did it myself last time and it seems like that's why it wore out again. If anyone can help me out with these 2 issues, I'd be happy to try to be the first with Legacy differentials. I would also need to know what year/model of Legacy transmission would supply the correct differentials. Tahnks, Jay
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Speed Safely Subaru, All We'll Drive Black '92 LSl 270Kmi 5MT (W00t! for 1/4 million on 4/27/07) Laguna Blue '94 L about 130Kmi (I think) for parts, in storage previous: Green '92 LSl 253Kmi 5MT (sold to ron post moose adventure, sold to someone else) previous: Maroon '92 LSl 130Kmi +- (sold to Ron, mashed by moose, crushed) Black '89 XT6 5spd AWD (storage) |
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