Got the new temp sensor..still no start

[JWillysvx]

When I put the old temp sensor back in my cooling fans come on...as if the engine is hot. New sensor ...fans not running. I believe that problem is fixed, yet still no start. The car would not start well befor the temp sensor was replaced....

[MadMaxSvx]

One day it was running with a bad temp sensor and the next day it wont run with a new one? Or a lot of time passed since the last start when you replaced it?
You know, when a car is sitting for a while, sometimes the rings just get stuck, and the engine lacks compression.
Other thing can be the pulley in the crankshaft loose enough to sit in a wrong position and screw the timing. Just check if when the pulley mark is in the TDC, the nº1 piston is really on TOP.

[JWillysvx]

I put the new sensor in last week. That was the engine code from the ECU. The car hasn't started for a year now, I have some time on my hands to work on it. So if there is something bad, like the timing belt, I will have time to fix it.

[MadMaxSvx]

Originally Posted by JWillysvx

I put the new sensor in last week. That was the engine code from the ECU. The car hasn't started for a year now, I have some time on my hands to work on it. So if there is something bad, like the timing belt, I will have time to fix it.

A year.. then more likely your problem is stuck rings, do a compression test.

[SVXRide]

Whoa....as Trevor noted, apply a little logic here....

1. The engine turns over when you try to start it, right? (which rules out any stuck pistons...),

2. You've checked the connections around the temp sensor to make sure you didn't break/knock something loose (like the TPS connector) while removing/installing the new temp sensor and everything looks fine,

3. The engine does not start when spraying starter fluid into the TB (you were holding the throttle plates open while you sprayed and someone else tried to start the car, right?),

4. The engine doesn't even sound like it's going to start (i.e., no evidence of ignition in any of the cylinders),

5. You've "dangled" the O2 sensors and still more of the above

Okay, given you said yes to the above, proceed to the following:

1. Get a known working cam sensor and swap it with the one currently in your engine (front of the engine, driver's side)

2. If #1 doesn't work, do the same with the crank sensors (under the alternator)

3. If #2 doesn't work, check that the ignitor (on the firewall behind the TB) is getting power

That's it, for starters
-Bill

[MadMaxSvx]

Stuck rings!!

[SoCal LS-L]

Originally Posted by JWillysvx

Shot starting fluid directly into the plenum with the MAF unplugged.....nothing, not even a sputter Checked all the plugs, they are good. The no start problem has been a monkey on my back for months now, there has to be something simple I am over looking here

Originally--I parked it , shut it of then went to start...no start, tried to start on one or 2 cylinders but not enough to run.

Have spark, fuel...tomorrow I am going to pull a spark plug to check compression and spark timing.

TPS...throttle positioning sensor?

Try doing it thru one of the vacuum ports, you have to keep the MAF plugged in or it wont start even with starting fluid I think.

You have removed all the timing covers to verify valve timing at all 3 poiints simultaneously??

This really sounds quite like mine did when the timing jumped on the pass side cam.

Worst comes to worst, you may just have to start tracing voltage and resistance signals at the ECU harness.

[kwren]

Originally Posted by JWillysvx

When I put the old temp sensor back in my cooling fans come on...as if the engine is hot. New sensor ...fans not running. I believe that problem is fixed, yet still no start. The car would not start well befor the temp sensor was replaced....

but it would start...

Clearing the codes might be important.

then...

Pull of the new temp sensor one and put the old one back on and see what it does... for fun...

[JWillysvx]

First off: thanks for all the suggestions. I will try a few more tomorrow. Logically- fuel + spark + timing=combustion.

I have called around to all the salvage yards I could find in Michigan, 0 SVX's. A guy at the Subie dealer told me some one close by me has 4 SVX's, one he drives daily not sure the condition of the others. Wish I knew how to get a hold of him.I really don't want to purchase new sensors, I have asked before but here I go again; any one here have a few used sensors I could purchase?

Low posibilty on stuck rings, I shut the car off, 20 minutes later...no start.

[MadMaxSvx]

Originally Posted by JWillysvx

First off: thanks for all the suggestions. I will try a few more tomorrow. Logically- fuel + spark + timing=combustion.

I have called around to all the salvage yards I could find in Michigan, 0 SVX's. A guy at the Subie dealer told me some one close by me has 4 SVX's, one he drives daily not sure the condition of the others. Wish I knew how to get a hold of him.I really don't want to purchase new sensors, I have asked before but here I go again; any one here have a few used sensors I could purchase?

Low posibilty on stuck rings, I shut the car off, 20 minutes later...no start.

Oh, then check if, when the pulley mark is in the TDC, the nº1 piston is really on TOP.The half moon thingy wetween the crankshaft and the pulley can be broken.
If you have fuel + spark + timing + compression the engine must start.

[odepaj]

Exactly what spark plugs are in the car?

I had a similar problem a few years back with one of mine. I had spark, fuel, and the timing was perfect.

Turns out for some reason my car is picky about what plugs it gets. Even though I visually confirmed spark from all six plugs they weren't firing in the cylinder (I checked the gap aswell).

Had them swapped out with the proper NGK Iridiums and the car fired right up.

It seems I am the only person to date to have this issue, but it never hurts to check.

Good luck!





Dustin

[JWillysvx]

I put NGK platinum plugs, The engine was acting odd before the "no start" condition. The check engine light was on, the motor ran as if the timing was retarded. Then the light would shut off, the engine would have full power and run fine. Parked her, hour or so later "no start" and here we are.

I still have a few suggestions to try out this week......haven't " dangled " the 02 sensors yet, I will double check the timing belt ( that is what it seems like to me)

[SoCal LS-L]

I have a good condition MAF sensor I can let go for $60 plus shipping, but I would think that would have kicked a code if it were bad.

At this stage, you NEED to go get a $20 wal-mart multimeter and start checking voltages and resistances on sensors and components, it goes a lonnnnng way believe me, before you go dropping cash on new unneeded parts.

Have you pulled and cleaned the tips of your 3 cam n crank sensors? They tend to build up crap on the ends so thats worth a shot too.

The service manual in my signature includes specs for resistance checking sensors, and a flow chart for diagnosing no-start conditions.

[SVXRide]

Originally Posted by SoCal LS-L

I have a good condition MAF sensor I can let go for $60 plus shipping, but I would think that would have kicked a code if it were bad.

At this stage, you NEED to go get a $20 wal-mart multimeter and start checking voltages and resistances on sensors and components, it goes a lonnnnng way believe me, before you go dropping cash on new unneeded parts.

Have you pulled and cleaned the tips of your 3 cam n crank sensors? They tend to build up crap on the ends so thats worth a shot too.

The service manual in my signature includes specs for resistance checking sensors, and a flow chart for diagnosing no-start conditions.

Yep, see my earlier post....
-Bill

[JWillysvx]

We have had a lot of snow up here! I will get a volt meter, not sure what the voltages are for all the sensors.