Umm... not such a good deal? - Page 2

Reaper450128 · #16 03-06-2003, 02:56 PM

Sorry guys, I've got no video camera, so no burn out

I've seen this resistor "fix" before (I've been lurking around for a little while before I actually got my car, so I've picked up a few things), what does it do, exactly?

When I get a chance (probably not before next week) I will try disconnecting the cooler, see if that makes a difference. Also, the guy I bought it from suggested the trans fluid filter might be clogged, is that another possibility?

huck369 · #17 03-06-2003, 03:55 PM

Clogged filter is a possibility, and don't block off the cooler, just by-pass it to test.

The resistor, when unplugged bumps the line pressure to full, make it shift harder, or in your case, might make it at least shift

Reaper450128 · #18 03-06-2003, 04:07 PM

OK, I'm quite confused now. My mom hadn't had a chance to really look at it or ride in it yet, so I just gave her a 10-minute drive around the neighborhood. I didn't notice the vibration from the brakes nearly as much, they actually felt almost normal. Moreover, though, I couldn't tell if it was the transmission slipping or just my tires slipping in the snow. Now I'm going to have to wait until the snow melts to really check it out.

Reaper450128 · #19 03-07-2003, 07:16 PM

OK, got some time to drive it on dry pavement today, and I must say, despite the issues, this thing is even more fun than I expected. The engagment problem at first acceleration is definately a pressure issue, and after more driving, it kind of reminds of the WRX I test drove earlier this year, ie turbo lag with a hard boost when it kicks in. Not a good thing, but kind of fun, and makes it very easy to spin the tires even on dry pavement. Now, the 4th gear problem might all be in my head, I'm not sure: when I tried going all out full throttle today, it got stuck bouncing between 6500-7000rpm, not able to upshift. Another result of the pressure issue? All still adds up to the same thing, thought I assume, time to fix the trans. I will try the resistor fix this weekend, as well as inspecting the cooler and filter for clogging.

Also, the brakes are better, but they are still not straight. I will try the torque fix this weekend, if that doesn't work, new rotors are the 2nd fix on the list.

Reaper450128 · #20 03-10-2003, 10:43 AM

OK, after I get the car road legal I'm going to take it to the Subaru dealership nearby me. Anything I should bring with me to make sure they don't screw anything up (I've heard the stories of bad experiences with SVXs and Subie techs)? I printed up a couple of TSBs relating to the changes made to the transmission, any others?

#21 03-11-2003, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Reaper450128
I'm just sort of curious now: what is causing the problem with engaging the transmission? Through my testing today I determined that it won't seem to "catch" and start spinning the axles until about 1500rpm, higher if I press harder to the point where I can get a nice quick second-long spin of all 4 tires. Is the problem in the transmission, in the torque converter, in the differentials, or what? I assume it has something to do with the connection to the torque converter in the transmission, and some type of clutch drum along the input shaft slipping a bit, but I don't know enough about the problem to know for sure.

This is the exact same problem that my transmission suffered from for a couple of weeks before the transmission was replaced with another. The service person said that there is a gasket in there that had broken, and allowing fluid to get places it shouldn't (caused not enough line pressure at low RPMs, symptoms disappear after 1.5k).

Reaper450128 · #22 03-11-2003, 05:45 PM

Two questions:
1. Just how bad can regular gas make driveability in an SVX?
2. Exactly how do I unplug the resisitor? I've been trying everyway that seems obvious to me, but I can't get a good enough angle to see how the plug locks in. Do I need to remove the battery to do this?

#23 03-11-2003, 06:31 PM

the resistor is easy, there should be a little tab that you gently pry up and pull out hte plug, it will be easier if you detatch it, and no you dont have to move batt.

As for as gas goes, I use 91 or better , i find it runs best on 93 and thats what i use when i can find it. Due to the high compression of the eg33, a higher octane is required to prevent predetonation. I have used regular octane only a few times , it Does make the car more sluggish (a little but noticable to me). The ecu compensates for the predetonation by lowering the ignition timing (senses predet from knock sensors). Some people will argue that it dosent really make that much of a difference if any, all i can say is i live in the mountains and drive my car up many hills (dont use d) and was definately able to tell the difference between grades,( comparing 85to 91. I myself will continue to use what is recommended and what i know works best, just like the manufacturers recommend.

oh yea, one more thing, all gas is the same nowadys as far as additives go, 85 is just as clean burning as 91 the only diff is they put something in highr octanes to make them harder to ignite, hence less predetonation.

Sorry for the long post, hope this helps alittle.

Reaper450128 · #24 03-11-2003, 07:07 PM

Long is good, I don't mind long

The only reason I ask about the gas is that I'm not sure what the mechanic filled it with before he turned it over to me, and I know there is a TSB about driveability complaints due to use of fuel with and AKI (or octane rating to most of us) of less than 91. I'm still looking for a glimmer of hope that this transmission problem isn't really the transmission, thats all. Teh mechanic still swears he never had any trouble with it while he had it, and all he did before he handed to me was change all the fluids (enigne oil, ps fluid, and trans fluid at least) and fill the tank. I don't see how any of that could have caused this trouble I've seen. My only other thought is that when he was doing either the brake work (replaced pads) or more likely replacing the front CV shafts (which connect to the trans, at least sort of, right?) he did something that messed up the transmission.

#25 03-12-2003, 01:51 PM

simply changing the tranny fluid could have caused it, if it was already alittle gunked up from nonmaintence and abuse, then putting clean fluid especially if its synthetic, would break up alot of crap inside and could possibly clog something up.. i may be going out on a big limb with this assumption but i think it is possible

might try changing the internal tranny filter, andf external filter and see if that helps.

and mabye even (although highly controversial) get a tranny flush, in the opposite direction that the fluid flows.

I know there was a member here who did this and it fixed his prob long enouhg for a huge roadtrip to reading meet.

but as has been stated before, it sounds like it could be a pressure prob(lack of) and in whitch case could be your trans pump. alot of things it could be .

But it is highly unlikesy that you will find a magical fix ie a loose hose or wire , would'nt that be sweet though.

anyway sounds like you have alot of stuff to keep you busy, I hope you figure out something simple. you have a very nice car, now only to get it fixed

good luck and post back with any questions.

MoreIBNR · #26 03-13-2003, 10:05 PM

I am quite sure that this is not true. I believe you are confusing the lock-up with 4th gear.

Quote:

Originally posted by TE1221
Congrats on the car.

Also being that you live in NJ it is quite cold here. How long did you have the car running before you tried to get it to shift into 4th? The transmission will not shift into 4th until it has reached 160 degrees F.

MoreIBNR · #27 03-13-2003, 10:08 PM

Where in NJ are you? I had mine rebuilt a little over a year ago - cost 3000. If I were you, I would get the Subaru rebuilt - should cost about the same (don't forget the core credit - my local dealer tried to screw me on it which is why I did not have them do the work). You get a 2 yr 24,000 mile warrenty on the Sube rebuild.

Quote:

Originally posted by Reaper450128
OK, since the trans problem makes the car pretty undriveable, what kind of cost am I looking at for a rebuild? There's a transmission shop about 5 minutes away from my house, so I figured I'd get a quote from them, but I might as well get some idea what it will be before I go over there.

Also, any suggestions on what rotors I should get (aftermarket, don't really want to see this happen again any time soon)? I was looking at the ones availiable from Small Car Performance for the SVX, but the ones availiable at Motorsport Warehouse look good too.

MoreIBNR · #28 03-13-2003, 10:10 PM

Actually, I believe the plastic seals shrink with heat if they have not been upgraded.

Quote:

Originally posted by cbx-man

From what I have read (and experienced) what happens is, when the plastic seals inside the tranny get too hot, they expand and allow fluid to leak past so it's not being used for thrust. So, you have to pump more fluid (rev higher) to get it moving; as if pouring water into a leaky bucket- you have to pour more water and pour faster. When the tranny cools down, the seals will shrink back to normal, but after many episodes of overheating, the seals (being plastic) will get hard and once they expand, no longer shrink back.
New materials for the seals are now used that allow for higher temperatures.

So, your problem is not the differentials or the torque converter.

MoreIBNR · #29 03-13-2003, 10:13 PM

Considering the mileage on your car and the problems you have, I hope you didn't pay more than 1500 for it. By the time you are through fixing it, you will have about 3500 - 4000 more into it. That plus what you paid is far more than the book value.

Quote:

Originally posted by Reaper450128
I picked up my SVX today (see my previous post about PS pump in this forum), and its a little worse off than I realized. I shall list the problems, and await your reactions:
1. When braking, there is a very heavy vibration, but the rotors are not visibly warped. They are a bit rusty, so maybe thats all it is?
2. It won't go into 4th gear, it just hits the rev limiter in third and stays there if I press too hard on the throttle.
3. It doesn't start moving right away, and will actually spin the tires if I try too hard to get it moving quick.
4. The driver side shoulder belt doesn't move.
5. The rear wiper doesn't move, and leaks washer fluid into the car if I try to spray it.
6. The remote for the security system seems to have gotten lost somewhere between the mechanic I bought it from and the woman he sold it for. How much is a replacement, if such a thing is availiable?

Other than that, its in pretty good shape, and on the highways back from CT to NJ it was a very nice ride. Now, I'm assuming the trans is bad, which is quite a painful assumption for me. Then again, I was expecting to replace it sometime, and given the mileage (109000), I was half-expecting this to happen just as it has. Given all this, I guess I won't be selling my Legacy quite as quickly as I thought.

Reaper450128 · #30 03-14-2003, 06:03 AM

Unfortunately I paid $2825 after some repairs (new front CV shafts and brake pads on all wheels), so this is looking like a money pit. Any chance I can get out of it with the shirt on my back still intact if I sell it as a parts car?