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#1
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my new svx has corrosion
just got it in last night but being a northern car it has been taged by road salt and snow, the exhaust and suspension pieces are all rusted from it, =<
any one have this and suggestions on fixing it,, maybe sand blasting it? or should just let it be as is, ? my last svx with 100k on it didnt have any.
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2008 evo x with sss package 430 hp 380 torque stock turbo with basic bolt ons 12.56 @ 109 fully weighted 3,500 lbs |
#2
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Sand blasting the suspension parts and exhaust gonna take a lot of time and $$$. is there any body rust? this is what's most important in my opinion...
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Danny 1994 Silver SVX in hybernation, awaiting for the monsterous awakening (Lebanon) 1967 Mercedes-Benz 250SL Euro Specs, Hard/Softtop, White/Red. Under Complete Restoration 2013 Mercedes-Benz SL350 Euro Specs, White/Red. Mint... Another step into SL Collection. |
#3
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Not sure if its worth trying to remove the rust, but it would be a good idea to try to remove any remaining salt with a thorough rinsing of the underside of the car. Check the body for rust, especially where the lower panels overlap the upper panels.
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#4
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im going to take a closer look whene i get home i didnt get the car till 11 last night,, looks like the under coating it all in good shape, but the brakes, rear diff and such was rusted,
i will take some snap shots tonight of it for you guys,
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2008 evo x with sss package 430 hp 380 torque stock turbo with basic bolt ons 12.56 @ 109 fully weighted 3,500 lbs |
#5
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Having lost an old Suby to New England road salt, I'd add that you need to check the rocker panels and rear jack points. Any rust perforation there would be bad news.
dcb |
#6
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if you have your own shop quality sandblaster, a room to do it and some fairly rough media Id say go ahead and do it yourself. of course after you get the rust of youll need to rust treat and rubber coat it to prevent any further decay.
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R.I.P Cool Signature. You're gone but not forgotten. I mean, sure, I kindof don't remember some of the finer details..but I remember you were funny, and at one point you said spaghetti in Dutch....but definantly not forgotten |
#7
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eric i have a huge garage and a air compresor that puts body shops to shame LOL
i was hoping for it being such low milage it would have this, =< i also found out it was a smoker!!! ashes in the ash tray =<
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2008 evo x with sss package 430 hp 380 torque stock turbo with basic bolt ons 12.56 @ 109 fully weighted 3,500 lbs |
#8
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I recommend not to sandblast anything while it is still mounted in place. You will create too many spots where it will be impossible to protect it against new rust afterwards.
A far better method would be to blast it with dry ice. This new method removes all dirt, salt, oil and loose parts and leaves paint, plastic and rubber parts clean like brand new. It does only remove loose rust particles. You can do this whithout taking anything apart. The advantage is that you do not create any new vulnerabilities for rust and you can decide what really needs to be done afterwards. If there is the need to sandblast and repaint some supension parts etc. you should definitely take them out first. The idea to take off the rocker panels is a very good one. |
#9
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If it's like my '94, which spent most of its life in Massachusetts, there will be surface rust all over the suspension, drivetrain and exhaust but the body remains unscathed. Just decided to live with it. In the engine bay, various bolts and the pulleys had surface rust. Those could be easily swapped out. The garaged Florida '92, on the other hand, looks like it just rolled out of the showroom.
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Gene and Ben 1992 SVX LS AWD 110K - Liquid Silver 1994 SVX LSi AWD 128K - White Pearl (daily driver) 1994 SVX LSi AWD 95K - Emerald Pearl (sold) 1992 SVX LS-L AWD 115K - Dark Teal 4.44 swap (sold) |
#10
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here are some pics i took lastnight, you guys tell me what you think
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/fil...rsvx/32584.jpg http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/fil...rsvx/32587.jpg http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/fil...rsvx/32585.jpg
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2008 evo x with sss package 430 hp 380 torque stock turbo with basic bolt ons 12.56 @ 109 fully weighted 3,500 lbs |
#11
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I would say just make sure you drench the undercaraige with some fresh water and let it be. I mean, you could and replace all of the parts but thats some serious$$$. Sandblasting would help but like Eric said, you are going to have to re-treat everything to keep it from rusting again. It is a florida car now so I don't think you should have too much trouble keeping it. Just feel lucky since all of the parts that are rusted are usually covered in oil and grime on most cars
Tom |
#12
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thanks tom,, your right every svx i seen has valve covers leaking or fron main bearing leaking this is spotless of any oil,
some one recomended OSFO you can get in paint houses that is a acid stuff i guess that eats it up, the i have to repaint it with rustoliom or something, i was thinking of getting a wire brush for the dremel i have and just going to town, so here it is, chemicals ? sand blasting? dremel with wire brush? or let it be a eye sore,
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2008 evo x with sss package 430 hp 380 torque stock turbo with basic bolt ons 12.56 @ 109 fully weighted 3,500 lbs |
#13
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Wire brush will do a good job. Just make sure you get the surfaces clean before you repaint in. You should be able to pick up some underbody coatign while you are at it and just paint everything....
Tom |
#14
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I'd suggest keeping an eye on the rear strut top mounts. They are likely to be badly corroded.
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#15
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Wow when you said it was rusty i figured it wouldnt be too bad and you're just spoiled from being in Florida, but that's actually pretty bad! Best to deal with it as soon as possible. Like others said before, you can start by swapping out the rusty bolts.
Mike |
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