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  #16  
Old 08-14-2007, 05:33 PM
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leak

a little oil in the coolant and pressure in the radiator. No external leak and no coolant in the oil.
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  #17  
Old 08-15-2007, 01:52 PM
cdigerlando cdigerlando is offline
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????

Quote:
Originally Posted by tom00799
a little oil in the coolant and pressure in the radiator. No external leak and no coolant in the oil.
Well you could reinstall the head gasket. Its probably worth a try. If you break down the entire motor you should definitely magnaflux the block and heads to check for cracks. You could also see what happens with some of these other builds prior to breaking everything down to see if this is a common problem. Do you have any time constraints?
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  #18  
Old 08-15-2007, 04:55 PM
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head gaskets

No real time constraints but I would like to get the car back together before halloween. That's usually the first trip to the sand dunes for the season. I do have a new mid-engine v8 car that I'm planning to take in lieu of the subby so there's no shortage of cars. I've been fighting the head gasket issue for eight years now. I've never had a perfectly sealed engine. This last build was the first true test of the cometics. They held up perfect until the last day. I'm not sure what to do at this stage. I don't know of anyone else tht has ran one of the motors over 17 psi without problems. I'm trying to get ARP to build a couple sets of larger studs. I will try to see if I can't get someone to figure out how they were able to sell me a kit with 11mm studs without a part number. I will try to see if I can't get them to come up with something for the rest of you guys. P.S. the part number for the longer bolts is 260-4701. I'm not sure if there is a part number for the shorter bolts. I bet Redline is the orignal customer for the SVX. Stay tuned.
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  #19  
Old 08-15-2007, 05:05 PM
cdigerlando cdigerlando is offline
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Bolts

Quote:
Originally Posted by tom00799
No real time constraints but I would like to get the car back together before halloween. That's usually the first trip to the sand dunes for the season. I do have a new mid-engine v8 car that I'm planning to take in lieu of the subby so there's no shortage of cars. I've been fighting the head gasket issue for eight years now. I've never had a perfectly sealed engine. This last build was the first true test of the cometics. They held up perfect until the last day. I'm not sure what to do at this stage. I don't know of anyone else tht has ran one of the motors over 17 psi without problems. I'm trying to get ARP to build a couple sets of larger studs. I will try to see if I can't get someone to figure out how they were able to sell me a kit with 11mm studs without a part number. I will try to see if I can't get them to come up with something for the rest of you guys. P.S. the part number for the longer bolts is 260-4701. I'm not sure if there is a part number for the shorter bolts. I bet Redline is the orignal customer for the SVX. Stay tuned.
I have not heard from Mike yet, but if he decides to go to Inconel bolts or studs that will be much better than the standard ARP2000 Studs. I'm going to e-mail you those graphs in a minute so check it out.
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  #20  
Old 08-17-2007, 08:21 AM
cdigerlando cdigerlando is offline
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Head Studs

Apparently ARP is not pulling through for Mike. At least not at a price that anyone can afford. I'm going to look into having these things made. ARP's prices are rediculous. Hopefully the new Tom can find out something too. Cobb tuning mentioned he will be building a couple of motors as well so perhaps that is a route we can take. It would be good to know at this point how many folks are interested in studs and how much they would be willing to pay as a cap. I will not be profiting from this so I will try to keep the prices much lower than any cap we might have. In light of the info that new Tom raised, I will look at even stronger materials than ARP2000. Probably inconel or titanium (if I can find some cheap surplus). I will also consider the 14 mm route. It all depends on what I can obtain cheaply as stock material. I may go through ARP for nuts still. It also depends on what I can find cheaply. Hopefully new Tom will try on his end too to see what is available.

Chuck D.
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  #21  
Old 08-17-2007, 08:48 AM
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Stud Info.

Tom:

Do you know the exact length of the studs that you were using? I'm assuming they utilize a 1/2" tall standard ARP nut and a 4 mm washer. I'm really interested to know what worked for you in this application before I have a shop start cutting stock.
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  #22  
Old 08-18-2007, 06:51 AM
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stud length

the tall stauds are 195mm abd the short ones are 172mm (6.75 inches). If you have fax number I'll fax you a photocopy of the bolts, nuts and washers on monday.
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  #23  
Old 08-18-2007, 09:55 AM
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Studs??

Quote:
Originally Posted by tom00799
the tall stauds are 195mm abd the short ones are 172mm (6.75 inches). If you have fax number I'll fax you a photocopy of the bolts, nuts and washers on monday.
Thanks but the measurments should be fine. Thats about 0.43" shorter than expected for the short bolts and about 0.47" shorter than expected for the long studs. Hmmm. Do you hand tighten the studs all the way down to the bottom of the block? How much sticks up above the nut? About how tall is the ARP nut and washer?
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  #24  
Old 08-18-2007, 02:56 PM
cdigerlando cdigerlando is offline
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Arp

This discussion probably belongs back under the built motor section. Mike just replied to your last post in there. I'm getting confused.
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  #25  
Old 08-18-2007, 06:52 PM
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Arp

The nuts are 1/2" and the washers are 1/8". Here's a few pics of the bolts and nuts as assembled. Yes, you install the studs finger tight.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P1010065.JPG (575.0 KB, 154 views)
File Type: jpg P1010068.JPG (559.7 KB, 142 views)
File Type: jpg P1010070.JPG (623.6 KB, 149 views)
File Type: jpg P1010072.JPG (626.7 KB, 137 views)
File Type: jpg P1010073.JPG (620.3 KB, 139 views)
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  #26  
Old 08-18-2007, 06:59 PM
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Cometics need correction

Some thing else I thought I should point out with the comectics. The rivets on one end of the head will interfere with the plastic cam belt housing. I notched my plastic to get around the problem. The fix is easy for Cometic as they need simply need to move the rivet location. I'm not sure if the newer gaskets have resolved this. If may contact Cometic if I decide to use them again on this build.
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File Type: jpg P1010074.JPG (641.0 KB, 146 views)
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  #27  
Old 08-18-2007, 07:34 PM
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More info for Chuck

In response to your post in the engine build section (I know its getting confusing bouncing around), the bolts measure right at 100mm from the deck to the bottom of the head bolt bore on the block. The long bolts protrude 95mm from the deck and the short bolts about 72mm from the deck, hence long bolt measurement of 195mm and short bolt measurement of 172mm or so. The bolts bottom out at the end of the hole and that's probably why the studs have the bullet nose on them. Remember, the washer/nut bed in the cylinder is stepped down on the outer head bolts on the svx. Why, I'm not sure as the four bangers have the same cam gear set up. The ARP set-up is dead bang on the mark, and the smooth mesh of the nuts on the studs beats the hell out of the stock bolts which chatter and bind as you install them. That noise makes you feel like your filings are going to fall out and you feel like the threads are going to strip at any moment. Plus you can torque the studs to 72 ft pounds. Hope this helps.
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  #28  
Old 08-18-2007, 07:39 PM
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pics

here's the pics of the lengths above the deck
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P1010081.JPG (670.1 KB, 152 views)
File Type: jpg P1010085.JPG (657.0 KB, 142 views)
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  #29  
Old 08-18-2007, 08:53 PM
cdigerlando cdigerlando is offline
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Measurments

Quote:
Originally Posted by tom00799
here's the pics of the lengths above the deck
Something is not adding up, but hey they work. I'll send you an e-mail with my measurements. While I'm at it I'll send you the bottom end assembly stuff I have PDFed. Any chance in getting a few of these kits from your supplier Outback Motorsports?
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  #30  
Old 09-02-2007, 02:02 PM
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closed deck build-up

first the water jacket surface is roughed up with a dremmel wheel
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