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  #16  
Old 05-20-2008, 09:54 AM
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Joe, you have the worst luck with gearboxes.

I too think the SVX is best suited to an automatic transmission. A lot of people like to suggest that the 5MT is more reliable. But the original autos usually last over 80K miles and to my knowledge, nobody has yet put that much mileage on a 5MT SVX. So how can they know?

It sounds like using second-hand gearboxes that have been lying around for a while is risky. While the labour cost of having your own box professionally rebuilt is way too expensive to do on such a regular basis. The only other option being to rebuild the box yourself. What I think this community needs is a good illustrated howto on refurbishing your own transmission. Assuming it is something can be achieved by a non-expert.
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  #17  
Old 05-20-2008, 11:05 AM
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This is very true Phil. If it wasn't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all.

We should eventually have a few how-tos along these lines. I know from memory of a few people who have taken out and rebuilt[replaced clutches in] their own transmissions. It is certainly do-able, but I would rate it a 4 spanner job rather than a 2 spanner rating, and anybody tackling it would need to have the manual and the correct tools and a good work-bench.

And confidence that they can put it all back without any bits left over.

As a how-to, it would have to carry the strongest health warning. I have nightmare visions of people who are reluctant to change plugs or filters to save costs tackling this to save themselves money, and ending up with a box of bits because they lost some critical shims or ball bearings or something.

Not for the faint hearted, I would think.

Joe
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  #18  
Old 05-20-2008, 12:55 PM
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Transmission Removal

Here's a start compliments of a former member.

SVX TRANSMISSION REMOVAL
Tools needed:10,12,14,22 MM sockets, phillips and straight screwdriver of varying sizes, prybar, 6" extension, breaker bar, hammer, a small punch sized to knock out the axle pins at the tranny, tranny jack

To remove the tranny: Start at the top and work your way down. First, disconnect the battery(negative first) and then remove the alternator & starter.

Use a 6" extension with a 12 mm socket to go under the intake manifold to the transmission and remove the torque converter bolts (use a 22mm socket and breaker bar to spin the engine using the crank bolt to access all of the TC bolts).

Remove the bolt on the dogbone mount located at the back of the engine.

Remove the 14 MM bolt that bolts the tranny to the engine on the passenger side.

Unplug the 2 harnesses going down to the transmission located by the dogbone mount.

Unplug the speed sensor by the diff fluid tube on the passenger side.

Remove the exhaust.

Take out the ball joint bolts and separate the joint from the wheel hub.

Pop the axles off of the transmission(total removal isn't necessary as popping the ball joints loose gives you the play to move the axles out of the way).

Remove the heat shield and driveshaft.

Disconnect the 2 hoses on the driver side where the engine and tranny join.

Disconnect the shift linkage and the linkage bracket on the tranny.

Place your transmission jack under the tranny and make sure it is centered and secure.

Remove the 2 bolts securing the lower part of the tranny to the engine.

Remove the bolts from the transmission mount and remove the crossmember.

Your transmission is now ready to be removed.


Gene
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  #19  
Old 05-20-2008, 12:58 PM
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Yeah, that's the "2 spanner rating" job that Joe mentioned. The complete unit dissassembly/rebuild is going to be a bit more complicated.
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  #20  
Old 05-20-2008, 01:29 PM
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Thanks Gene. That is certainly a help.

I could actually rob the trans from the '95 that I have here as a last resort, and this dismantling sequence is a good pointer.

I'd rather leave it to the tranny shop, and put in a fresh good unit. However, if needs must I could always do this switchover without too much trouble.

First I will try making the adjustment, and depending the success or failure of that, I shall see where to go next.

Joe
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