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  #16  
Old 01-04-2005, 06:51 PM
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Earthworm Earthworm is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by svxpert
Save yourself some time and just remove the fans, no need to remove the radiator. That way, you won't have half the problems the other guys are having properly bleeding the air from the system.
I found it quicker to remove the radiator with the fans attached. I've never had a problem with air in my cooling system.
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  #17  
Old 01-04-2005, 07:03 PM
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I did it with out removing the radiator. Driver's fan out the top, pass fan out the bottom. Piece of cake.



This was my pile then I did mine. I also did spark plug too. The whole thing took about 3 hours.



***DO NOT USE ANY RTV OR GASKET MATERIAL***



It sounds weird but it will not leak. Only use the seal and o-ring.

More pics in locker

Steve
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  #18  
Old 01-04-2005, 09:13 PM
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Great pics Steve! Thanks!

-Chike

P.S. Am I getting this right...there is no sealant between the engine block and the back of the oil pump?
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  #19  
Old 01-05-2005, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chiketkd
Great pics Steve! Thanks!

-Chike

P.S. Am I getting this right...there is no sealant between the engine block and the back of the oil pump?
Yes that is correct. there was nothing in any manual or book that I could find about it. There was none on the oil pump housing when i removed it. It was scary at first. I was expecting a huge oil leak. There are no front leaks now.

Steve
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  #20  
Old 01-06-2005, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by immortal_suby
Easy

Remove radiator
Break crank pulley bolt loose (use long breaker bar and starter)
Slide off crank pulley
Take off front belts
Take off power steering idler pulley bracket
Take off A/C idler pulley bracket
Remove plastic timing belt covers
Rotate engine until all timing marks line up and use chalk or marker to mark belt and pulleys just to make sure.
Remove timing belt tensioner
Put vise grips or clamp lightly on timing belt on both cam pulleys to keep belt from slipping off pulley and jumping a tooth
Remove idler pulley for tensioner
Remove toothed crank pulley (slides right off usually)
Drill small hole in crank seal
Use mechanics pick to pull crank seal out (stick it through hole you drilled)
Put grease on new seal and tap it in evenly
Use vise to compress timing belt tensioner and put small allen wrench in hole in tensioner to keep it compressed
Put toothed crank pulley back on
Put tensioner on
Put idler pulley on
Make sure timing belt is lined up correctly
Remove allen bolt from tensioner
Put plastic covers on
Put the rest of the stuff back on
Fill radiator
Drive!

Just did it again this past weekend so it is still fresh in my mind

Ryan McDonald did a good timing belt how-to with pictures that covers 99% of the crank seal process.
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  #21  
Old 01-06-2005, 12:46 PM
Norm
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Front Seal

And use a Subaru OEM seal!!! Those black rubber ones will last about 1000 miles. I've replaced too many! BTW its the same seal as a Legacy 2.2 (Subaru part # 806733010). Might as well do the cam seals too. Same again as the Legacy, (part # 806732050).
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  #22  
Old 01-06-2005, 01:13 PM
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When I replaced my front main seal, I just removed the oil pump (just like Steve's picture shows). It was then very easy to remove the old seal and set the new one. At least you don't have to worry as much about damaging the crank that way.

Concerning the oil pump, I actually did use RTV to seal it. I'm pretty sure that somebody recommended that I use it. Oh, I remember - Chilton's.

Anyway, my car's been fine. No, you don't need it, but I don't see that it hurts, either.

Of course, my 133k-mile tranny did fail a year later. So if you want we can blame it on the RTV.
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