11:1 Engine Rebuild

Cam · #1 11-05-2009, 09:43 PM

Hi everyone, I am currently tearing down my motor, and am having my machine guy resurface the heads, port and polish, rework the crank, and bore the cylinders out to fit my new 11:1 comp. ratio pistons from ECUtune

. I am also putting the ECUtune camshafts in, and eventually a stage 2 ECU (the tranny will be done later as this is quite spendy and I can only afford one project at a time).

I am also replacing all the stuff that could possibly fail on me, i.e. water pump, oil pump, valve gear, all the seals, vacuum lines (thinking of going with blue silicone), etc. When i have her back in the car I will post pictures.

However, this is my first engine rebuild, and I am not so well educated on the boxer design except for what I have noticed during my teardown. Any tips on things that should be replaced, or things that should be checked would be greatly appreciated.

Well, thats all for now, updates to come. Thanks all.

Cameron

ZMan · #2 11-06-2009, 01:33 PM

Find out if the valves are going to be an interference fit or not with the new pistons. - Ed

Cam · #3 11-07-2009, 04:21 PM

First off, thank you for the suggestion. I do not claim to be some mechanical genius or a schooled automotive tech. I simply have a decent understanding of the EG33 and want as much out of my SVX as possible without taking her off the street or too expensive to drive around.

Michael Emery at ECUtune says that the pistons, cams, and stock valve-gear are all matched up and are zero-interference. That being said, I am hoping that the stock valve gear does not prove too weak.

Does anyone think that an upgraded flywheel or larger torque converter would be necessary? my flywheel does not appear to be cracked or warped, but I saw some that Tom had and they looked pretty beefy.

SVXRide · #4 11-07-2009, 04:47 PM

probably wouldn't hurt to go with the heavier flex plate that yt had in a post a while back (flywheels only come with manual transmissions...

)
Good luck with your build! Make sure to post up pics of your progress

-Bill

Cam · #5 11-07-2009, 06:14 PM

I suppose thats an important little bit of info

. Well, you learn something new everyday.

Any slick ways to seperate the block? I am still working on the circlips

but they will come with time. Patience has been the name of this game so far.

svxcess · #6 11-07-2009, 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SVXRide

Probably wouldn't hurt to go with the heavier flex plate that yt had in a post a while back.

Good luck with your build! Make sure to post up pics of your progress

-Bill

If you have your engine and/or transmission out this is a required purchase.

Subaru Part #12332AA071

This is the Phase II flex plate that is a direct bolt up for our engines and our Phase I transmissions...

According to YT's micrometer, the old style plates are 2.05mm thick
The new style plates are 3.25mm thick.

.

redlightningsvx · #7 11-08-2009, 09:26 AM

Also get some Cometic headgaskets

Cam · #8 11-12-2009, 09:40 PM

I am getting pretty frustrated, and am wondering about an alternate route to break down my cylinder block further. so heres my question...

Can i seperate the block with the pistons connected to the rods and wrist pins? I dont think i would have any problems from looking at it, but it would be nice if someone could confirm that this would work.

I would want to seperate the block and carefully slide the pistons out of the cylinders with the entire crank assembly still assembled. Any suggestions?

yt · #9 11-13-2009, 05:02 PM

Might want to take a peak at a service manual before you destroy your enginezzzz

Tom

P.S. To answer your question... No you cannot split the block halves that way... You could do it the right way though

Cam · #10 11-13-2009, 09:26 PM

I have seen the manual and have used it for most my tear down. It just calls out a couple tools that I don't have (circlip pliers and pin puller), and Subaru is being a serious pain about ordering them. They say they don't normally order tools for customers, and it would take over a month.

Does anybody have a suggestion on how to get the correct pin puller? If it takes a while, it takes a while, but one can always hope for a speedy solution.

Just curious, but why would it not work? Are the cylinders tapered so the pistons only come out one side or what?

SVXelerator · #11 11-13-2009, 10:02 PM

Harbor Freight hemostats for clips

Tapered piece of wooden doweling from Home Depot (yeah, you've got to use a belt sander to put the taper on it) for the pins

Cam · #12 11-13-2009, 10:04 PM

Sounds cheap and simple. Thanks for the suggestion

I will have to get on that tomorrow

kwren · #13 11-14-2009, 08:38 PM

Lynnwood isn't that far from Tacoma! Would you charge admission for people to come and watch this?

Keith

Cam · #14 11-15-2009, 01:19 AM

i had to help a friend move today, so i will have to do get the stuff tomorrow. so if you will be free later in the day

Cam · #15 01-19-2010, 02:12 PM

I know it has been a while since I have posted on this, but progress has been made and I will post pictures later tonight or tomorrow. I have the engine completely broken down. Modified slide hammer did the trick. It will be going to the machine shop later this week hopefully.

So, here are the mods I have decided to go with.

-Stock crank and rods, with 11:1 Forged Pistons from ECUtune
-Stock valve gear, with replaced valve stem seals
-.256 duration (exhaust and intake) Camshafts from ECUtune
-Z32 MAF, SR20DET injectors (370cc), 2v7 ECU from ECUtune

Other than that, things will be stock, minus some powdercoating and rattlecan (high-temp). Gotta make things look nice

As for what the machine shop will be doing

-Resurfacing heads
-Balance of the rotating assembly
-Bore and Finish Hone of cylinders
-and a valve job (regrinding seats and faces, and replacing the valve stem seals)
-Hot Tank EVERYTHING (well, everything that can be that is)

Well, more updates to come as things unfold. I hope to have this whole thing done within 6-8 weeks. All depends on when my parts come in though. Wish me luck!