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#1
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Radiator cracked: engine overheated: now I've got an intermittent clicking.
Yeah, that "click click click click click" that most of us know. I've used 3 quarts of Gunk's Valve Medic and it goes away but comes back intermittently. What additive should I try next? Add a 1/2 quart of ATF? Or the half quart of that Mystery Oil stuff? Or what? Any suggestions?
Or maybe I permanently damaged a valve from the overheating or something else. Any thoughts? (The radiator, water pump, oil pump o-ring, and crank shaft seals have since been replaced.)
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'92 Touring Ebony |
#2
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Last night I was driving around and the sticking valve went away. When I started it up today there was some slight sticking and I could hear a little click.
Anyone have any thoughts?
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'92 Touring Ebony |
#3
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What oil do you use? I normally use Red Line, Amsoil and Royal Purple exclusively, but I was cheap one time and put in Castrol high mile crap. It almost immediately gave lash adjuster noise. I switched to Mobil 1 soonafter and it went away within a day.
Stephen |
#4
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It sounds like your flex plate may have developed a crack. Cheap part, but you need to pull the tranny to get to it.
A lot of people (me included) hear new noises after a problem. Most of the time we are just listening closer. Doug
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1992 LS Touring (6/91) - Currently undergoing a five speed swap Black over Claret with spoiler; 235,000 miles; Mods: 2002 Legacy 5 speed, ACT Pressure Plate, Excedy Clutch, Short Throw Shifter, Aussie Powerchip 1992 LS Touring (6/91) Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler 1994 LSi (4/93) Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction. 1969 Mustang GT Convertible 1970 Mustang Convertible 2000 Ford Excursion Sola lingua bona est lingua mortua. My Locker |
#5
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I've always used the same type of oil, before and after it overheating. But maybe you're suggesting that now, because of the incident, I'm going to have to use better quality oil? Hmmm...
Regarding the flex plate suggestion, I read this thread and I don't think that's the problem, simply because the ticking is at the same volume level no matter what the RPMs are or how hard I'm accelerating. Thoughts?
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'92 Touring Ebony |
#6
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Quote:
Then I have to go back to the drawing board... (Doug takes eraser to the chalk board) Doug
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1992 LS Touring (6/91) - Currently undergoing a five speed swap Black over Claret with spoiler; 235,000 miles; Mods: 2002 Legacy 5 speed, ACT Pressure Plate, Excedy Clutch, Short Throw Shifter, Aussie Powerchip 1992 LS Touring (6/91) Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler 1994 LSi (4/93) Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction. 1969 Mustang GT Convertible 1970 Mustang Convertible 2000 Ford Excursion Sola lingua bona est lingua mortua. My Locker |
#7
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Quote:
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'92 Touring Ebony |
#8
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I don't know if it's related, but I also get an occasional cloud of smoke when I start up the car after it has been resting for several hours. At first I thought it was the remnants of the Valve Medic I put in, but now I think my valve stem seals might be toast!!!
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'92 Touring Ebony Last edited by curlykicker; 09-02-2003 at 01:19 AM. |
#9
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Quote:
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#10
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The click rate (clicks per minute) does change depending on the RPMs. In fact, I'm positive that the clicks are in perfect synch with the engine RPMs.
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'92 Touring Ebony |
#11
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Update:
My mechanic took a listen and says that I need my valves adjusted to correct the ticking. What do you guys think? Is that probable given the symptoms? How much are we talkin' to get them adjusted? He says he won't attempt to do it himself.
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'92 Touring Ebony Last edited by curlykicker; 09-12-2003 at 11:03 PM. |
#12
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Not the valve adjustment
The EG33 uses hydraulic valve lash adjusters (aka lifters) and as such there is no need for/method of adjustment. Scratch this one off you list.
Todd
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Down to none |
#13
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For valve ticking first try Marvel Mystery Oil. If that doesn't cure it then the next step is one suggested by Landshark from his porsche days. A quart of tranny fluid in the crankcase, then a spirited drive for about 30 minutes followed by changing the oil.
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Matt Locker Link 2015 BRZ Limited 6MT 92 Ebony LS-L ECUtune Stage2av1, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, TomsSVX intake, BontragerWorks 22mm RSB #003, HID Hi and Lo beams, OT endlink and bushing mods, PWR Aluminum radiator, Harvey's QC shift kit, 2.5" flowmaster 80 exhaust, 17" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, Poly sway bar bushings, Slotted Bradi rotors, AFBeefcake powdercoated calipers, 97 grill, and a huge set of air horns. 300,000 miles and counting 92 Ebony LS-L. ecutune stage1v4, motorsport 1pc pulley. Garage Queen - sold to Dad in upstate NY 155,000 miles 19 Subaru Ascent Premium - -Hers !. 89 DL 4x4 little red wagon - a.k.a. The immortal suby. 275k R.I.P. |
#14
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Hey thanks guys for "sticking" with me.
That's a relief to know Wawazat. I'll try the Mystery Oil in the next few days and cross my fingers.
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'92 Touring Ebony |
#15
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Ok, I've tried the Mystery Oil, ATF, and CD2 valve cleaner. None have worked. Now what do I do?
Occasionally (like one in 20), when I start up the car there will be no clicking. On occasion when this happens, I'll run an experiment and immediately restart the car. Everytime the clicking will be back after I restart the car. What gives?
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'92 Touring Ebony Last edited by curlykicker; 12-18-2003 at 11:22 AM. |
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