Beginning of Power Steering Rack Removal

[SVXMAN2001]

So i decided to take on the power steering rack removal job. I have the factory manuals and after reading them have instilled enough confidence for me to try and do the job myself.

The only problems i've come across so far are that when i am trying to remove the front portion of the exhaust the bolts are very rusty and simply won't break free. I was thinking of purchasing some power tools to alleviate the frustration of straining to remove bolts. My other reason for getting the power tools is because when i am pulling on the bolts with a socket wrench the car is moving somewhat...this is very frigthening especially when the car is on jack stands!!!

The other problem/issue i've had is with removing the tie rods. I know i need a tie rod puller, but is there a special tool to remove the castle nut atop the ball joint? I used a regular socket and the nut moved, i just wasn't sure if there was a special tool i should be using. I was worried i would be stripping the nut.

And lastly the manuals advise scribing alignment marks in the steering knuckle (not sure of the technical name) I was a bit confused of where to scribe the marks and what not...any advice?

I plan on writing up a complete how to once i complete the job, i'll keep you all posted...Chris

[alia176]

Chris,

This job is an interesting one! Meaning, it's not overly difficult. I recall having to remove the axle, on the driver side at the transaxle if memory serves. I think this is a good time to invest in some pneumatic tools Having a 3/8" impact was very handy at removing exhaust hardware. Also, I'd recommend that you change the donuts at where the front exhaust comes together to the rear system, just after the cats. While loosening the exhaust nuts, you may unintentionally, remove the exhaust studs. This is normal. I normally replace these studs as a matter of normal maintenance if they aren't in good shape. I used a stud removal set to install the new studs. Similar to these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=5237

Removal of the tie rod ends can be accomplished in several destructive ways. However, for a non destructive approach, use a smaller Pitman arm puller or a tie rod puller. You can rent these from Autozone and see which one works best. Using the pickle forks can ruin the rubber boots.

Be sure to count how many threads are exposed on each tie rod end so that you can come close on the new steering rack. You should still get an alignment done after this project just to be sure. The castle nuts can be removed using a simple socket.

Do the best you can to drain all PS fluid out of the system. Also, the O2 sensors need to be disconnected from the exhaust pipe and moved out of the way. Try to keep the sensors as clean as possible.

This is also a good time replace some of the PS hoses and clamps.

I had my rack rebuilt at a local shop for around $100 or so. So far so good and I have no leaks.

Good luck.

Ali
'92

[SVXMAN2001]

Ali,
Thanks for the pointers!! Yeah they advise removing the left front axle for easier maneuverability. I find that interesting that you had your rack rebuilt so cheap. I was looking at a brand new one to the tune of $700. Its at least worth looking around to see what's available with that price difference!!

Did you know what knuckle part i am talking about that connects to the rack? And hte alignment marks? The factory manuals really stress properly scribing marks as it can have catastrophic consequences or so the manuals seem to allude to.

Chris

[alia176]

Chris,

No problemo. I can't recall the scribe mark you're referring to. I'm not at home this week so I can't flip to that page. If you want, scan and email me the page and we'll discuss it further. Going by memory (which is not the greatest), the steering knuckle is attached to the tie rod end. I didn't have to remove the knuckle from the vehicle at all. Maybe this is the step you're referring to. If you had to remove the knuckle from the vehicle, then you'd definitely have to scribe everything in order to go back to the proper camber specs. Maybe that's what the manual is saying and I didn't do in order to save time and further headache!

As far as rebuilding racks, this isn't rocket science and many shops can perform this service. Of course nothing beats the quality of OEM parts but the price point is a big factor for most of us. Also, this is a good time to replace your tie rod ends too if you're so inclined.


I hope this helps.

Ali

[Earthworm]

Heat works wonders when removing rusty exhaust nuts.