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  #16  
Old 07-01-2011, 02:45 PM
XT6Wagon XT6Wagon is offline
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod

should just be able to pull out the old one and replace it. The FSM has you unbolt the trailing arm at the hub, and pop the axle out of the differential, but I'm not sure either is required.
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  #17  
Old 07-01-2011, 02:51 PM
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod

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Originally Posted by Crazy_pilot View Post
Well there are only two bolts that need to come out to change it, but they're kind of a total pain in the ass. One is the huge bolt that goes through the knuckle and both links, the other is the eccentric alignment bolt (If it's the rear arm, if it's the front arm it's just a plain bolt). If they're friendly/you have air tools it's only a 10 minute job, but if they're not it'll be a fight.
Air tools, or a very big breaker bar.
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  #18  
Old 07-01-2011, 03:51 PM
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod

Am I going to be able to get the bolt out from the inside end of the link without removing the axle?
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  #19  
Old 07-01-2011, 03:52 PM
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod

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Originally Posted by VectorNut View Post
Am I going to be able to get the bolt out from the inside end of the link without removing the axle?
Yes I think so.
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  #20  
Old 07-02-2011, 01:00 PM
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod

Argh, I'm going to have to remove the CV axle. The bolt holding the lateral link in is 2 inches or so too long to clear the axle. I'm hoping I can just disconnect it from the differential, rather than completely removing it. Any suggestions on just disconnecting the inner end of the axle? Seems to me like I need to remove the CV boot, hammer out the spring pin, and then the axle should come off of the differential. I have a sneaky suspicion I'll have to disconnect at least one end of the lateral links to be able to do that, which means getting the long bolt that connects both lateral links to the hub assembly out of the hub assembly.
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  #21  
Old 07-02-2011, 01:27 PM
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod

There are no spring pins on the rear axles, they just pop out.

But I don't think you should need to disconnect the axle to get the links off. You would need to take off the links to get the axles off though.
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  #22  
Old 07-02-2011, 02:12 PM
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod

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Originally Posted by icingdeath88 View Post
There are no spring pins on the rear axles, they just pop out.

But I don't think you should need to disconnect the axle to get the links off. You would need to take off the links to get the axles off though.
The bolt at the inner end of the front lateral link won't come out in order for me to remove the inner end of the lateral link from the car. The bolt is a good 3 or 4 inches long, and I can only get it an inch or so out before it hits the axle.
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  #23  
Old 07-02-2011, 02:36 PM
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod

Ok well in that case, disconnect the outer end of the lateral links, then pop the axle out of the diff. It's held in with kind of a spring clip inside the diff; make sure they go back in correctly. The two axles are also a bit different, but they both do pop out. The left one I found more difficult.
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  #24  
Old 07-02-2011, 02:37 PM
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod

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Originally Posted by VectorNut View Post
The bolt at the inner end of the front lateral link won't come out in order for me to remove the inner end of the lateral link from the car. The bolt is a good 3 or 4 inches long, and I can only get it an inch or so out before it hits the axle.
What if you put a jack under the wheel/hub to compress that corner? Would that shift the axle out of the way enough?

On second thought, I guess compressing the corner would tend to shift the wheel outward if the lat links is already partially disconnected. Or put stress on it and "pop" out when you do the that last bolt free.
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  #25  
Old 07-02-2011, 02:39 PM
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod

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Originally Posted by Hocrest View Post
What if you put a jack under the wheel/hub to compress that corner? Would that shift the axle out of the way enough?

On second thought, I guess compressing the corner would tend to shift the wheel outward if the lat links is already partially disconnected. Or put stress on it and "pop" out when you do the that last bolt free.
That seems dangerous.
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Now a mod "over there" ............Photo album
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  #26  
Old 07-03-2011, 09:51 PM
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod

Ahh, you found out that one of the bolt is just too long and the axle has to come out! I found out the same thing and ordered another bolt. My plan is to leave the axle intact in the diff and just cut the old bolt out, change out the arm and install a new bolt.....well, that's my theory anyway! I'm trying to avoid having to deal with the axle but that may not be too big of a deal. I wonder if gear oil will leak out if your remove the axle out of the diff?
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  #27  
Old 07-03-2011, 09:55 PM
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod

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Originally Posted by alia176 View Post
I wonder if gear oil will leak out if your remove the axle out of the diff?
No it won't. The normal fill level is below the axle holes. If the diff is overfilled or tilted to the side it will leak out.
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  #28  
Old 07-03-2011, 11:28 PM
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod

I changed the rear arm on mine without removing the axle....
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  #29  
Old 07-04-2011, 04:18 PM
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod

If you have to cut the old bolt to get it out, you'll have to cut the new bolt to get it in. Which won't work.

The rear bolt attaches differently than the front does, and you can get the bolt out without the axle being in the way.
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  #30  
Old 07-05-2011, 09:15 AM
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod

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Originally Posted by VectorNut View Post
The rear bolt attaches differently than the front does, and you can get the bolt out without the axle being in the way.
When I backed this particular bolt out, it was obstructed by the CV boot. What is your secret in removing this bolt?
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