Getting the big old bolt loose...

[dromano]

Originally Posted by svxfiles

The crankshaft bolt is a big bolt, 14mm X 1.5
Thats bigger than the wheel studs at 12mm X 1.25
The torque specs for the crankshaft bolt are 108-123 ft/lbs.
Most 1/2" drive torque wrenches are about 16" long from the center of the drive to where the outer end of the handle is.
If the average mechanics hand is 4" wide, you would figure the center of pull at 14"s.
To keep the math simple, lets use 15" as the pull point.
So to pull 120 ft/lb of torque you only have to pull 105#s.
Lets say the mechanic is distracted after finding out his cheating wife just spent $3000.00 on lingerie that hes never seen.
Without thinking he pulls 210#s of torque.
The crankshaft bolt is now streached and improperly torqued to double what it should be, 240ft/lbs.
The bolt does not break, but he dented the fender that he was leaning on.
OK, OK, I kid.
If he pulled more than 150 ft/lbs he SHOULD know it.
ESPECIALLY with a torque wrench!
So my best guess is that it might be torqued to 150-160 ft/lbs.
At which point red thread locker is not even an issue.



SO, if you use a torque wrench set to 150-160 ft/lb you should feel safe in removing it while holding the torque converter still with the afore mentioned pry bar.

Good news is always good to read. Thanks a million. I won't be
removing the crank bolt till all the seals arrive. Valve covers are next. I have a dirt road 200-300 ft from the pavement, yesterday I pulled the under cover, had about 1/2 inch of sand/oil mixture, luckily it came off with water. The bottom of the engine/tranny/exhaust behind the headers all are covered with oil & sand: lots of cleaning to do under there. It looks like the right valve cover is the main source of oil, the left side of the timing cover is very wet, so much fun, I just love being a SVX owner.:

[kwren]

I started this thread!
I was mortified at the thought of using the starter to loosen the pulley bolt.
I first decided on the transmission torque converter thing but exhausted all my energy just, and unsuccessfully I might add, trying to find the torque converter. (this should dispel any notion that I really have a clue what I am doing)
However, this doesn't slow me down in trying to help everyone and jumping in with an figurative reply when I see a new post asking for help.

Long story short... The easiest way get "the big old bolt loose... " (if the break over bar doesn't do it) is the starter!

Take care,
Keith

[TomsSVX]

The first step to almost every procedure is.... Disconnect the negative battery terminal... I repeat again... it is NOT a good idea to use the starter to loosen the bolts. There are special tools to lock the flywheel, but if you do not have them.. You should try and lock the starter teeth on the flywheel. It is dangerous and not very wise to use the starter for anything but starting the engine.

Tom

[dromano]

I've removed the crank bolt before by sticking something in the teeth of the fly wheel, (damn that fly wheel is flimsy). I was worried then that I might break the flywheel. How much is the tool from Subaru?

[kwren]

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

The first step to almost every procedure is.... Disconnect the negative battery terminal... I repeat again... it is NOT a good idea to use the starter to loosen the bolts. There are special tools to lock the flywheel, but if you do not have them.. You should try and lock the starter teeth on the flywheel. It is dangerous and not very wise to use the starter for anything but starting the engine.

Tom

A word of caution... The plan "B" method of Getting the big old bolt loose... with the starter will not work with the negative battery terminal disconnected

Keith.

[YourConfused]

Originally Posted by kwren

A word of caution... The plan "B" method of Getting the big old bolt loose... with the starter will not work with the negative battery terminal disconnected

Keith.

Originally Posted by YourConfused

good idea, w/ good success rate, but sometimes it may result in teeth missing from the flex plate, or in our case the torque converter. I have seen it before.

Other idea would be to remove a inspection plug on the block/bell housing and stuff in a screwdriver, breaker bar, whatever...
The idea is to stop the flywheel from turning and then use a breaker bar on the crank bolt to loosen it. The slower introduction of stress on a small area would lessen the possibility of breaking a tooth. I have done it this way and never had a single issue ever. Using the starter is easier though. If you do do the starter method just make sure to disable the car in some way, like un plugging the ignition igniter on the firewall or removing the fuel pump fuse or something.

plan "B" method is never a good idea. just my thoughts on this.

[Landshark]

when i did mine, i used the starter method with a breaker bar duct taped to the alternator. duct tape stability = no flying tools FTW!



i don't think i'd do it that way again, though.

[kwren]

Originally Posted by Landshark

when i did mine, i used the starter method with a breaker bar duct taped to the alternator. duct tape stability = no flying tools FTW!



i don't think i'd do it that way again, though.

Maybe the floor jack handle and duct tape! What a great combination. Keith

[subbieatnz]

i used the starter method lol. mind you the 1st time i did it i put it on the wrong way and yeah the tool got thrown about 5meters away lol

[TomsSVX]

Just to clarify something.

The starter uses one tooth at a time to turn the engine over. It will apply the same amount of torque, if not more, to loosen the bolt. Unless you use something too small or too big to stop the torque converter, you will not break any teeth off of it as it creates the same result as using the starter except it is much safer.

Tom

[Mr. Pockets]

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

The first step to almost every procedure is.... Disconnect the negative battery terminal... I repeat again... it is NOT a good idea to use the starter to loosen the bolts. There are special tools to lock the flywheel, but if you do not have them.. You should try and lock the starter teeth on the flywheel. It is dangerous and not very wise to use the starter for anything but starting the engine.

Tom

I'm going to agree with Tom on this one. I have no doubt that many people have used the starter method successfully, but you could use the same argument to convince yourself to play Russian roulette.

'Well, nothing happened the last time the trigger was pulled.'

I stick a big screwdriver (or prybar http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=1654) in the torque converter teeth and use a long piece of pipe on my breaker bar. 5ft of leverage is always enough, and I have yet to meet the bolt that couldn't be broken loose or broken in half with that pipe.

[huck369]

The "starter method" acts like an impact gun on the bolt, which breaks it loose easily, by holding the flywheel you have "pull" enough to break it loose....
I'll keep using the Starter method myself, as it has never given me any trouble....but to each his own

[dromano]

Just now removed the bolt. Stuck a big screw driver in the fly wheel teeth (he used duct tape to hold it in place), used a 24" breaker bar and an eight foot length of metal electric conduit, so easy I was real surprised, bolt came out with some of the red thread lock stuck to it..

There doesn't seem to be a lot of oil on the front of the engine. Oil seals and O ring next.