Can an SVX roll w/transmission out?

[Brian]

If the transmission is removed from the car, can it roll (by pushing or pulling)? Or with the axels and everything that has been removed to accomodate the transmision removal gone, is it too unstable?

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by Brian

If the transmission is removed from the car, can it roll (by pushing or pulling)? Or with the axels and everything that has been removed to accomodate the transmision removal gone, is it too unstable?

Yes, PROVIDED that you take notice of all that is rotating and do not allow anything to catch or jamb. You may have to support that which is turning. Take notice of what is happening and apply common sense. A helper will be very worthwhile.

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by Brian

If the transmission is removed from the car, can it roll (by pushing or pulling)? Or with the axels and everything that has been removed to accomodate the transmision removal gone, is it too unstable?

The axles have to be bolted in to keep the rear wheels on
but if you are only pushing it around you can support the axles temporarily, with "zip ties".
If you were going to tow it to someone else it would have to be flatbedded.

[Manarius]

Why do the rear axles need to be bolted in? Don't the hubs stay on with the bearing and that setup, not the axle?

[Mr. Pockets]

My biggest worry would be supporting the engine. Without the transmission, it will only have two mounts holding it up. Here's a picture I took during my tranny swap:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/fil...ckets/9042.jpg

You can see I supported the engine with a milk crate, some boards and a jack stand.

I imagine you'll have to think of something clever to keep the engine steady while rolling the car around. Otherwise the engine will fall forward into your radiator.

[Mr. Pockets]

Originally Posted by svxfiles

The axles have to be bolted in to keep the rear wheels on
but if you are only pushing it around you can support the axles temporarily, with "zip ties".
If you were going to tow it to someone else it would have to be flatbedded.

Why are we worrying about the rear wheels? He didn't say the rear diff was out.

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by Manarius

Why do the rear axles need to be bolted in? Don't the hubs stay on with the bearing and that setup, not the axle?

Trust me, the axles need to be bolted in or the rear wheels will leave the car, destroying the rear bearings.

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by Mr. Pockets

My biggest worry would be supporting the engine. Without the transmission, it will only have two mounts holding it up. Here's a picture I took during my tranny swap:
I imagine you'll have to think of something clever to keep the engine steady while rolling the car around. Otherwise the engine will fall forward into your radiator.

This is possible.

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by Mr. Pockets

Why are we worrying about the rear wheels? He didn't say the rear diff was out.

His shop thinks the rear diff fried the trans

[Brian]

The rear diff. is still in the car and the rear axels are still attached. They no longer think it fried the transmission. I want to call AAA, and have them haul it out of that shop when they reopen tomorrow morning. But the car needs to get off the lift and out of the (back of) their garage and onto a flatbed, therefore there will be some rolling involved. Even if the truck can come into the garage, the winched car must still roll up the inclined bed. The exhaust system in the area of the rear diff is also still in place. In fact, I think everything from the big cataytic converter (after the "Y" comes together) on back is stll on the car. (If it's not possible to remove the transmission with this much of the exhaust in place, then I must be remembering incorrectly.) So, with this in mind, is it still necessary to to tie the rear axels? And what about this issue of the engine balancing? Is it really that precarious? And what about the section of the exhaust that's still attached, will that fall down and scrape against the ground? If everything's going to fall apart if I move it w/the transmission, maybe I really am better off leaving it where it is.

[Mr. Pockets]

If it were my car, I'd have them just put the transmission back in the car to move it. They don't even have to complete the installation - just bolt it to the engine and put in the rear transmission mount. They can even leave the exhaust and the prop shaft out of the car.

In my opinion, it's not worth finding a 'solution' to keeping the engine stable. Just put the transmission back in. It should take the shop all of a half an hour.

[svxfiles]

If the rear diff is still installed, there is nothing to ziptie.
The exhaust has four hangers at the muffler, and one hanger at the rear diff, and another at the back of the trans, so it should be fine.
The engine is supported with two mounts, that when good shape, should hold the engine still.
If you were REALLY conserned about the engine rocking, you could run a ratchet strap from the intake manifold (for example) to the dogbone mount on the firewall.

[svxfiles]

Originally Posted by Mr. Pockets

Just put the transmission back in. It should take the shop all of a half an hour.

Book time on a R&R of the trans is five hours.
So they would probably charge 2.5 hours to do it.

[Mr. Pockets]

Originally Posted by svxfiles

Book time on a R&R of the trans is five hours.
So they would probably charge 2.5 hours to do it.

Oof, yeah, then you probably don't want to do that.

Bill is obviously more confident in the engine mounts than I am. Personally, I wouldn't want to stress them that way, but that's just me.

[Suby Fan]

well if they took out the transmission then they prob. took out the CV shafts and if they did that then they definatly unbolted the lower ball joint... and that should be bolted back up if its going to be moved... you should go see the car they always crack me up when a car w/out a engine and/or tranny is rolling... they are like 3" higher