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  #16  
Old 11-23-2004, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by benebob
What'cha mean by the shifts? My SVX doesn't do that??? It'll drop down as soon as the RPMS allow it to as does my XT6. 70? it'll be an autox car. Rarely do you get much above 50 if that on a good course.
What I'm saying is that if you're going 35mph in any gear besides first and then floor it you will never get first gear even though RPM's allow it. Even pulling the shifter into "1" doesn't work. The lowest you get is second gear.

You would have to slow down even more with 4.11's to get 1st gear. What's the max speed in 2nd gear with 4:11's? 4.44's?

I'm guessing 68mph and 63mph respectively so 4.11's would also be optimal for autox. Just leave the shifter in 1st and go!
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  #17  
Old 11-24-2004, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by SVXer95
http://www.ninosautoaccessories.com/...roducts_id=152

Looks like a couple of people on NASIOC have found ways to go RWD. Looks like the biggest issues are the ability to hold all of the power through the rear output shaft and the rear diff. The rear drive shafts are kind of wimpy as well.

Since this won't be your driver or run on the road, it doesn't have to be reliable, right? I say do it as cheap as possible, and if it breaks find another way. The kit in the link above is to convert a manual subaru tranny properly to RWD without just taking out the driveshafts.
What no picks on that site? $350 bucks sounds like alot for a gutted welded center diff, and you need to send them your AWD diff I don't think so!!!. I made a RWD diff for Phil, I don't know if he has got a chance to install and test it yet though, but if it holds up to his NOS shots then it should hold up to an N/A auto cross.

Note: You HAVE TO leave the front axels in if you do a RWD center diff mod or else the front diff won't spin to spread the gear oil around and keep your bearings happy.
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  #18  
Old 11-25-2004, 10:06 AM
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all i have t say is, you're crazy for wanting to take off the power steering, my belt has snapped before, and it is a ummm.....female dog.....to ty and turn when you don't have PS....
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  #19  
Old 11-25-2004, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by MidnightBlack92
all i have t say is, you're crazy for wanting to take off the power steering, my belt has snapped before, and it is a ummm.....female dog.....to ty and turn when you don't have PS....
Sounds like someone needs to get a gym membership for x-mas . Its shot and money isn't quite there to do everything at once so it is expendable in my opinion. It isn't like the car is gonna be used to parallel park or the like. Ever drive a 60s muscle car w/o PS???
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  #20  
Old 11-25-2004, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by benebob
Ever drive a 60s muscle car w/o PS???
Yup, and it's a lot easier to turn than the SVX without power steering.
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  #21  
Old 11-25-2004, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Earthworm
Yup, and it's a lot easier to turn than the SVX without power steering.
Really??? Now try a Vector w/o PS. Be there done that w/o a problem.
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  #22  
Old 11-26-2004, 10:18 AM
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I'm not saying it can't be done. What I'm trying to say is that when you're competing in auto-x in an SVX without PS you will most definately be slower than if you had PS.
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  #23  
Old 02-11-2005, 06:11 PM
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Alright boys and girls, here's the revised plan. As the tranny in there is functioning (not sounding good in the front dif though and no power to the front wheels). We'd like to use it til it dies. Question is what to do about the bad front dif. My guess is that it has already destroyed the gear on the shaft hence the lack of FWD so in essence aside from the added weight of the parts in there there isn't much use in dropping the tranny just to gut it right now right? Just take the axles off and be happy.

Lets here some thoughts and such on it. Hocrest is under the impression that it could actually seize. I know its a possibility but i wouldn't think it would be all too likely. There is no reason it would do anything to the tranny right?

Anyway to gut the thing on there? Doesn't look like it on the Legacy 4EAT in the garage but worth an ask.
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  #24  
Old 02-12-2005, 12:11 AM
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I'd think if you removed the axles then there wouldn't be any loading on the gears, thus a minimal chance that they'd seize....
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  #25  
Old 02-12-2005, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by benebob


Really??? Now try a Vector w/o PS. Be there done that w/o a problem.
I've been driving non-PS pickup trucks for years, and I can definitely say that steering an SVX is nearly impossible when the PS pump disengaged. I suspect that this is caused by some drag in the PS system. If you remove all the PS equipment, I think it will be more tolerable to steer.
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Last edited by mbtoloczko; 02-12-2005 at 08:34 AM.
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  #26  
Old 02-12-2005, 12:39 PM
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I think Mychailo is right on this.

You are not connected directly by mechanical rods to the steering arms. It goes through the power steering hydraulics, and there is a hell of a load on it.

Joe
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  #27  
Old 02-12-2005, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by benebob


Once you're moving how bad can it be! My XT isn't bad w/o its steering over 5mph so I wouldn't suspect the SVX would be much worse. Besides I should be able to make up more with the lack of the extra belt!

What'cha mean by the shifts? My SVX doesn't do that??? It'll drop down as soon as the RPMS allow it to as does my XT6. 70? it'll be an autox car. Rarely do you get much above 50 if that on a good course.
haveing driven my svx without powerstearing from ocean city to reisterstown md (about 160 miles highway speeds) the car feels like a bus for the love of god keep the pwr steering.

if you remove the batery and run from the alt wouldnt the defy laws of perpetual motion. if you can do it i have a physics teacher that would like to see it. i have seen people try to run motors on them selfs and eventually they all stop.
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  #28  
Old 02-12-2005, 06:14 PM
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well thats an electric motor with a coil atached to fly wheel the motor turns the flywheel that keeps spinning and the coil genorates power for the motor. since this is a gass powered motor it might work.
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  #29  
Old 02-13-2005, 02:24 PM
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Many primitive engines run without a battery; dirt bikes in particular are known for this. The catch is that you can't use an electric start. Usually a generator is used instead of an alternator, but sometimes a small exciter magnet and coil is used to get the alternators pumping. Going battery-less would require jump-starting to get the engine running, so naturally there would be power available to excite the alternator. Various race teams have done things like this before, but it seems like a hassle.

I've also pondered what would be necessary to convert an SVX to rear wheel drive. Inside the transfer case are two gears, which transfer the output from the transmission shaft forward to the front differential via another shaft. The output from the transmission has a clutch pack attached to the end of the shaft right next to the gears that send power to the front differential. If you weld up the clutch pack you have a solid link from the transmission to the rear differential. If you pull the front drive shafts, you've got rear wheel drive. You can remove the front differential and reduce the number of unnecessary spinning parts. If it were me, I'd remove the shaft that goes from the transmission output to the front differential. This will leave holes in the transmission - one in tail of the transmission, one in the front of the transmission, and one in the rear of the front differential housing (which may be the same as the hole in the front of the transmission.) Remove the extra parts, plug the holes, and weld the clutch together. (Plus you can stash contraband inside the empty front differential housing.) I also wonder how the rear driveline would hold up, but there's only one way to find out. Beat the bejezus out of it and see what happens. Since you're not using a manual gear box, I would think it'd survive just fine. Dumping the a clutch is about the worst thing you can do to a driveline.
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  #30  
Old 02-13-2005, 02:59 PM
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Look elsewhere

What you say would work, no doubt, but you still would have to wonder how long the rear diff is going to take all the horsepower.

It seems too complicated a way to do it.

Why not transplant a gearbox and shaft, maybe even rear diff also, from a RWD car?

The obvious choice would be a Nissan Skyline. In 2.5 turbo trim, it is feeding 286+ hp to the rear, and can tune up to 350+ without major drivetrain upgrade.

Another obvious one would be a beefy BMW trans and rear drive.

It's only a matter of mating up the bell housing and the length of the driveshaft.

No?

Joe
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