Engine dieing sometimes

Crusader · #1 04-21-2002, 10:09 PM

Okay here goes, just got my 92 used from a dealership, they said it is a great car, but it dies sometimes when you bring it down to idle. (good thing is that they promised to fix this before I got it, and they didn't so now they're obligated to give me a bunch of new parts untill they fix the problem

) Well anyway, I've had it in the shop 4 or 5 times now(losing count...) and they haven't got it right. So far they've.. adjusted the TPS, adjusted the TPS, replaced the TPS, replaced the O2 sensor, and now they're saying that my brake booster is leakey vaccuum. They have the new part ordered and it's gonna be free so i'm not too worried, but I'm just curious if this is probably the problem or not and if anyone else has had to deal with it.... plus I got bored reading all these forums and decided to get in the action. Well peace out all, thx in advance for any useful info.

wasions · #2 04-22-2002, 10:11 AM

I think I'd uninstall my driver and look for an upgrade.

(That was a joke.

)

Did you get it from a Subaru dealership? If not, and they're trying to diagnose the problem themselves, it could take awhile. Somebody recommend a good mechanic in Minnesota for the Crusader, eh?

Have patience, it'll be worth the effort. Best of luck.

Aredubjay · #3 04-22-2002, 10:27 AM

Did these guys try cleaning the throttle body? That'd be one of the simplest and first places I'd look. Secondly, would be the MAF sensor.

Best of luck, and thanks for breaking your "lurking" mode to come in and join the asylum.

Aredubjay · #4 04-22-2002, 10:40 AM

Oh, and one more thing. Try driving the car as close to empty as you can. Fill it with premium gas. Drive it for a while and fill it back up with premium gas. Someone may have filled it with "the cheap stuff" before you bought it, and the ECU is still trying to "cure" your car from the nasty gas.

Stevebsy · #5 04-22-2002, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by wasions
Somebody recommend a good mechanic in Minnesota for the Crusader, eh?

Are you getting this serviced at Hayes in Duluth? I think they are the only dealer up nort here in MN. I guess it is a PITA to have it in the shop, but at least you aren't paying anything. Maybe (if you haven't) demand a loaner to drive if you don't have a backup car.

You'll hafta come down to Duluth sometime. I have held a meet here a couple times now, so this year should be no exception. It will probably be in the fall with a North Shore scenic drive trip.

Crusader · #6 04-22-2002, 04:23 PM

Okay all, here's the deal, it's time for good news bad news. Good news is that they fixed the suspected vaccuum leak and the engine isn't dieing in low-vaccuum situations. also picked up better brakes and slightly better performance out of the deal. Bad news....

now the engine dies when it's in park, I'm suspecting that I need to give the computer some time to reprogram itself for normal vaccuum, (again any input is welcome). The second and worst bad news is that the last/previous owners of this car were F****** IDIOTS! the vaccuum leak was caused by someone trying to drill a hole thru the firewall and they drilled right into the brake booster!........ I'm scared to see what else might come up here.

On another note Thanx to Stevebsy for the input on a local (kinda) dealer and I'll have to remember that for any major repairs ........ hopefully I won't have to visit them.... and also I think it would be great to join you in your meet, if it would be possible for me and alright with my parents (I'm only 17) but it'd be cool none the less. Again thanks in advance for any useful info and happy SVXing to all
--MIKE--

#7 04-22-2002, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Crusader
The second and worst bad news is that the last/previous owners of this car were F****** IDIOTS! the vaccuum leak was caused by someone trying to drill a hole thru the firewall and they drilled right into the brake booster!

leme guess, had an aftermarket sterio installed

Crusader · #8 04-22-2002, 09:26 PM

No, actually it had the stock stereo, I put in the aftermarket stuff myself.... although I think it may have been the cell phone wiring that is abound underneath my trim pannels

Crusader · #9 04-22-2002, 09:37 PM

Oh yeah, one more thing, since I had the brake booster replaced today I noticed that the "POWER" indicator light on my dashboard has been flashing for several seconds after each start, is this normal, or does it signify a problem of some sort?

#10 04-23-2002, 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Crusader
Oh yeah, one more thing, since I had the brake booster replaced today I noticed that the "POWER" indicator light on my dashboard has been flashing for several seconds after each start, is this normal, or does it signify a problem of some sort?

that's a code of some sort. You can take it to the subbie dealership and they can tell you what it means. Or I'm sure with time someone will tell you what it means. I have no idea what they mean

Aredubjay · #11 04-23-2002, 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Crusader
Oh yeah, one more thing, since I had the brake booster replaced today I noticed that the "POWER" indicator light on my dashboard has been flashing for several seconds after each start, is this normal, or does it signify a problem of some sort?

Here is the procedure for extracting error codes from your TCU.

The 16 blinks means that there is a code being stored. You'll have to run the self diagnosis to actually see what that code us.

The "Power" light indicates transmission codes. The following self diagnosis will show any fault codes for the transmission.

To perform the self diag test for EXISTING problems
1) Warm up engine by driving at speeds greater than 12mph.
2) Stop vehicle and turn ignition switch OFF.
3) Turn ignition switch ON and make sure POWER indicator lamp comes on.
4) Turn ignition switch OFF.
5) Move selector lever to D and turn manual switch ON.
6) Turn ignition switch ON.
7) Move selector lever to "3" and turn manual switch OFF.
8) Move selector level to "2" and turn manual switch ON.
9) Move selector lever to "1" and turn manual switch OFF.
10) Partially depress accelerator pedal (to turn idle switch off).
11) Check code as displayed on POWER light. Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal.

To perform the self diag test for PREVIOUS problems
1) Warm up engine by driving at speeds greater than 12mph.
2) Stop vehicle and turn ignition switch OFF.
3) Turn ignition switch ON and make sure POWER indicator lamp comes on.
4) Turn ignition switch OFF.
5) Move selector lever to "1" and turn manual switch ON.
6) Turn ignition switch ON.
7) Move selector lever to "2" and turn manual switch OFF.
8) Move selector lever to "3" and turn manual switch ON.
9) Move selector lever to "D" and trun manual switch OFF.
10) Partially depress accelerator pedal (to turn idle switch off).
11) Check code as displayed on POWER light. Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal.

Trouble codes:
11 Duty solenoid A
12 Duty solenoid B
13 Shift solenoid 3
14 Shift solenoid 2
15 Shift solenoid 1
21 ATF temp sensor
22 Atmospheric sensor
23 Engine revolution signal
24 Duty solenoid C
25 Engine torque control signal
31 Throttle sensor
32 Vehicle speed sensor 1
33 Vehicle speed sensor 2

----------------------
Long blinks are counted as units of 10 and short blinks are counted as units of 1. In other words, two long blinks and two short blinks would be a code 22. One long blink and one short blink would be a Code 11.

#12 04-23-2002, 11:05 AM

wow, thanks, i'm going to have to do this today and see what it says...or maybe I should just let sleeping dogs lie as everything apears to be working well

One thing, what happens if there are more than one code? Does it just keep blinking like long short long long short short? or are there pauses, an extra long blink?

Quote:

Originally posted by Aredubjay

Here is the procedure for extracting error codes from your TCU.

The 16 blinks means that there is a code being stored. You'll have to run the self diagnosis to actually see what that code us.

The "Power" light indicates transmission codes. The following self diagnosis will show any fault codes for the transmission.

To perform the self diag test for EXISTING problems
1) Warm up engine by driving at speeds greater than 12mph.
2) Stop vehicle and turn ignition switch OFF.
3) Turn ignition switch ON and make sure POWER indicator lamp comes on.
4) Turn ignition switch OFF.
5) Move selector lever to D and turn manual switch ON.
6) Turn ignition switch ON.
7) Move selector lever to "3" and turn manual switch OFF.
8) Move selector level to "2" and turn manual switch ON.
9) Move selector lever to "1" and turn manual switch OFF.
10) Partially depress accelerator pedal (to turn idle switch off).
11) Check code as displayed on POWER light. Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal.

To perform the self diag test for PREVIOUS problems
1) Warm up engine by driving at speeds greater than 12mph.
2) Stop vehicle and turn ignition switch OFF.
3) Turn ignition switch ON and make sure POWER indicator lamp comes on.
4) Turn ignition switch OFF.
5) Move selector lever to "1" and turn manual switch ON.
6) Turn ignition switch ON.
7) Move selector lever to "2" and turn manual switch OFF.
8) Move selector lever to "3" and turn manual switch ON.
9) Move selector lever to "D" and trun manual switch OFF.
10) Partially depress accelerator pedal (to turn idle switch off).
11) Check code as displayed on POWER light. Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal.

Trouble codes:
11 Duty solenoid A
12 Duty solenoid B
13 Shift solenoid 3
14 Shift solenoid 2
15 Shift solenoid 1
21 ATF temp sensor
22 Atmospheric sensor
23 Engine revolution signal
24 Duty solenoid C
25 Engine torque control signal
31 Throttle sensor
32 Vehicle speed sensor 1
33 Vehicle speed sensor 2

----------------------
Long blinks are counted as units of 10 and short blinks are counted as units of 1. In other words, two long blinks and two short blinks would be a code 22. One long blink and one short blink would be a Code 11.

Aredubjay · #13 04-23-2002, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by EverclearAtMSU
wow, thanks, i'm going to have to do this today and see what it says...or maybe I should just let sleeping dogs lie as everything apears to be working well

One thing, what happens if there are more than one code? Does it just keep blinking like long short long long short short? or are there pauses, an extra long blink?

If you have more than one code, it will flash each code with a slight pause in between, then, pause a little longer and repeat the list of codes.

I had two codes, so, it flashed my two, with a slight pause in between, then, paused longer than it did between the codes and repeated the "list."

Example (I had a code 12 and a code 24 - dashes are long blinks, dots are short ones):

- . . - - . . . . / - . . - - . . . . / - . . - - . . . . and so forth.

oab_au · #14 04-23-2002, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Crusader
Okay all, here's the deal, it's time for good news bad news. Good news is that they fixed the suspected vaccuum leak and the engine isn't dieing in low-vaccuum situations. also picked up better brakes and slightly better performance out of the deal. Bad news.... now the engine dies when it's in park, I'm suspecting that I need to give the computer some time to reprogram itself for normal vaccuum, (again any input is welcome).
--MIKE--

Gid'ay Mike
To get back to your problem of idle cut out. It seems to me that the idle speed control valve may be gummed up and not operating correctly.
This valve is operated by the ECU to maintain the correct idle speed to compensate for idle speed changes such as, a/c operation, brake booster operation. You can check it's operation when the motor is at idle by turning on the a/c, the valve should raise the engine speed right away, if not the valve is faulty, can be cleaned.
May be the trouble, all the best

Harvey.

Crusader · #15 04-23-2002, 09:49 PM

Okay here's the deal, this diag. would be greatly helpful and all, one problem.. I can't get it to work, I printed the instructions and followed them to the letter.. wondering if anyone could tell me any other important instructions that I could be missing to get it to work properly. Also someone was telling me that I might be able to reset the computer by disconnecting the battery and turning the key on for a period of time.. he said that it works with chevys and fords, I was wondering if this would work/would be recommended for my SVX.....

---MIKE---