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#1
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Sounds Like Brake Time
I have a ‘92 SVX w/235 k mile on it and it runs great. My car's front brakes have been squeaking for at least 3 yrs. procrastinating as always, I kept putting my brakes off for another day.
Lately the squeaking has subsided and now there is an alarming sound coming from the passenger side tire when I apply the brake. Ok so here goes at my best description of the noise, it makes a 'clunk... it kind of feels like the rotor slips forward about 4'' inches. I will be putting the car in the shop this Monday. My question is, could I have damaged the caliper, or are the worn out pads and rotor for that side just slipping a little bit? Oh yeah, just for a side note, I will be going with drilled rotors and ceramic pads for the new parts. Has anyone ever upgraded the brake lines to one of the many brake kits around..... I just want to know how hard of a job it is to replace the lines in case I decide to spend the extra $ for the lines.
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http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?Archer999 Last edited by Archer999; 04-28-2007 at 02:02 PM. |
#2
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You can get 4 stainless steel brake lines from svx motorsport for around $100, which is a pretty fair deal. As far as the sound, run your fingers along the rotors from inner to outer edge, and see if you feel any grooves. If so, your pads got so low they damaged the rotors, and you will need new ones. If not, you may just be hearing the warning sound that some pads have built in to indicate that it's time to change the pads. I just picked up 4 new rotors, and 8 new pads for 220$ + shipping, and they're working quite well. I plan to upgrade to the ceramic pads shortly, as the current pads leave a bit of dust on the rotors, causing it to squeel at times. They're 37$ for 4 from autozone online or in store.
Changing brake lines, i believe you'll have to drain the system. To do this i would open the bleader lines on 2 calipars and pump the brakes. When fluid stops draining, you can remove hte lines without a problem, and install the new ones. I'm hesitant to advise this though, as i ruptured the master cylander in my explorer after draining the brake fluid this way, but it has a "special" system that requires a special bleeding tool as well, so perhaps someone else can advise on this before going ahead with it.
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*No SVX at the moment...* 1987 Winnebago Elandan 35' 2001 Yamaha Roadstar 1600 2004 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer, 6.0litre Power Stroke Diesel - Daily Driver. Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, scotch in one hand, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming HOOOOYA !!!!! |
#3
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I recommend staying with Subaru rubber brake lines. I replaced mine with SS and two have broken at the connectors. I also noticed that the insides are made of some type of plastic.
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#4
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The insides of any line will be rubber or a sythetic rubber. SS only means it has SS mesh on the outside to help with the expansion/contraction. I too had problems with the SS lines with plastic connectors. Dayle says he now has ones with metal clips instead. IMO take the old ones to a hydro shop and have some made, locally they're about $120 for a set. The subaru ones are now 15ish years old rubber so they're gonna be kinda dried out even if you would go oem
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British vehicles are my last ditch attempt to keep the nasty Italian thoughts in my mind at bay. So far its working. |
#5
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I like the SS Brake lines. They do have the metal clips on them though. The brakes are much more responsive.
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. Earl .... ... .... ><SVX(*> Subaru Ambassador [COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430 1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739 1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831 1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680 1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229 1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car) 1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913 1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164 1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176 1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215 1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525 1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624 1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961 1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855 1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872 1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097 2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951 1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420 My Email | Old Locker | New Locker | Picture of 15 of the 19 |
#6
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British vehicles are my last ditch attempt to keep the nasty Italian thoughts in my mind at bay. So far its working. |
#8
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I did a search on SS brake lines, and the insides are made of teflon. They are stronger than rubber. But the part that breaks more often, are the plastic boots that hold them to the connectors.
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#9
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In reality true rubber is simply the best for inards but it costs too much which is why the rubber lines are only like 10% rubber.
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British vehicles are my last ditch attempt to keep the nasty Italian thoughts in my mind at bay. So far its working. |
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