Rotor puller

[DavieGravy]

I was doing brakes today and couldn't get the rotors off. Where can I get a puller, do I need one, and are they expensive?

I know that some screw from the radiator fits but I wasn't sure if I need an actual puller or just a couple of screws.

Thanks in advance.

[SVXRide]

Davie,
Look closely at the rotor and you'll see two threaded holes. They take 8mm bolts -- about 1.25 " long should do the trick -- screw both in and make sure you tighten them in equally to push the rotor off. Make sure you get grade 8 bolts or better (got mine at Home Depot).
Good luck.
-Bill

[DavieGravy]

Thanks very much Bill.

[svx_commuter]

It is a good idea to clean off the hub with a wire brush and maybe use some penatrant on the hub before pulling it. The hub locates the disk with a tight fit and this can prevent it from coming off.

[kuoh]

First, if you're doing the rear rotors, make sure you don't have the parking brake engaged. Second, the bolts that hold the upper radiator brackets are a perfect fit for the threaded holes in the hub. The rotor should pop off within 3 or 4 turns of the bolts.

KuoH

[mohrds]

Originally posted by kuoh
First, if you're doing the rear rotors, make sure you don't have the parking brake engaged. Second, the bolts that hold the upper radiator brackets are a perfect fit for the threaded holes in the hub. The rotor should pop off within 3 or 4 turns of the bolts.

KuoH

Or you'll break the radiator bolts off in the rotor like I did

From now on, I'll buy strong bolts instead of improvising.

Doug

[SVXRide]

I'd have sent you my grade 8 bolts
-Bill

[wawazat??]

Big Frickin' Hammer (actually a 3# dead-blow, rubber mallet). It makes a wonderful persuader.

Todd

[mattski]

It might help to clean the threads in the rotor using a tap. If you do not have one, spray a lot of lubricant into the holes, and thread in the bolts gradually, in and back out. If you feel a lot of resistance, back them out completely, flush out the accumulated rust, and try again.

Matt

[Landshark]

how about some PB Blaster - that stuff is great.

[kuoh]

Yours must have had some serious rust. The one front and one rear rotor that did need this persuasion when we did it presented little resistance to the bolts, even though they wouldn't budge at all with the little hammer we had on hand.

KuoH

Originally posted by mohrds
Or you'll break the radiator bolts off in the rotor like I did

[DavieGravy]

Thanks for all the input. It's occurred to me that the rotors have been cut twice and probably can't be turned again. So I replaced the pads and cleaned everything with brake cleaner. Also, I did try bashing them with a rubber hammer to no sucess. But next time I need to pull them off, I think I'll be able to manage.

[Beav]

Originally posted by wawazat??
Big Frickin' Hammer (actually a 3# dead-blow, rubber mallet). It makes a wonderful persuader.

Todd

I also use a 3# BFH, all steel. Anything I hit with it is bound to die, so I guess you could call it a 'dead-blow' hammer. I have yet to find a drum or rotor that could resist its persuasion.

[Chicane]

Uh... the rotors have screws?!?!?! I replaced all 4 rotors on my SVX, and there weren't 'screws' holding any of them on. What I had to do was undo the caliper, then sit on my ass and KICK the rotor once or twice, then it just comes right off. Do 92 LSLs have these screws?! Anyway, my brakes work fine.

- Rob

[DavieGravy]

They don't have screws, they have screw holes. Two of them, such that one can screw in bolts to push the rotor off if it's being stubborn.

By the way, I tightened down those (pivot?) bolts really f***in hard and no more front end noise. Pretty happy about that.