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#16
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the sawzall is what i was thinking of. did u use a vise and how hard was the cut? wheel grinder? also on painting do u think cleaning and painting over the paint would stick? or do i got to sand down? i dont want to leave car in shop for to long. 1 day pulling off all and cutting. night of painting. 1 day of putting togther and installing back to car. im shooting for 2 days. sound logical. do i need to buy new camber bolts for front and rear?
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#17
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The metal is pretty thick- sawzall doesn't make the curve too well. I just chopped a series of straights as close as I could, then ground the rest of the way with a 4" right angle grinder.
Cleaning and painting should work fine. Maybe a little light sanding to break the sheen on the original paint. If you are handy, your 2 day schedule should work fine. Unless the camber bolts are worn, I don't think you need to replace them routinely.
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'92 LS-not-so-L: the "SVreX"- Saved from a crusher, an SVX racer built by home schooled students for less than $2000 (including purchase price). 13.8 second 1/4 mile. Autocrossing monster!! '92 LS-L Claret: '01 RS 4:11 5-speed, Exedy organic, lightened flywheel, and Koni/ GC |
#18
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yeah straight cut seemed the way to go. sounds simple. is there a way to tell if the cambers are worn without removal? i just want all my parts ready to go. i got 50 days and im out 5thou of alaska. i still got to order install the koni gcs and get new tires (mich hydros) and prep and paint a nice red black two tone ride. and do the brake pads.
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#19
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Maybe someone who knows more than me can address that. Honestly, it's not a moving part- I don't see how there would be wear. If there was, the car would drive horribly- you'd probably know by now. If you pull them and they appear worn, put them on anyway then go back and replace them. Just do it before you get an alignment. It's a 5 minute job.
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'92 LS-not-so-L: the "SVreX"- Saved from a crusher, an SVX racer built by home schooled students for less than $2000 (including purchase price). 13.8 second 1/4 mile. Autocrossing monster!! '92 LS-L Claret: '01 RS 4:11 5-speed, Exedy organic, lightened flywheel, and Koni/ GC |
#20
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cool good deal u have been alot of help. if i need more do you mind if i pm you. thanks.
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#21
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No Problem- Good Luck!!
Keep us posted on how you like your Konis!!
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'92 LS-not-so-L: the "SVreX"- Saved from a crusher, an SVX racer built by home schooled students for less than $2000 (including purchase price). 13.8 second 1/4 mile. Autocrossing monster!! '92 LS-L Claret: '01 RS 4:11 5-speed, Exedy organic, lightened flywheel, and Koni/ GC |
#22
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I figure after you have the struts out it would take about 3 hours to do the conversion.
We just used a hacksaw to cut off the old perches. Just make sure to weld the new perches in the same place on all the struts.
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
#23
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We didn't cut the perches off entirely. The link he posted earlier to my struts describes. The new springs actually sit on the remains of the old perches.
Accurate, and protects the strut chamber from distortion or warpage during the welding.
__________________
'92 LS-not-so-L: the "SVreX"- Saved from a crusher, an SVX racer built by home schooled students for less than $2000 (including purchase price). 13.8 second 1/4 mile. Autocrossing monster!! '92 LS-L Claret: '01 RS 4:11 5-speed, Exedy organic, lightened flywheel, and Koni/ GC |
#24
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a safer wiser better idea.
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#25
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Quote:
the only bad thing with cutting your perches off is that if you want to try another setup in the future, it isn't possible unless you buy another set of struts....like Mychalio's springs and koni's. |
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