Water pump replacements?

[irox]

Hi BobSVX96,

thanks for the explanation, I now understand what you mean about the 3 outlets.

I've got a spare water pump I am planning to install soon. This one is a 2 outlet pump, but it looks like the casting would support another outlet, opposite side to the 2 outlets. I am guesting it is possible to drill the hole and press a connector sleeve (not sure the term for them) into the hole for connecting up another hose.

I took a picture:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/P46PPyCTu9H6FRYw8
The place the fitting would be installed is in the upper left.

I took a picture of the outlet fittings for reference:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/faemdn3WtrbHVZ878
Note the fittings are different sizes. One appears to be 5/8" and the other 1/2".

I am not sure which fitting you would need for your oil cooler, but I do see fittings available, for example:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fss-84716

I would image most small machine shop could perform the modification, or you would do it at home if you have drill press and a press. Although looking at my pump, it was either dropped or they put the smaller fitting in using a hammer.

[Noriyasu]

Originally Posted by BobSVX96

...and on the technical side...
I know that I should IDEALLY put in a new water pump when I service the timing belt...but what's the downside of keeping the current water pump (which has been working fine)?
Tks, BobSVX96.

The main reason to replace the water pump when replacing the timing belt every 100,000 km is because it cannot be replaced without removing the timing belt. The life of the pump may be a little longer. Not limited to SVX, if you don't plan to drive another 100,000 km and want to use the car just for a little more, I think you have the option of not replacing it.

Pls check the leak from water pump and check it round smoothly at least.

Or, you can replace pump after you get it. Morever, it is unlikely that the timing belt will break immediately even after a little over 100,000 km. The EG33 is not a very high-revving engine, and since it is AT, there is no possibility of excessive engine braking caused by suddenly engaging the clutch meet. I don't think EG33 need to be as nervous as the EJ20 I own (rev limit is 7800 rpm).

I skipped replacing the WP when replacing the timing belt last time on my sister's SUBARU (Engine is EN07). She has done 160,000 km with no problems though she always drives very gently.

FYI

[Noriyasu]

I'll add a few things.

I've never seen WP lock up. If there is a problem with the coolant, for example a large amount of rust, the impeller may lock up due to corrosion.

I have replaced WP and timing belts on more than 10 SUBARUs which own by me, family and friends, and I think the first sign of damage is a coolant leak.

Coolant leaks from around the impeller shaft. The shaft is sealed with a rubber seal and spring, but as the seal deteriorates or the shaft wears, it seems likely that leaks will occur. The degree of deterioration is thought to largely depend on the environment in which the car is used and the condition of the coolant.

I'm not saying replacing it is mandatory, but it's a well-known fact that it's safer to replace it if you can get a compatible product.

[irox]

Hi Noriyasu,

I have repaired a Subaru (1990 Legacy with the 2.2L engine) that has a seized water pump. From what I can tell, once the pump stops turning (or stiffens up and becomes hard to turn), the time belt will continue to rub over the WP pulley, this puts tension in part of the belt (as the seized pulley now pulls on the belt) putting extra stress on the idler pulleys. Eventually the idler pulley bearing will fail, shooting ball bearing every where and causing the timing belt to come off.

Fortunately the 3.3 and 2.2 engines are non-interference engines and the vehicle could be repaired. Although I think the incident would shorten the life expectancy of the engine.

Even if your water pump doesn't seize completely, as it degrades it will get stiffer to turn, the this put stress on other components driven by the timing belt.

I do agree that it is also easier to change the PW when you do the timing belt, but there are good reasons to change it before it fails.

[Noriyasu]

Originally Posted by irox

Hi Noriyasu,

I have repaired a Subaru (1990 Legacy with the 2.2L engine) that has a seized water pump. From what I can tell, once the pump stops turning (or stiffens up and becomes hard to turn), the time belt will continue to rub over the WP pulley, this puts tension in part of the belt (as the seized pulley now pulls on the belt) putting extra stress on the idler pulleys. Eventually the idler pulley bearing will fail, shooting ball bearing every where and causing the timing belt to come off.

Fortunately the 3.3 and 2.2 engines are non-interference engines and the vehicle could be repaired. Although I think the incident would shorten the life expectancy of the engine.

Even if your water pump doesn't seize completely, as it degrades it will get stiffer to turn, the this put stress on other components driven by the timing belt.

I do agree that it is also easier to change the PW when you do the timing belt, but there are good reasons to change it before it fails.

I also agree with you said. its case by case.

There may be cases like that. Before the WP completely stopped working, I think there were signs such as belt rubbing sounds and the time it took for the water temperature to rise abnormally quickly.

For users who do not notice such abnormalities, preventive replacement is essential.

When using a classic car, the number of parts that cannot be repaired increases. There will be more cases where we have to be careful for car condition when driving.

[Noriyasu]

Hi,

The point of this problem is that it is not clear which compatible WPs will fit SVX.

There are several third-party versions for sale on eBay, Amazon, etc., but I've heard from Mika and seen review by others that the WP sold for SVX doesn't fit.

Unfortunately, the compatibility information on the internet doesn't seem to be very accurate.

In my case, I don't drive the SVX so often, so I probably won't replace the WP again. However, it is a serious problem for those who need now. I hope Mika finds usable one.

[Cloud]

Originally Posted by Mika

I don't know if there's something odd in my SVX, or if the oil cooler has been retrofitted into it at some point.

I'd need to get Monotaro's page translated somehow to order something from them. A genuine 21111AA033 does not seem to be available here, but I'll go check from the local Subaru dealer.

All EU Spec SVX have the oil cooler, its one of the measures to get them Autobahn ready. Another one are the vented brake discs on the rear which -big surprise- arent available anymore, just like the water pumps.

Basicly the go to is that you only change the SVX waterpump if you absolutely have to and you always look for a company that restores the old one.

Another option was to get a foreign water pump (usually US as its cheapest to order from them) and have a company weld on the missing inlet.

But afaik original water pumps are out of stock completely and cant be ordered anywhere anymore. The gmb waterpumps might be a good replacement but I hope some americans can give some information on them. The GMB head gasket and timing belt stuff is usually pretty good.

[Noriyasu]

Originally Posted by Cloud

All EU Spec SVX have the oil cooler, its one of the measures to get them Autobahn ready. Another one are the vented brake discs on the rear which -big surprise- arent available anymore, just like the water pumps.

Basicly the go to is that you only change the SVX waterpump if you absolutely have to and you always look for a company that restores the old one.

Another option was to get a foreign water pump (usually US as its cheapest to order from them) and have a company weld on the missing inlet.

But afaik original water pumps are out of stock completely and cant be ordered anywhere anymore. The gmb waterpumps might be a good replacement but I hope some americans can give some information on them. The GMB head gasket and timing belt stuff is usually pretty good.

Hello, I understand the reason for the third outlet. Thanks.

And, I agree with quality of GMB. I used GMB WP for old SUBARUs (not SVX) and no problem for now.

By the way, the oil cooler transfers the heat from the engine oil to the coolant. The water temperature in SVX tends to rise to begin with, but I feel like this will accelerate it. Does the EU specification SVX also have a upgraded radiator?

The water thermometer in the meter cluster has hysteresis, so you cannot see changes in temperature within the normal range. If you look at the SSM, you can clearly see that the water temperature is rising quickly.

BTW, for the 3rd outlet for oil-cooler, wouldn't it be safer to add an outlet with a T-joint? I am reluctant to modify WP.

[BobSVX96]

Great help, everyone. Tks.

In summary...
EU spec SVX has 3 "barb" water pump.
US spec has 2 barb water pump.
Neither is available from Subaru.

A few non-OEM suppliers claim proper fit, but not verified by anyone on this site.
For non-OEM, I have seen:
GMB: https://gmb.net/product/160-2050/
Carquest: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ctedStore=7616
USMW: https://www.usmotorworks.com/catalog/

So, bottom line...
(1) Can anyone on this forum verify the fit of any of these 3 water pumps...or any other available non-OEM water pump?
(2) And if this forum comes up blank for a verified WP replacement, then just keep my current WP...roll the dice...and look out for coolant leaks for the foreseeable future.

Much appreciated. And feel free to correct or add anything.
Cheers, B.

[Noriyasu]

Originally Posted by BobSVX96

Great help, everyone. Tks.

In summary...
EU spec SVX has 3 "barb" water pump.
US spec has 2 barb water pump.
Neither is available from Subaru.

A few non-OEM suppliers claim proper fit, but not verified by anyone on this site.
For non-OEM, I have seen:
GMB: https://gmb.net/product/160-2050/
Carquest: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ctedStore=7616
USMW: https://www.usmotorworks.com/catalog/

So, bottom line...
(1) Can anyone on this forum verify the fit of any of these 3 water pumps...or any other available non-OEM water pump?
(2) And if this forum comes up blank for a verified WP replacement, then just keep my current WP...roll the dice...and look out for coolant leaks for the foreseeable future.

Much appreciated. And feel free to correct or add anything.
Cheers, B.

Please note that I am talking about a very small amount of coolant leak, not a loss of coolant. A small leak can see dry coolant on the underside of the WP. Usually it is green or reddish whitish, often we can see it on radiator hoses.

[Noriyasu]

I'm currently overhauling another Subaru's engine.

I took a photo of the coolant leak, so I'm attaching it for reference.

This engine is a used engine that has been used for about 60,000km, so its condition is not well known.