Persistent wheel bearing failure

scoobydrvr · #1 08-04-2013, 05:23 PM

So, I know this car is notorious for bearing failures and mine are failing too. I've been wondering: is there something I can do to make this next set last longer? Was the cause of the failures ever identified?

svxfiles · #2 08-04-2013, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scoobydrvr

So, I know this car is notorious for bearing failures and mine are failing too. I've been wondering:
1) is there something I can do to make this next set last longer?
2)Was the cause of the failures ever identified?

1) You can use ONLY Factory Subaru seals!
(I only use Factory Subaru bearings)
If you use Subaru bearings be sure to wash them/clean them thoroughly to get the "packing" grease out of them before you pack them with a high temperature grease.
I personally like Advance Auto Parts #2 Extreme Pressure Lithium Grease (red).

2) I believe that the cause was installing new bearings without cleaning and repacking them.
There is another theory that the "packing" grease was incompatable with the "American" grease used and caused the combination of greases to fail.

Another thing that you can check is if the front axle has been replaced with an aftermarket axle, does it fit the factory seal?

Sometimes aftermarket axles are incorrectly made allowing water/debris to enter the bearing area causing early failure.

scoobydrvr · #3 08-04-2013, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by svxfiles

... Another thing that you can check is if the front axle has been replaced with an aftermarket axle, does it fit the factory seal?

Sometimes aftermarket axles are incorrectly made allowing water/debris to enter the bearing area causing early failure.

Luckily (?) my current failure is with the rear axles but when/if my fronts fail I'll keep that in mind.

Regarding the greases: I ran that past my dad, who was a master tech for Subaru when these cars were just going out of production. He said that Subaru told them about the greases and they still had them come back after a couple months. His theory is that the hubs weren't cut deep enough and the extra pressure caused them to fail. The techs were finally told to take the car for a drive after replacing the bearing and, if the hub was warm, to replace the hub until it came back cool.

dannmarr · #4 08-04-2013, 08:52 PM

Don't over tighten the Axle nut, torque to specs.

scoobydrvr · #5 08-05-2013, 11:35 AM

I, erm, don't mean to be argumentative, but I have trouble believing it's something as simple as correct torque on the axle nut. I agree that it will help but I don't think that's the root of the problem...

immortal_suby · #6 08-05-2013, 02:24 PM

Over torquing has been said to permanently deform the hub which will lead to continued bearing failures even if they are correctly torqued.

scoobydrvr · #7 08-05-2013, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by immortal_suby

Over torquing has been said to permanently deform the hub which will lead to continued bearing failures even if they are correctly torqued.

Okay, that makes a little more sense to me. So a new hub should take care of the problem?

dannmarr · #8 08-05-2013, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scoobydrvr

I, erm, don't mean to be argumentative, but I have trouble believing it's something as simple as correct torque on the axle nut. I agree that it will help but I don't think that's the root of the problem...

I was just adding to the many possibilities

svxcess · #9 08-05-2013, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by svxfiles

1) You can use ONLY Factory Subaru seals!
(I only use Factory Subaru bearings)
If you use Subaru bearings be sure to wash them/clean them thoroughly to get the "packing" grease out of them before you pack them with a high temperature grease.
I personally like Advance Auto Parts #2 Extreme Pressure Lithium Grease (red).

2) I believe that the cause was installing new bearings without cleaning and repacking them.
There is another theory that the "packing" grease was incompatable with the "American" grease used and caused the combination of greases to fail

According to Subaru, all of the new replacement bearings now come packed with the proper grease, ready to install. They said they no longer use the inferior shipping grease, FWIW.
.

Huskymaniac · #10 08-05-2013, 10:47 PM

I will second the hub suggestion. Nate told me that after I had a replacement bearing fail after a year. I had my mechanic replace the bearing AND hub when I got back from Reading in 2012 and the new bearing is still OK. Turns out, he was an ex-subaru mechanic as well and said that a return bearing issue was dealt with in this exact manner. If repeat failure, replace hub.

The whole grease thing confused the hell out of me. I was told the same thing about bearing no longer being packed in crappy grease by both Subaru people and Timken people. I went ahead and cleaned and re-greased the new bearing with M1 grease. It was a nasty and messy job which I probably made harder than it needed to be. I don't think I will do that again.

scoobydrvr · #11 08-06-2013, 07:12 AM

Looks like I'll be ponying up the cash for some new hubs then. But holy cow... $140 each!?! Is there an aftermarket option for these?
I know owning an SVX is an expensive proposition but $480 + shipping for the whole job is... ouch.

svxfiles · #12 08-06-2013, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Huskymaniac

I will second the hub suggestion. Nate told me that after I had a replacement bearing fail after a year. I had my mechanic replace the bearing AND hub when I got back from Reading in 2012 and the new bearing is still OK. Turns out, he was an ex-subaru mechanic as well and said that a return bearing issue was dealt with in this exact manner. If repeat failure, replace hub.

The whole grease thing confused the hell out of me. I was told the same thing about bearing no longer being packed in crappy grease by both Subaru people and Timken people. I went ahead and cleaned and re-greased the new bearing with M1 grease. It was a nasty and messy job which I probably made harder than it needed to be. I don't think I will do that again.

Are you talking about the hub, the part that rotates and the disc bolts to,
or the housing that the bearing gets pressed into.

Huskymaniac · #13 08-06-2013, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by svxfiles

Are you talking about the hub, the part that rotates and the disc bolts to,
or the housing that the bearing gets pressed into.

I think I am talking about the part the bearing gets pressed into. I don't remember. I think Nate gave me the part number at the time.

EDIT:

Found my old order. Here are the parts, aside from the Timken bearing which I bought from Rock Auto:

1 28015AA080 OIL SEAL $8.47
1 28015AA070 OIL SEAL $7.00
1 28035AA010 SNAP RING F $2.34
1 28052PA010 HUB CP R $140.42

So which part was I talking about?

scoobydrvr · #14 08-06-2013, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Huskymaniac

I think I am talking about the part the bearing gets pressed into. I don't remember. I think Nate gave me the part number at the time.

EDIT:

Found my old order. Here are the parts, aside from the Timken bearing which I bought from Rock Auto:

1 28015AA080 OIL SEAL $8.47
1 28015AA070 OIL SEAL $7.00
1 28035AA010 SNAP RING F $2.34
1 28052PA010 HUB CP R $140.42

So which part was I talking about?

I made this exact part list today. That is the part listing for the hub, not the bearing holder.

Huskymaniac · #15 08-06-2013, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scoobydrvr

I made this exact part list today. That is the part listing for the hub, not the bearing holder.

I just looked at the picture and realized I was confused. Big surprise. I thought the bearing was pressed onto the hub. Now I see it is pressed into the housing. How loose is the fit between the bearing inside race and the hub?

Regardless, it was the hub I replaced with the bearing, not the housing.