Steering Problem Help

I saw the how-to and other write-ups and it really seemed like tedious work. You will also need to get an alignment when you complete the duty. On a level of mechanical car skills I rate myself a "8" out of 10! I didn't even mess with this one!

I just saw this in case it's usefull.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2461024026

Randy ii

[svx_commuter]

John I have not been wanting to do this for the same reason as you. Now however, someone else has taken the plunge. Take a look at this thread.

All of that laying on a cold garage floor? My car is lowered too!

[gl1674]

I have also noticed that the binding seems to occur when the wheel is turned 90 degrees and then every 180 after that and in either direction. The speed actually does not matter. I think this points to something being worn out on the pinion shaft. ( I seem to remember a post about this.)

That sounds pretty much like U-Joint between pinion and steering column shaft is gone.
This may be a very good news because it is much cheaper than the rack itself and much less work to get it replaced. You do not need to remove the rack to get to the u-joint.

The more I think about it, the more I'm convinced your rack itself is good. 180 degree bindings are definitely something only u-joint can cause. if rack was leaking internally and not providing adequate power assist, you would notice a dramatic difference in the effort depending on car speed, and you would still have proper return to straight line (it's determined by suspension geometry, not by power assist). Your description points to resistance somewhere in between the steering wheel and the pinion - u-joint is the most likely suspect.

[svx_commuter]

The Lucas PS additive fixed the problem for my SVX.

[SVX JAZZ]

Lucas gave me another year of life on mine. It finaly started binding real bad. I wish I had some WD-40 here at work so I could spray some on the U-joint.

My rack was shot though. Leaking bad.