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#16
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David thinks it could be the converter locked up, but went away when he replaced the engine temp sensor.
I don't think the converter would be applied by the B solenoid, so it must be draging. Could be cold oil? But if it was draging, it would be slow to turn over on the starter, having to turn the turbine and whole trans. I think the cold start sensor would be a likely cause. Engine lacks the fuel to develope the power to drive, till the temp comes up. Yes I think it is a cold idle problem, more that the converter. Harvey.
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One Arm Bloke. Tell it like it is! 95 Lsi. Bordeaux Pearl, Aust. RHD.149,000Kls Subaru BBS wheels. 97 Liberty GX Auto sedan. 320,000Kls. 04 Liberty 30R Auto Premium. 92.000kls. |
#17
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Ouch
Ok so i used the search, and saw this. Was wondering if anyone know what ever happened with Jen's car. Cause right now i'm having the exact same problem. I'll start my car, its idles normally, if i shift it into drive, it cuts off. Its a really smooth cut off, not rough or anything. The reason why i'm asking is cause everyone actually seemed to fix the problem by putting it into D. So i tried to see if i could get the opposite out of my car, and tried to put it into reverse, and it cut itself off again, but there was a really ugly clunking sound when it cut itself off. It was good after warming up for about 10 minutes. So has anyone else had this problem lately or in the past, and if so how did you fix it?
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#18
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I encountered the exact same problem a few mornings earlier this Winter right after it started to get cold, but like most of the others have said, only after an overnight sit. I hope you get as lucky as I did, mine seems to have sorted itself out. Hasn't happened again in a couple of months.
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Kevin Crutchfield Neophyte SVXer 92 LS-L Ebony/Lqd. Silver, stock, 88xxx miles, flung into a telephone pole by a drunk a month after buying 92 LS-L midnight black 141xxx miles, WRX FPR, MAF bypass, lightened underdrive pulley, formerly AppstateSVX's |
#19
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Quote:
The engine computer, aka ecu, switches in this jet using a solenoid valve. Is it possible your solenoid valve is not working? Or is sticking when it is cold weather? Just a thought. Joe
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#20
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Checking back through the thread and applying logic, would indicate that the first thing to be done is to replace the temperature sensor. The component may be intermittent in operation making fault identification difficult.
This would not be difficult or expensive, and even if not effective would eliminate one possibility from the equation. Whatever, it is important to make every effort to exactly identify all preceding factors in problems such as this. At this point there is confusion, but temperature in my opinion sits at the top of the list.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#21
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What temp sensor would this be, would it be a fuel temp sensor? And would you might have a diagram or a good description of where it would be located?
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#22
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Quote:
A mechanic should be able to replace in 15 minutes charge out time, but draining cooling fluid and refilling will add some.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
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