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  #16  
Old 10-28-2004, 07:05 AM
Notall There
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Just had new platinum spark plugs when i did the gaskets, will try a left-right swap 1st though!
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  #17  
Old 10-28-2004, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Notall There
Just had new platinum spark plugs when i did the gaskets, will try a left-right swap 1st though!
pls state the result when you know.
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  #18  
Old 10-28-2004, 07:37 AM
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if the injectors were the cause of the problem, change them all.
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  #19  
Old 10-28-2004, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by camosuba
i've checked here and you can only buy the whole unit so we'll have to check them out . Would i be right in the assumption that the coils are the same as each other but the wiring lengths are different ? which is why there are 3 different part numbers? are the plugs different as well?
regards camo
The plugs are color-coded, but truthfully I don't recall if the plugs could be mis-connected. I'll take a look tonight at the old ones and let you know. On the FI issues, they can be easily disconnected one by one noting any change in idle.

Glenn
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  #20  
Old 10-28-2004, 10:10 AM
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Save your pennies

If the leads are losing their insulation use silicone to 're-insulate' them. Just allow enough time for the silicone to set-up before re-installing. Or, if you're really anal you could clip the wires, slide on some shrink tubing and re-solder the wires back together.

Nick (Mr. Pockets) long ago found some spark plug boots that fit the end of the coils when his decided to stay in the spark plug wells and had to be dug out with a pick (not uncommon on any hemi-headed engine.) Even if you had to buy a set of wires to get them, that would be cheaper. My suggestion: stop by a tune-up shop and sweet talk them into selling you some, they typically make up their own wires when a single wire is damaged.

Protect boots from future damage by applying a dab of silicone grease to the boots whenever you have the coils off. This will not only keep the boots pliable, it also insulates them electrically and prevents them from sticking to the spark plug and the sides of the well. My fav:
Also available in larger bottles with a brush inside. Useful on many things, silicone grease will not cause synthetic rubber parts to deteriorate like petroleum lubricants (white grease, etc.) will.
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  #21  
Old 10-28-2004, 06:39 PM
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OK, Looked at the coils and aside from being tan, green, and blue connectors it appears they are identical. I was thinking on the way in that you could just buy the longest one and swap it to each plug til the culprit is ID'd, and I find another new thread about the same subject (bad coil) suggesting the same thing. If the miss/cough is regular enough the FI suggestion I made previously will work. That's how my tech figured it out when I had a "definite" miss and failed coil. I suppose the spark plug boot/silicone suggestion could work as well, but I hesitate to "R Goldberg" it, only to be redoing it again later. Just anal I guess.

Glenn
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  #22  
Old 10-28-2004, 07:27 PM
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It definitely isn't 'Goldberg', it is an effective repair of a simple issue. Your opinion may vary. (YOMV)
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  #23  
Old 10-28-2004, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by RojoRocket
Just anal I guess.

Glenn
No offense meant Beav.
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1993 25th Anniversary Edition #63 of 301. R.I.P. Rojo 7/24/2008 She saved my life!
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1998 5-Spd Legacy GT Wagon in Glacier White: NUBURU
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  #24  
Old 10-28-2004, 07:50 PM
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Absolutely none taken. Just didn't want someone that could use the money elsewhere to think they just had to spend the money for a new coil if it could be 'repaired' so easily.
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  #25  
Old 10-29-2004, 11:19 AM
TonyShaleUK
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Had a similar problem to this. Gradually got worse. No1 coil pack had a tracking line running the full length of the insulator. I did a temporary fix by warming the engine, taking out the pack and spraying with damp start, creating a silicone seal. Then wrapped in insulating tape and re-sprayed. I've been running fine like this for 5000 miles or so, never having had the time to replace the unit with the new one sitting in the trunk!
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  #26  
Old 10-31-2004, 06:58 AM
Notall There
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Had a good look at them yesterday, 1 was broke, & 3 were not in good shape, looks like the plastic gets hot & starts 2 melt almost!

Got a few pics in my locker, did a temperary fix by using silicon sealer between the body of the coil & the rubber boot, to stop them tracking out, then wrapped them in insulation tape & sprayed them with WD40! Seems 2 run nicely now, gonna have a good drive 2day!

Phil.
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  #27  
Old 10-31-2004, 07:23 AM
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Happy you found your problem.

Uh...you've got a lot of broken pics, are you waiting for them to completely download before clicking back to upload the next one?
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  #28  
Old 11-05-2004, 04:20 PM
Notall There
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Yep! That was the problem! Ordered 1 new coil pack cos it was broken, but the temperary fix has cured it!

Phil.
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  #29  
Old 11-05-2004, 05:00 PM
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& Uploaded the pics PROPERLY this time

Phil.
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  #30  
Old 11-05-2004, 05:48 PM
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The tape is probably neither needed nor a good idea. The adhesive could potentially be conductive. I know that sounds odd, being that it is electrical tape, but it wasn't exactly meant to be insulating tens of thousands of volts. The silicone itself would probably suffice on its own. My best guess: the boots deteriorate. allowing the initial spark leak, then the tube's ability to insulate is compromised by the erosion caused by the arcing.
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