Replacing Belts

I've got a '94 FWD and just bought new belts. What's the procedure for reducing tension to remove and replace the belts?
I see what appear to be tensioner bolts, one under the PS pump and the other pair under the A/C compressor. I've already removed the plastic safety cover.

ummmmm.. let's see if i can remember properly.. you might want to wait for some other replies before you take my word as law..

for the PS belt, loosen the nut holding down the idler pully, THEN loosen the long tensioner bolt.. pay attention to how it's mounted before you take it off so you don't mess it up putting it back on

for the ac belt, the tensioner pulley works on sort of a swing-arm system.. i can't quite remember, but to loosen it, i think all you need to do is loosen the nut on the smaller pully which is further to the right as you're leaning over the front bumper.. to tighten it you'll need to get a socket over the center of the larger pulley and twist it up, then tighten the nut on the idler pulley.. i think..........

-adam

Adam,

OK, I got the outer belt off... I didn't know I had to remove the idler pulley entirely, but that's the only way I could figure it. It should be no problem to put it back together.

Now I'll try the other belt, and ley you know.

I'm now an expert on replacing drive belts...at least on what NOT to do .

DON'T remove the PS idler pulley. I thought (perhaps) I would unscrew the tension adjusting bolt too far, and have a problem rethreading it...Wrong! I didn't loosen it far enough.

DON'T put the idler pulley front washer on backward
The idler pulley won't turn if you do.

All's well that ends well. I got to do the job twice, but everything is running fine.

Thanks for the help that got me started.

Fred robbins

[CDG]

I replaced both my belts in 20 minutes, WITHOUT removing the Idler pulley. If you have removed it, no big deal, while its out, check the Idler Pulley Bearing, they haven't been know to go, but if its out, check it out.

Once you have replaced the belt(use good quality belt, none of those cheap one) adjust it as per spec's. Drive 3-4k mile, adjust it one more time, only if nessasary, if it needs adjustment after that, REPLACE IT WITH A BETTER BELT.
Belts should only stretch once.

If you paid close to $20 for both belts, they are probably crap.
(Trust me, I know)

Known good belts:
Gates
Purolator
Subaru OEM

Known bad belts:
Bob's Belt World Premium brand
Joe's one-belt-fits-all universal belts
(just kidding on the Known bad belts)

Part # on the Subaru OEM belt is.....??

Chris G,

I DID remove the idler pulley, during a brain blackout. Replacing belts is something I've done many times, but the first for my SVX.
(Dealer replaced at 50K miles). Getting the pulley bolt lined up and firmly anchored so I could fit the washer and nut was a major PITA. I had to wedge a flexible plastic rod behind the bolt head to hold it.

Again, not paying attention, I reversed the washer (which bound up the pulley when tightened) and had to repeat the process.
So I did the job twice.

DAYCO belts. Old belts in serious condition, and no dealer close enough to buy OEM's. So far, after 30 minutes and 20 miles of running, very minimal stretch. Will check again soon.

I hope this post helps other DIY owners in potential pitfalls to avoid. BTW, idler pulley bearings seemd just fine.

Fred R.

[CDG]

I looked though all my receipts and I don't have an OEM part # for the belts sorry, try subaruparts.com.