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  #1  
Old 01-04-2008, 10:05 PM
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MT swap, does it really do this?

i was reading somewhere that someone did a swap and said now they feel like the power ratio is more 50/50. is this true? i wanted to do a swap sometime and if this is true id be even more willing to do this swap. also, does it affect anything else such as top speed, etc? if a swap really would make the power distribution more equal then i want to do the swap sooner, a coworker of mine drove her brothers forester to work a few days ago, we park in unplowed snow on a slight hill and when we went to leave she took off no problem watsoever, so i parked in the same spot as her to compare and i didnt get out quite as easily, no problem, but not as easily, and after reading about someone feeling like its more 50/50 i decided to ask, so thanks for any input!
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  #2  
Old 01-04-2008, 10:08 PM
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It feels more like 50/50 because it IS 50/50. The 6MT is 35f/65r.
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  #3  
Old 01-04-2008, 10:23 PM
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the factory automatic varies in tourque split from *arguably* 90(f) / 10(r) to 50/50. the 5mt is a fixed ratio at 50/50 (Correct me if Im wrong) while the 6mt is at 65(r)/35(f) when it ISNT hooked up to a dccd controller

Torque split aside, the 5mt give you better weight distribution (It's MUCH lighter than the auto) and makes the car they way it SHOULD have been from the factory
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by It's Just Eric View Post
the factory automatic varies in tourque split from *arguably* 90(f) / 10(r) to 50/50. the 5mt is a fixed ratio at 50/50 (Correct me if Im wrong) while the 6mt is at 65(r)/35(f) when it ISNT hooked up to a dccd controller

Torque split aside, the 5mt give you better weight distribution (It's MUCH lighter than the auto) and makes the car they way it SHOULD have been from the factory
Im pretty sure the 5mt is rear-biased aswell. It is possible to lock the 4EAT in 50/50 but its not good because then you get alot of binding while turning, how would the 5mt be any different here if it is also 50/50?


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  #5  
Old 01-04-2008, 11:02 PM
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The 4eat binding occurs in the center transfer clutch. The variability of the clutch allows for this problem as an offset for the gains provided by the variability.
The 5mt, with no variability, or the 6mt with manually selected non-variable options, won't bind because it is designed not to, though the 6mt might with the cd locked, hence the option.

I guess this is just a silly way of saying the transmissions are different.
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Old 01-05-2008, 12:15 AM
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ok, well thanks everyone! so i guess the 5mt is the way to go for the most even distribution? i wouldnt mind a little more kick in the back than in the front and an extra gear, but the 5mt is probably cheaper and less things to worry about? am i correct? i just want the power distribution to be better than what it is, and either the 5mt or 6mt are gonna do the trick, which should i go with though? i want the best performance for the buck. thanks!
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  #7  
Old 01-05-2008, 10:22 AM
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5MT = As cheap as you want it to be, really, lightweight, lots of choice. Good choice for daily driver/fun car stuff.

6MT = EXPENSIVE, as near to indestructable as any tranny Subaru's ever made. Good choice for anyone doing major engine mods, craving rear wheel bias, or needing the ego boost of having 6 gears
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  #8  
Old 01-05-2008, 05:35 PM
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i was thinking today, and if you take a tranny from another subaru wont the svx just eat it. i mean all other subbys are smaller engines, can those trannys really handle that power? i dont wanna swap trannys just to have it fail on me, my tranny really isnt bad, seems to do just fine, i just want the 50/50 and the control of the rpms, etc. also, someone was talking about having to change the rear diff gears, is this necessary and if so why? and wouldnt it make the back wheels spin faster or slower than the front? just some things i wanna clarify for myself thanks!!
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Old 01-05-2008, 06:47 PM
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Any tranny will fail if treated improperly. The only thing worth considering when trans shopping for the SVX is what kind of driving you do. Highway, city, track, or ... ?
Small gears, tall gears, manual or auto? What do you want?

Strength is irrelevant if you drive in a reserved manner and maintain the vehicle.

-
The rear diff will spin only as fast as it can spin. Swapping it out is necessary due to fitment/compatibility issues.
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  #10  
Old 01-05-2008, 07:03 PM
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my driving is mostly highway, some city, i wouldnt be doing anything hard, but i would like to keep the top speed where it is if possible, or higher, not that it would ever be going that fast, cough cough haha. just something good all around, probably a 5mt.

also im still not clear on the diff. why would those gears matter? and if you change the rear wont you have to change the front too? the trans gears and the diff gears are seperate, so what needs to be compatible? and how come only the rear needs to be?
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Old 01-05-2008, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLHollowX13 View Post
i would like to keep the top speed where it is if possible, or higher,
It isn't, unless you keep the stock trans. Theoretically, ofcourse. I don't think you'd notice your top end is gone unless you get 4.44s and punch it on a long empty stretch.

The trans and the front diff gears are seperate yes, but they are IN the trans, so when you swap you trans, you'll need the matching rear diff.

The WRX trans already matches the stock R160 rear diff. The STI trans needs the R180.
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  #12  
Old 01-05-2008, 10:39 PM
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diffrent transmissiosns have diffent final drive ratios. for example, an older legacy 5 speed will most likely have a 4.11 final drive, raher than the stock 3.54 The rear diffrerential has to be matched as well. the newer wrx transmissions have the same* final drive ratio as the svx, so no rear work is needed.
What most people do, unless they are swapping in the r180 rear, is to take the ring gear from a donor differential with the same final drive as the trans going in, and swap it into the svx's limited slip rear

*Note, things get confusing whenreduction gears are thrown into the mix, where the trans will hav a final drive of 3.90, but have a 1.1-1 reduction gear for a diffrent final drive at the rear output shaft, leading in the 3.54 final drive for the rear differential to compensate. Dont ask why just nod and smile*
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  #13  
Old 01-05-2008, 11:19 PM
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Kind of off topic, but...

What automatics can be swapped in for more aggressive gearing without changing the rear diff? I like my DD to be an automatic and I don't want to get that much worse of mileage, but I would like the car to have a tad more "get up and go," if you know what I mean.

I'd like crusing rpms at 60 mph to stay at or under 2500 rpm. Any suggestions?
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  #14  
Old 01-06-2008, 08:27 AM
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gas mileage does not suffer terribly from an auto change w/ a different final drive.


As for the 5mt... They are all 50/50 splits with an open center diff unless you are using an older trans that may have a center diff locker. The best 5mt to get if you want durability, top speed, and want to keep the stock rear diff is an 04+ wrx transmission. These have a lower gear ratio for lower rpms on the high way, they use the stock rear diff AND they are about as strong as OE 5mt's get when it comes to Subaru... SO that would be my choice

Tom
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  #15  
Old 01-06-2008, 09:10 AM
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If you want to get exotic you can get '07 gears into an 05 sti 5MT for that extra get up & go.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1276015
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