ANOTHER dead alternator

[drivemusicnow]

Thought I'd add a little information to this thread:

A) Rebuilding the alt yourself is not that hard, search Christmas tree, and a post by Beav, and you'll find a thread with part numbers of the transpo [sic] parts for the regulator and rectifier to do this... I've done it, it's easy, it costs under 50$ (try not to mess with the bearings while doing this... it's easy to damage them if you do try and replace them, which is really not neccesary)

B) Buy napa rebuilds if you have to buy one, I think they are cheaper, they put out a higher amp rating, and their warranty is better.

C) Alternators can fail several different ways... If they go out in a very short amount of time, you get all of the dash lights, but the car will continue to run as long as the battery can put out power... depending on how weak the alt has been for how long, this can be 20 miles, or 2. My first alt died extremely slowly... it took 9 months for it to completely take a crap.. basically went from I'd have to rev the engine up a bit for it to start putting out power, too occasionally I'd have to open the hood and hit it with a hammer.... I was cheap.

People sometimes notice that the ABS light comes on because it is most sensitive to power fluctuations.

D) It doesn't seem to me like there may be anything specifically wrong with your car... It could be just really bad luck. (Autozone alts have something like a 40% return rate as far as not working within the first few months.) However you may have a voltage leak somewhere that causes your battery to drain overnight, or during extended periods of time with the car off... Once you start the car, the alternator is stressed to try and charge the battery from "not quite dead" up to full power. This kills alternators. Also if you have any stereo equipment, it's possible that you are pulling more current out of the system than you should... this also puts a lot of stress specifically on the alternator. The only other reason I could see for this to happen would be if for whatever reason, there is some powered cable that shorts to ground, which could create a largely varied voltage, which the "internal" voltage regulator would not like.


E) My advice would be to spend some quality time with a DMM, and see if you can find a V leak, or any other change in voltage. (any other sensors/problems/fuses randomly blow?) Other than that, buy one with a good warranty, keep a spare, and let Napa/autozone pick up the tab... Not like the SVX alt is at all hard to change ;-)

[crotchrocketony]

hey, I have a Alt question while he has all your eyes. My alt is acting very weird......it charges when i drive but if IM sitting at a light my batt starts to drain. if im stuck in traffic this is not good...I have been stranded 2 times for this....I do have a under drive pully...might this be my problem.....turns my alt so slow at idle that my normal draws are higher then the alt output? Just thought I would ask..not that it matters with a F*ed trans again...Have I mentioned I hate my SVX?

[Beav]

It probably has one or two bad diodes preventing it from making full output. Battery go dead in a day or two without running? If not, probably a weak connection somewhere.

[Earthworm]

I, too, am waiting for alternator #4. Last one died with no warning lights but the first 2 gave me the 5 warning light Christmas tree.

The last one was interesting. I was on the highway and the cruise control shut itself off. Next the engine idle picked up about 500rpm. Then the power steering assist shut down (as if belt was slipping but it wasn't). Next the tach started bouncing up & down about 1000rpm. Then the engine started to stumble before complete shutdown.

Replaced battery to get me home. Had alternator tested and confirmed it had a bad diode. Being fixed under warranty. Using my dad's alternator in the meantime (he won't be needing it for a while ).

[dwd1985]

So I may have figured out the problem, and I think it is battery related. First off, on my first alternator, which was a year ago, I also had a brand new Interstate battery (75 month warranty) installed. That setup last 9 or 10 months, and then the alternator died. I replaced it with a used one, and took the battery to Autozone and had it tested. They said it was bad. So I took the battery to Interstate they kept it for 2 days, and called me saying it was now good to go. So I hooked it back up, and that was ok for a month or 2, then the second alternator died. I put the new alternator in, but did nothing for the battery. Everything was going good until this morning. As soon as I started it and went in reverse, it kind of jerked 2 or 3 times as I went backwards, and almost stalled out, and my radio turned itself off. Then while wiaitng at a light with my turn signal on, I noticed that as the signal blinked, my dash gear indicator light blinked with it. Then once I parked and got out, my automatic seatbelt wouldnt go down the track. But a few minutes later, when I got back in and re-started it, nothign was wrong. I think the battery has been draining overnight, and the alternators are dying because it has to constantly re-charge it every morning. What could cause the battery to drain like that, and hsould I get a new battery, or make Interstate give me a new one (75 month warranty, only been in my car 12 months, died twice)?

[Bizarre]

Nipper is right. Replace your battery at the same time you replace your ALT.
This happened to me three times.

Orig. subie ALT died. Replaced with Bosch. Bad battery killed that one.
Replaced with second Bosch and new battery. Lasted 11 months.
Replaced with new Bosch again and all is well.

Parts guy and Pep Boys guys said one in ten alternators are bad out of the box anyway. Same goes for rebuilds.
Surprisingly high or they were just b.s. ing me.