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#16
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod
should just be able to pull out the old one and replace it. The FSM has you unbolt the trailing arm at the hub, and pop the axle out of the differential, but I'm not sure either is required.
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#17
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod
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'94 Laguna Blue LSi ~159k.......JDM ultra short-geared 3.900 STi Version 7 6-speed w/ Cobb shortshifter, ECUtune 244,8.1mm/256,9.1mm i/e cams, group N motor mounts, '97 grille, JDM clear corners, Momo JDM Legacy GT steering wheel, apkarian's LED tails, silver STi BBS wheels, PWR radiator, redstuff pads f/r, drilled/slotted rotors, bontragerworks rsb #18, Koni/GC 450f/375r coilovers, Megan Racing adjustable lateral links, KMac c/c plates, Stebro exhaust, ECUtune 1v5, Optima battery in the trunk where it belongs. Turbo project '97 Ebony LSi ~137k #036.......Power mode mod, JDM clear corners, BBS wheels. AUX/pocket mod Now a mod "over there" ............Photo album |
#18
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod
Am I going to be able to get the bolt out from the inside end of the link without removing the axle?
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#19
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod
Yes I think so.
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'94 Laguna Blue LSi ~159k.......JDM ultra short-geared 3.900 STi Version 7 6-speed w/ Cobb shortshifter, ECUtune 244,8.1mm/256,9.1mm i/e cams, group N motor mounts, '97 grille, JDM clear corners, Momo JDM Legacy GT steering wheel, apkarian's LED tails, silver STi BBS wheels, PWR radiator, redstuff pads f/r, drilled/slotted rotors, bontragerworks rsb #18, Koni/GC 450f/375r coilovers, Megan Racing adjustable lateral links, KMac c/c plates, Stebro exhaust, ECUtune 1v5, Optima battery in the trunk where it belongs. Turbo project '97 Ebony LSi ~137k #036.......Power mode mod, JDM clear corners, BBS wheels. AUX/pocket mod Now a mod "over there" ............Photo album |
#20
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod
Argh, I'm going to have to remove the CV axle. The bolt holding the lateral link in is 2 inches or so too long to clear the axle. I'm hoping I can just disconnect it from the differential, rather than completely removing it. Any suggestions on just disconnecting the inner end of the axle? Seems to me like I need to remove the CV boot, hammer out the spring pin, and then the axle should come off of the differential. I have a sneaky suspicion I'll have to disconnect at least one end of the lateral links to be able to do that, which means getting the long bolt that connects both lateral links to the hub assembly out of the hub assembly.
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#21
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod
There are no spring pins on the rear axles, they just pop out.
But I don't think you should need to disconnect the axle to get the links off. You would need to take off the links to get the axles off though.
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'94 Laguna Blue LSi ~159k.......JDM ultra short-geared 3.900 STi Version 7 6-speed w/ Cobb shortshifter, ECUtune 244,8.1mm/256,9.1mm i/e cams, group N motor mounts, '97 grille, JDM clear corners, Momo JDM Legacy GT steering wheel, apkarian's LED tails, silver STi BBS wheels, PWR radiator, redstuff pads f/r, drilled/slotted rotors, bontragerworks rsb #18, Koni/GC 450f/375r coilovers, Megan Racing adjustable lateral links, KMac c/c plates, Stebro exhaust, ECUtune 1v5, Optima battery in the trunk where it belongs. Turbo project '97 Ebony LSi ~137k #036.......Power mode mod, JDM clear corners, BBS wheels. AUX/pocket mod Now a mod "over there" ............Photo album |
#22
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod
The bolt at the inner end of the front lateral link won't come out in order for me to remove the inner end of the lateral link from the car. The bolt is a good 3 or 4 inches long, and I can only get it an inch or so out before it hits the axle.
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#23
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod
Ok well in that case, disconnect the outer end of the lateral links, then pop the axle out of the diff. It's held in with kind of a spring clip inside the diff; make sure they go back in correctly. The two axles are also a bit different, but they both do pop out. The left one I found more difficult.
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'94 Laguna Blue LSi ~159k.......JDM ultra short-geared 3.900 STi Version 7 6-speed w/ Cobb shortshifter, ECUtune 244,8.1mm/256,9.1mm i/e cams, group N motor mounts, '97 grille, JDM clear corners, Momo JDM Legacy GT steering wheel, apkarian's LED tails, silver STi BBS wheels, PWR radiator, redstuff pads f/r, drilled/slotted rotors, bontragerworks rsb #18, Koni/GC 450f/375r coilovers, Megan Racing adjustable lateral links, KMac c/c plates, Stebro exhaust, ECUtune 1v5, Optima battery in the trunk where it belongs. Turbo project '97 Ebony LSi ~137k #036.......Power mode mod, JDM clear corners, BBS wheels. AUX/pocket mod Now a mod "over there" ............Photo album |
#24
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod
Quote:
On second thought, I guess compressing the corner would tend to shift the wheel outward if the lat links is already partially disconnected. Or put stress on it and "pop" out when you do the that last bolt free.
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Dave - 03 Baja - 92 SVX - 86 Brat - 08 OB 3.0 |
#25
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod
Quote:
__________________
'94 Laguna Blue LSi ~159k.......JDM ultra short-geared 3.900 STi Version 7 6-speed w/ Cobb shortshifter, ECUtune 244,8.1mm/256,9.1mm i/e cams, group N motor mounts, '97 grille, JDM clear corners, Momo JDM Legacy GT steering wheel, apkarian's LED tails, silver STi BBS wheels, PWR radiator, redstuff pads f/r, drilled/slotted rotors, bontragerworks rsb #18, Koni/GC 450f/375r coilovers, Megan Racing adjustable lateral links, KMac c/c plates, Stebro exhaust, ECUtune 1v5, Optima battery in the trunk where it belongs. Turbo project '97 Ebony LSi ~137k #036.......Power mode mod, JDM clear corners, BBS wheels. AUX/pocket mod Now a mod "over there" ............Photo album |
#26
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod
Ahh, you found out that one of the bolt is just too long and the axle has to come out! I found out the same thing and ordered another bolt. My plan is to leave the axle intact in the diff and just cut the old bolt out, change out the arm and install a new bolt.....well, that's my theory anyway! I'm trying to avoid having to deal with the axle but that may not be too big of a deal. I wonder if gear oil will leak out if your remove the axle out of the diff?
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If it ain't broken it, doesn't have enough features!!! '92 SVX LSL '03 4Runner '96 FZJ80 Landcruiser '90 Mercedes 300E |
#27
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod
No it won't. The normal fill level is below the axle holes. If the diff is overfilled or tilted to the side it will leak out.
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Dave - 03 Baja - 92 SVX - 86 Brat - 08 OB 3.0 |
#28
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod
I changed the rear arm on mine without removing the axle....
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Chris 92 Ebony Mica LS-L "A Rolling Restoration": 223,250 KM - Sleeping 2007 STi 6MT, Stance GR+ coilovers, PWR Rad, JDM hood badge, svxfiles 6000K HIDs, JDM Clear Corners, $15/15 min mod, $20/20 min mod, Energy Swaybar Bushings, Hella Supertones horns, Gold STi BBS rims, Group A lightweight crank pulley, A/C system removed, Custom header-back exhaust, Hybrid carbon/metal rear sway bar, restored headlights with CCFL halos 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Diamond Grey Metallic - Sold 2020 Ram 1500 Longhorn - Red Pearl |
#29
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod
If you have to cut the old bolt to get it out, you'll have to cut the new bolt to get it in. Which won't work.
The rear bolt attaches differently than the front does, and you can get the bolt out without the axle being in the way. |
#30
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Re: Bent rear "toe-in" rod
When I backed this particular bolt out, it was obstructed by the CV boot. What is your secret in removing this bolt?
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If it ain't broken it, doesn't have enough features!!! '92 SVX LSL '03 4Runner '96 FZJ80 Landcruiser '90 Mercedes 300E |
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