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  #31  
Old 10-01-2005, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NikFu S.

OUCH! so what caused that to happen? that's the same way my pulley looks but your crank key is much worse than mine was.
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  #32  
Old 10-01-2005, 11:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budfreak1
OUCH! so what caused that to happen? that's the same way my pulley looks but your crank key is much worse than mine was.
L0123.

My guess is the key had just become soft somehow.

Hey, about that secret 'sweet spot' you were talkin about, I know exactly where mine is. I think I tried explaining it like last year or something but it didn't really fly around here.
You found the secret to a good hard launch though.
Punch it all the way when you hit about 20mph. ;)
I failed to utilize it when I ran so my 60' times were weak. *shrug*
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  #33  
Old 10-02-2005, 01:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NikFu S.
L0123.

My guess is the key had just become soft somehow.

Hey, about that secret 'sweet spot' you were talkin about, I know exactly where mine is. I think I tried explaining it like last year or something but it didn't really fly around here.
You found the secret to a good hard launch though.
Punch it all the way when you hit about 20mph. ;)
I failed to utilize it when I ran so my 60' times were weak. *shrug*

don't it suck that a 2.77$ part can screw up like 2-300$ worth of parts when it goes bad. that's life in the svx world though i guess.
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  #34  
Old 10-02-2005, 08:33 AM
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Significant Technical Input
Keys malform or shear for three reasons - 1) the center bolt was loose, or 2) the slot in the shaft or pulley was damaged, or 3) extreme excessive torque was applied. Metal doesn't 'go soft' without extreme heat applied. If that level of heat was present at that point there would first be damage to something else, way more obvious, before the key failed. In this case the pulley is softer than the key, which is softer than the crank. This is a good thing as the pulley and key are waaayyy easier to repair than the crank.
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  #35  
Old 10-02-2005, 10:27 AM
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If the metal outer ring was allowed to vibrate, because of a deteriorating rubber insulator, then the whipping action, of the heavy, outer ring, would be transferred to the inner metal ring, attached to the crankshaft.
If the bolt holding the 5#+ pulley loosened, then the whole assembly would beat itself back and forth, hammering the key.
I never use Locktight (blue) on my crank pulley bolt, but you might.
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  #36  
Old 10-02-2005, 04:51 PM
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Torsional Harmonics at work.

When the bolt is loose, the crankshafts torsional harmonics, that the damper is there to resist, are let loose to work the key, the same way they work the crank to crack it.

Harvey.
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  #37  
Old 10-02-2005, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oab_au
When the bolt is loose, the crankshafts torsional harmonics, that the damper is there to resist, are let loose to work the key, the same way they work the crank to crack it.

Harvey.
yeah i figure the schmuck who put the timing belt on wrong probally didn't get the bolt tight either. someone obviously tightened it between then and now but it did's it's damage. wish i could find the former owner and see what's been done to this thing so i have no more little surprises actually, i think i'll start a thread and do just that.
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  #38  
Old 10-03-2005, 11:18 PM
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Cool

got an e-mail today from dhl and my sprocket will be here today. i'll let you all know how it goes.
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  #39  
Old 10-04-2005, 05:26 PM
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it's up and running everything worked out pretty good and went together fairly easy. she's running like a top again other than needing the pre cats replaced. they stunk real good today and the car is feeling held back so i'll take care of them next week. no more pulley wobble and it runs much smoother now. my steering is better now too cause i found a plug off the power steering line right off the resevoir that was disconnected for some reason. why did the former owners unhook so many things???? the alarm, the power steering, and the wires to the vanity lights on my sunvisors are cut too. what else will i find unhooked? couldn't be much more as everything works now.hopefully thanks for all the help guys and for helping me keep my head up on this very hard week. Jason
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  #40  
Old 10-04-2005, 05:33 PM
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I recently found the wires to my vanity lights in the visors cut as well, but I figured it was because the originals sagged and were replaced, only to sag again, which is why I was looking at them.
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  #41  
Old 10-04-2005, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NikFu S.
I recently found the wires to my vanity lights in the visors cut as well, but I figured it was because the originals sagged and were replaced, only to sag again, which is why I was looking at them.
probally the same story with mine. as a little tip: it's kind of ghetto but i took a piece of string(pretty thick) and looped it through the visor and pulled up the trim around the sunroof and tucked the string underneath it and put the trim back on. holds them up just fine (except you can't pull them down easily) and keeps them out of the way.
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  #42  
Old 10-04-2005, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budfreak1
probally the same story with mine. as a little tip: it's kind of ghetto but i took a piece of string(pretty thick) and looped it through the visor and pulled up the trim around the sunroof and tucked the string underneath it and put the trim back on. holds them up just fine (except you can't pull them down easily) and keeps them out of the way.
I went to Lowes to find some velcro thingies. None of them said they would be secure on fabric, but I was thinking of putting like that or a button or something up there so I don't have to do weird things like string or replace them.

I think a swiveling lock dealy would be great. That's what I'm looking into.
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  #43  
Old 10-04-2005, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NikFu S.
I went to Lowes to find some velcro thingies. None of them said they would be secure on fabric, but I was thinking of putting like that or a button or something up there so I don't have to do weird things like string or replace them.

I think a swiveling lock dealy would be great. That's what I'm looking into.
there selling these little sunvisor clips i saw on ebay a few days ago. they look like the perfect solution to the problem. look on there and see if you see them sometime. they just clip on the side of the visor and tuck into the trim along the door and hold up the visor.
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  #44  
Old 10-05-2005, 12:01 AM
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Visor Fix

In the "how-to" section on here, there is a quick, cheap visor fix that you can perform for about $5. I havent found the time to do it yet, but I will be soon. In the mean time, my solution was to take a simple wire coat hanger, cut some pieces off of it, and bend it with some pliers into a shape that fits under the window trim, bends down to support the visor, and then back up to keep it flush agaisnt the visor. Ill take some pics and post them later. It makes the visors a pain in the ass the move up and down, but it works, and wont fail.
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  #45  
Old 10-05-2005, 09:39 PM
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Question

ok now heres the next question. why do the marks on my timing belt change there position? i put the belt on and lined up the marks and after i started it and shut it off the marks on the belt were way ahead of the marks on the cam and crank but all the timing marks on crank and cams are still properly lined up. i retimed it today cause it didn't seem right and that's when i discovered this. it just seems weak now for some reason and i'm trying to figure out why before race day. like i said all the marks are lined up on the cams and crank and it sounds like it's right now, but it just feels weak and that belt thing kinda threw me. how bout it beav? got a little explanation? thanks, Jason
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