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#1
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Window tint removal tips?
Well, it's a chore I need to tackle on the silver. Do I just peel-back a corner, take ahold of it and yank?
On second thought, maybe I'll wait for cooler weather. Master Procrastinator here. dcb |
#2
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When I had tint installed on one of my vehicles... the installer stated that I shouldnt use amonia based cleaners, as it breaks down the glue...
just a thought.
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Chris SVX World Network Administrator -1993 Subaru SVX LS-L, Barcelona Red, #46, 160,000+ Miles (Sold to SomethingElse) -2011 Toyota Sienna SE, Black, 30,000+ Miles (Swagger Wagon ) -2002 BMW R 1150R ABS, Black, 26,000+ Miles (Daily Driver ) SVX Owner from February 1997 to March 2008 SVX Online Community Member since February 1998 SVX World Network Member since February 2002, Member #520 Life is a game. Play to win. The world belongs to those who can laugh at it. |
#4
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Try to do as much as you can yourself.
But I would take it to a professional tint installer to have the back windowtint removed. It is somewhat awkward to get to and if you are not careful you could damage the rear window defroster wires. They have the experience and equipment to do it safely.
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. Subaru Ambassador 1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995..... Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan In-Service Date: January 2, 1997 "The Pristine Green Polo Machine” First Polo Green on the Network First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000) First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007) First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013) HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler. R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016 2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback 2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles. Plenty of parts, service and windshields. 4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001 My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX . . |
#5
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Quote:
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
#6
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hey, here is how you remove it, on the side windows use a razor to get the tint off, on the rear window use a razor and a heat gun, dont touch the lines with the razor, just use it to get the tint to start to peel and use the heat gun is used to soffen the tint so it will peal easyer. once you are done geting the tint off (the easy part) then it comes to that glue....use adheasive remover you can buy the good stuff shops use on ebay. use that with a razor on the sides and use a plastic razor on the rear..........or you can go to the tint place to get it removed....it normaly runs more to have it removed then installed
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#7
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Don't do that, for the sides use a razor and 90% isopropyl to get rid of the residue. But for the rear, you need to do it on a hot sunny day... You will need; - Spray bottle with ammonia - Lots of newspapers - Black plastic garbage bag - Plastic putty knife/scraper 1. Cut open the garbage bag and trim so that it is about the same shape and size as the interior of the glass. 2. spread the newspapers over the rear deck and seats 3. Spray the ammonia all over the tint/rear window 4. While the window is still wet with ammonia, push the black bag up against so that the moisture causes the bag to kling 5. Shut the car and leave it set in the sun and leave the ammonia and bag get nice and warm and juicy. 6. Open the doors/windows, hold your breath and use the plastic scraper to remove the film. 7. If it doesn't release, go back to #3
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Dave - 03 Baja - 92 SVX - 86 Brat - 08 OB 3.0 |
#8
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Quote:
Thanks for the tips, guys. dcb |
#9
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Windex is plenty good enough. The active component is ammonia.
I've removed it, from numerous cars, (used to do tinting as a way to pay the bills while in school). Peel a corner back and peel the sheet(s) off slow or fast, really makes no difference. The tint will not pull off the defrost lines on the back window. Once you get it all off, coat the inside of the glass with Windex and let it sit for a minute or two. The key is to keep it wet for a couple minutes while the ammonia breaks down the adhesive. A garage is good for retarding evaporation. Now, use a straight razor blade to scrape the glue off the glass. Presto! No muss...no fuss. Don't scrap the back glass with a metal blade! You will cut the defrost lines. Use a bondo blade or better yet, just wipe away with a paper towel. Good luck! |
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